2002 Burgundy dinner

[Comte Flaneur]

Two tables of nine people, on Thursday at Noize restaurant in the Fitzrovia district of central London.

Some great successes on our table and a disappointing night with many duds on the other table.

Our table was rapturous, the other table mutinous. When we started to pour the left overs from our three-quarter empty bottles, we were heckled by the other table. If we had not conceded some samples the mood could have turned ugly.

My notes pertain to our table:

2002 Fevre Chablis Les Clos - lush, ripe, creamy, aged, with tropical notes and butterscotch - beautiful but getting towards the end of its life - 93

2002 Raveneau Chablis Les Clos - this otoh still has plenty of time in hand, a bit more structure and intensity here with the trademark wet wool and a glorious finish - 95


2002 Maume Gevrey Champeaux - signature old school Maume, with beefy, horsey, sauvage, notes, it is drinking well and enjoyable but does become a bit attenuated over the night - 91

2002 Jadot Gevrey Clos St Jacques - a creditable rendition of CSJ, with attractive red fruits, resolution, delineation and balance, with some nice spicey notes. This bottle annoyingly suffered from being too warm. At the right temperature it might have been a point or two higher. - 92

2002 Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos de Beze - brooding, powerful and structured, it was difficult to coax in the Bordeaux glass last night - indeed blind you might have confused this for a Bordeaux - but it has a lot of stuffing and potential. You would automatically think ‘come back in five years’ but in a proper large burg glass, or a Sensory Conterno, it is transformed. 92+ on the night with upside potential.


2002 Jean Tardy NSG Boudots - this was superb, with perfect ripeness, balance and structure. Not an exciting address or name but this really delivered last night. A travesty that it was the only wine not to register any votes with the scores of the doors. 93

2002 Grivot NSG Boudots - a similar wine to the Tardy - same vineyard - it took a bit longer to come round but when it did it displayed an extra layer of complexity. Compelling. 94

2002 Chevillon NSG Vaucrains - it just kept on getting better. What can you say about this exceptional sensual, dark fruited, meaty, complex and multi-faceted wine apart from that it is grand cru quality? My wotn, group runner up - 95

2002 Mugneret-Gibourg Chaignots - Dan pulled this rabbit out of the hat and another sensational wine with a beguiling spicey-nutmeg attack with a seamless palate and personality. A more feminine creature than its masculine flight mates, and a sheer delight - what a superb flight! 95


2002 Arnoux Clos Vougeot - my notes became a bit diffuse at this point. There are a lot of moving parts in this wine but it is a bit clunky right now and yet to come together. It has good potential. Come back in 5-10 years. 92+

2002 Arnoux Romanee Saint Vivant - in a similar state of evolution to the CV, the RSV nevertheless dwells in a more celestial plane. It is rich, spicey and brooding, and only at this stage showing us a glimpse of its hidden pleasures. 95+

[JoelD]

Sounds like a wonderful tasting. That definitely sucks about the other table. Do you often set the tastings up this way? We rarely do, only at very large events.

I'm a big fan of 02 both for whites and reds. That 02 Grivot sounds fabulous. I would love to try a vintage with more age like that. The 11 and 12 have both been stellar lately.

Hoping my 750 and Mag of 02 Jadot CSJ show a little better at the right temp though! Wouldn't be surprised if they need more time. Especially the mag. Did this bottle seem ready to go?

[stefan]

Some great wine dinners you have had recently, Ian!

Gosh, I wish I had bought a lot more Chevillon NSG 1er Crus back when they were modestly priced. You make me consider sucking it up and pay Grand Cru prices to backfill.

[robert goulet]

Great stuff....2002 and 1996 are my current favorite burg vintages