TN: Italian Wine Journey of a Bordeaux Man

[sdr]

• 2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (1/16/2010)
  Another clear success. Although just a baby, these Giacosa Barbarescos give plenty of pleasure already. Medium crimson red; modest nose of cherry and earth. Slightly coarse texture which seems to be a characteristic of the Santo Stefano site. But the flavor is excellent, fruity and earthy in equal parts. This has the personality of nebbiola which is an excellent foil for Italian cuisine whether traditional or modern. Surprisingly layered for age six and I'm sure it will become more interesting over the next decade or two, but it's just fine right now. (91 pts.)
• 2004 Tenuta Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Bolgheri Superiore - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore (1/10/2010)
  Rather impressive with a bit more bottle age. It's powerful, full throttle Cabernet Sauvignon that could easily be taken for a good California version with the oak completely in check. Really quite good but nothing Italian about it. (90 pts.)
• 2006 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (1/9/2010)
  I did this one for Greg blind and he guessed it was a Priorat. This new release is still showing a lot of new oak (vanilla and toast and creamy texture), so it's hard to see the sangiovese underneath. But based on the development of te 2004, I'm confident this vintage will be a great success as well. There's no doubt about the impressive concentration of black fruit, but it is somewhat anonymous at this early stage. (90 pts.)
• 2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (1/2/2010)
  Astounding brillialliance in Barbaresco. As good as the '01 Asili and Santo Stefano were, the Rabaja Riserva was a clear notch up. Somehow combining the best attributes of both (the power and energy of the Santo Stefano and then delicatre elegance of the Asili) and adding new notes of balsamic and brown sugar. I had no idea young Barbaresco could be this luscious. No need to wait; this is fabulous now. (97 pts.)
• 2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (1/2/2010)
  Superbly elegant Barbaresco with a flat out beautiful nose of strawberry and light cherry. Soft and velvety on the palate and lingerting on the cool, fruity finish. It is generous and pretty at age 8 or 9. The tannins are integrated with the bright fruit. Obviously a treat to drink now. The polar opposite in Barbaresco to the '01 Giacosa Santo Strefano we compared it to. (93 pts.)
• 2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (1/2/2010)
  Interesting, unapologeticly traditional Barbaraesco from the master. Relatively modest in color; bricky edge. Meaty and earthy aromas introduce a powerful young wine with somewhat coarse tannins. Perfect for a cold night with traidtional Italian food. I wonder if this wine will become smoother in years to come. (90 pts.)
• 1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/2/2010)
  This bottle was a good start to our all-Italian wine dinner at Osteria del Teatro. Big and burly, "masculine," uncompromisingly traditional. Some cherry could be coaxed from the nose and felt in the mouth. The tannins were coarse but not overpowering, probably due to bottle age and the relatively modest vintage. This wine is about muscle, not complexity and it resembles no wine from France, California or Spain. (88 pts.)
• 1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/8/2009)
  This Barolo was showing very well at age 14. Nicely fragrant with notes of cherry and strawberry and very approachable on the palate. The tannins were subdued but the balance was excellent and I would judge it just about ready now. There's a hint of fig flavor as well. Smooth in Barolo terms and easy to underdstand and easy to like. The intensity is not there for "great" but the complexity more than compensates. (92 pts.)
• 1997 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella (12/8/2009)
  My first ever taste of Amarone, from an excellent producer and vintage. I had feared it would taste like sweet raison juice but it was not so. Instead, although there was definitely a very distinctive note of date and fig, there was enough else going on to make it really quite interresting. Full bodied but not too tannic and very good acidity provided the frame it needed. I would most definitely like to try some more examples of this unique wine. (90 pts.)
• 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/8/2009)
  Very difficult to get a feel for this wine. It had been decanted at home for 10 hours but that was probably not enough. Medium deep ruby in color. Just a hint of black fruit on the nose and very closed on the palate. Even a couple more hours in the glass did nothing to open this stubbornly tight nebbiolo. I could sense the concentration so I expect it will blossom mightily in 5 - 10 years but for now it it all about the potential. (90 pts.)
• 1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/8/2009)
  Very pleasant indeed and my first experience with a fully mature Barbaraesco. Delicate but a lovely aroma of strawberry and Maraschino cherry is inviting. On the palate, it's as light and soft as the nose suggests and the tannins have essentially melted away. Fortunately, there's adequate acidity to give it a much needed bit of lift and structure. I'm not sure I would peg this as nebbiolo; instead I would guess a successful pinot noir from the Cote de Beaune. (89 pts.)
• 1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/8/2009)
  Others may like this more than me, but although not flawed, the overpowering one dimensional note of liquid asphalt on both nose and palate was not pleasant. It's powerful and bold, but I can't imagine what food would complement this flavor. Too much "tar" and not enough "roses." (85 pts.)
• 1980 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina di Neive - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/8/2009)
  Barry was hoping to impress us with this old Giacosa from an off year which had pleased him in the past. There was a very singular potent smell at first, something like gravel and licorice but over the next ten minutes it became clear the bottle was corked and undrinkable. NR (flawed)
• 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11/1/2009)
  Sureky excellent but still holding back much in reserve, especially when compared side-by-side with the '01 Rabaja Riserva. Even though decanted many hours in advance by Greg, it took a couple more hours before it slowing gave off some cherry and what Brian called "balloon." Medium full, distinctive and interesting but clearly in an awkward state. (90 pts.)
• 2001 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/1/2009)
  The '01 vintage seems to be a clear success in the Piedmont based on my limited tastings. This Barolo was powerful and enjoyable but for the first hour much too oaky and anonymous. But by the end of the evening, some damp dark soil and black licorice peeked out so maybe with enough bottle age the true character of its origin will prevail. (89 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

[Ramon_NYC]

Stuart,

Wow, I really like with your way of “dabbling into Italian wines lately”. The quality and breadth are impressive. Thanks for the terrific notes. I had tasted very few Giacosas and they are mostly on the young side. Looks like you’re a fan. I’ve not had one, but would almost expect that the 2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja would need many cellar years to come around. But what do I know? I’m still trying to figure out the difference between those the very pricy red labels and the whites.

You're lowest score for the 2001's was with the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis. Slightly on the modern side?

[Comte Flaneur]

Thanks for your captivating notes Stuart. An Italian wine lovers dream to taste all those Giacosas.

I have some of these - mainly 96s - but stopped buying quite a long time ago as they became very pricey. The straight 1995 Stafano is a very decent drop of barbaresco too.

Ramon I asked the same question to a guy in the trade called Mark Golodetz at Jacques's pool party. His answer was succint and to the point: "one hundred dollars" - the red(ish-brown) ones are a hundred more than the white ones.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Excellent notes. Makes you want to run out and drink barbaresco as soon as humanly possible.