2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

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Comte Flaneur
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2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Flight one - right bank - Magdelaine vs L’Eglise Clinet

Ch. Magdelaine navigates difficult vintages with aplomb, and this was the case with the 2002. This was telling because next to the L’Eglise Clinet it was clear that a lot of effort was undertaken in the cellar to transform the Pomerol into something that it inherently is not. I could still gladly drink this wine, whilst cognisant of its shortcomings. But using a swimming analogy it was making a lot of splashing and not going very fast while the Magdelaine was swimming serenely and pulling away effortlessly.

Flight two - Graves/Margaux - DDC vs Haut-Bailly vs Rauzan Segla

The DDC 2002 was an outstanding bottle - very Gravesy with scorched earth and those warm red roof tiles that is the leitmotiv of many a fine bottle of Graves. This bottle was ‘a point’. This may have been the last vintage before the winemaking changed to a more anonymous internationalised style, but of the recent vintages of DDC rouge I have tried this was super, as good as the 1996, and at least as good as the 1998. The Haut-Bailly was less overtly gravesy and in fact an introvert of a wine by comparison, but quietly classy at the same time. This particular bottle of Rauzan was a bit weird, I thought with swimming pool aromas but I don’t think it was flawed. Looking at my Cellartracker notes the last time we had this wine at such an event it showed better.

Flight three - St Julien - Ducru vs Leoville Barton vs Leoville Poyferre

The Ducru was the outstanding wine last night in my opinion. It is everything you look for in a classic claret with the hallmarks being restraint and perfect equilibrium. This is now in the perfect place aged 20, because it has plenty of evolution and complexity but maintains a grippy youthful vibrancy. In a strong field it had that extra bit of class. The Leoville Barton is a stalwart and the benchmark of this vintage. Even though I only got some of the dregs, that was again apparent last night. It has a bit more heft than the Ducru. I loved the Poyferre too, but it was in a looser knit format than its flight mates and clearly matured much faster. It’s hallmark is black pastille fruit, a lovely wine. A suggestion of TCA? Perhaps but I really liked this. If you have any drink them sooner rather than later.

Flight four - Pauillac - Lynch Bages vs Pichon Baron vs Pontet Canet

The St-J flight was a hard act to follow and so it proved. I had been quite meticulous about the line up and the group kindly indulged me. I wanted to match Lynch Bages up against Pichon Baron, expecting these two to be strong contenders for podium places when the votes were cast. The Lynch was quite classical claret but a bit awkward and clunky at the same time. It had a nice leafy Cabernet aspect but was a bit too heavy handed. The Baron had a text book Pauillac entry but lacked the energy of previous bottles. This is a wine that has been drinking very well for more than a decade so it may have been a combination of the heat and being open too long.

Neil Holland did a masterful job in keeping the wines at the right temperature with adroit use of the ice buckets, but rapid changes in temperature are probably not ideal for these wines…they heat up very fast even with the airco on and then get plunged into an ice bucket, which might impart some kind of a shock. The Pontet Canet emerged as the star of this flight. It showed beautifully and had more precision and finesse than the Lynch and more energy and pizazz than the Baron. The Coutet 2001 to finish, served from two half bottles, was a treat as always one of the most under-appreciated wines from Sauternes and Barsac.

What to make of all this? Well I would say this tasting confirms that 2002 has been a classical but relatively early maturing vintage, hence a very useful one. I can’t really think of many 2002s that would repay keeping but of the FGs I have only tried Haut-Brion recently and that is definitely in its drinking window.

In the methode comteflaneuse voting it was a three way contest between Barton, Ducru and the DDC which emerged a narrow winner.
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Nicklasss
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by Nicklasss »

Very nice tasting and report.

I don't think i had a lot of 2002, I'll have to check back. I remember Smith Haut Laffite and Mouton Rothschild (Jim brought a bottle in Charlotte in 2016, to enjoy with Rob/Susan and me), and i have great memories of both.

I don't know how long we will have to wait the 2010 or 2018, when the 2002 taste like that at 20 yo...
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Nicklasss
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by Nicklasss »

Oh I'm wrong! Had the 2002 from Talbot, Lagrange, Clerc Milon, Cos d'Estournel, La Mission Haut Brion, Malescot Saint-Exupéry, Sociando Mallet, Langoa Barton... i would say that only La Mission has been a deception.
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stefan
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by stefan »

Fun read, Ian, as usual.

Most of the left bank 2002 classified growths I have drunk have been fine to very good +. The right bank ones--not so much. I have not tasted L’Eglise Clinet, but Trotanoy was similarly disappointing the last time I drank a bottle (probably 2-3 years ago).
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SF Ed
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by SF Ed »

I went long 2002 and enjoy them a lot. I've drunk nearly a case of Lynch Bages which I have found very solid and enjoyable. Las Cases is drinking very well right now.

On the first growths, Haut Brion is brilliant and tastes like Haut Brion more than anything else. Lafite was a bit clunky five years ago, but Latour is amazingly approachable and tasty.

If anyone wants to drink/compare 2002 Bordeaux, I'm up for it all day long.

SF Ed
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robert goulet
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by robert goulet »

Wonderful report, TY...doesn't Jim have a fondness for this vintage ?
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JoelD
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

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SF Ed wrote: Wed Jul 13, 2022 10:29 pm I went long 2002 and enjoy them a lot. I've drunk nearly a case of Lynch Bages which I have found very solid and enjoyable. Las Cases is drinking very well right now.

On the first growths, Haut Brion is brilliant and tastes like Haut Brion more than anything else. Lafite was a bit clunky five years ago, but Latour is amazingly approachable and tasty.

If anyone wants to drink/compare 2002 Bordeaux, I'm up for it all day long.

SF Ed
I have a couple bottles of the Haut Brion I've been waiting on. Could be a candidate for BWE 2022. What did you mean that it tastes more like Haut Brion than anything else though? Meaning lives up to 1st growth standard better than the others?

Great notes, Ian. I haven't tasted many of the 02's but I've quite enjoyed my splits of Leoville Barton. Very interesting that the DDC showed best in that lineup. I wouldn't have guessed that. They must have waited to go over to the dark side. Or the vintage wasn't conducive to doing so.
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by Comte Flaneur »

That was about the time that DDC went over to the dark side Joel. Howlin’ moon and all that.

That’s why I wanted to ensure it was in the line up as I was curious.

Like Keef banging out his trademark riffs for the Stones, this wine had all the Graves signature leitmotivs in spades and was definitely old school. A brilliant wine in a great place.

In fact pretty much on a par with the 2002 Haut Brion I tried back in the spring, which came out on top at our last tasting at that venue. That was no slouch. I think overall 2002 may be even better in Graves than in the Medoc. Remember 2002 SHL? You hardly ever see that wine these days.

Interest piqued I looked on line and long story short I am the proud owner of a case of 2002 DDC rouge for £500 in bond. What a bargain! That compares to circa £700 for Haut- Bailly, £800-900 for the two Leovilles and Pontet Canet and well over £1000 for Ducru, Lynch and Baron.

Last Saturday I had to pull out a claret at very short notice - and I ended up reaching for Ch. D’Issan 2002. I acquired a small batch a couple of years ago and I was underwhelmed by the first bottle. This second bottle - popped and poured - was marvellous - it had a beautifully floral Margaux bouquet, with truffly hints and was nicely resolved albeit grippy on the palate… a bit of plum iness but a wine with real finesse…much better than the Rauzan Segla we had on Tuesday.
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SF Ed
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by SF Ed »

I have a couple bottles of the Haut Brion I've been waiting on. Could be a candidate for BWE 2022. What did you mean that it tastes more like Haut Brion than anything else though? Meaning lives up to 1st growth standard better than the others?
What I meant was that 2002 Haut Brion shares a great deal with other vintages of Haut Brion. If you like Haut Brion from great vintages like 1989, 1990 and 1998, you will find a lot of those same flavors in 2002. Not as much concentration or complexity, but it has a signature that is still evident.

SF Ed
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by JimS »

SF Ed wrote: Thu Jul 14, 2022 3:18 pm
I have a couple bottles of the Haut Brion I've been waiting on. Could be a candidate for BWE 2022. What did you mean that it tastes more like Haut Brion than anything else though? Meaning lives up to 1st growth standard better than the others?
What I meant was that 2002 Haut Brion shares a great deal with other vintages of Haut Brion. If you like Haut Brion from great vintages like 1989, 1990 and 1998, you will find a lot of those same flavors in 2002. Not as much concentration or complexity, but it has a signature that is still evident.

SF Ed
I completely agree with this - I think it's a fantastic value vintage of Haut Brion if you want to know what's in its DNA but don't want to break the bank.....a very good representation of the sort of house flavor profile (HB is one of my absolute faves - just wish it wasn't so expensive). I regret not going long both 2002 and 1998 several years back - still kicking myself for not buying more when both were still solid value and relatively underpriced for what they were (well, 1998 has sort of flown the coop, but 2002 is still relatively good value for HB even at today's prices scanning what's out there).
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JoelD
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by JoelD »

Jealous of that score, Ian. That sounds like quite the steal. Looks like you scooped up the only case available right now. Although I have yet to buy any wine in bond and import it to the states. Might have to get some tips from you one of these days.

Looking forward to one of my 2002 Haut Brion then Ed/JimS Although I think my 1993 will be on deck first. That one I know is ready to go for my palate.

I've started to notice a bit of a trend with some of these wines that have "gone over to the dark side." That in the the less acclaimed vintages, they make more classic wine still. I've seen this with wines such as the 04/06 SHL, 04 Poyferre. Also sounds like the 02 SHL and DCC. According to some, same thing applies with the 2014 vintage. La Conseillante for example. Is there anything to this?
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robert goulet
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by robert goulet »

JoelD wrote: Thu Jul 14, 2022 5:24 am
SF Ed wrote: Wed Jul 13, 2022 10:29 pm I went long 2002 and enjoy them a lot. I've drunk nearly a case of Lynch Bages which I have found very solid and enjoyable. Las Cases is drinking very well right now.

On the first growths, Haut Brion is brilliant and tastes like Haut Brion more than anything else. Lafite was a bit clunky five years ago, but Latour is amazingly approachable and tasty.

If anyone wants to drink/compare 2002 Bordeaux, I'm up for it all day long.

SF Ed
I have a couple bottles of the Haut Brion I've been waiting on. Could be a candidate for BWE 2022. What did you mean that it tastes more like Haut Brion than anything else though? Meaning lives up to 1st growth standard better than the others?

Great notes, Ian. I haven't tasted many of the 02's but I've quite enjoyed my splits of Leoville Barton. Very interesting that the DDC showed best in that lineup. I wouldn't have guessed that. They must have waited to go over to the dark side. Or the vintage wasn't conducive to doing so.

We consumed a magnum of 2002 Haut Brion at Berns in Tampa last year...def. was drinking young. Its good, no question, but not enough secondary evolution to be interesting at this stage.
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

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We drank 2002 Pichon Baron and 2000 Grand Puy Lacoste last night with grilled hanger steak. Both were very good and true and went very well with the steak, but the Baron "kicked the ass of GPL", according to stefanJr.
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SF Ed
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by SF Ed »

2002 Pichon Baron is a winner. I like it a lot more than 2002 Pichon Lalande.
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JimHow
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by JimHow »

Sounds like yet more weak showings from Lynch Bages and GPL, and yet more strong showings from Pichon Baron. And so it goes....

2002L is one of the great vintages of the past 50 years.
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Gerry M.
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Re: 2002 Bordeaux: a 20 year retrospective

Post by Gerry M. »

Great notes! 2002 was a sleeper year that has more than a few very enjoyable wines. I've gone through a case of Leoville Poyferre and over two cases of Pichon Baron. I've also enjoyed Leoville Barton, GPL, Giscours and Lagrange. One bottle I'm sitting on is a Leoville Las Cases and not sure how much longer I should wait.
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