Pre-auction aged Bordeaux tasting

[Claudius2]

Guys
Spent some time today at an auction here - first live one I have been to since early 2020.
There were 14 wines to try and all but one were fairly old.
The last auction tasting was, with one or two exceptions, not a great experience so I hoped for more this time.
Luckily few wines were dead though most really should have been consumed earlier.

Most were Bordeaux with a few others:

Gevrey-Chambertin 'Vieilles Vignes' Domaine Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges
I used to buy Faiveley wines on a regular basis, though lately they have slipped under my radar.
This wine was dark red, almost black in the centre, slightly purple rim.
Nose was a bit weird. Chemical aromas reminding me of a pharmacy.
Palate was a bit acidic and medicinal - not anything like what I expected.
Strangely, some tasters like it and the cases for sale were cleared.
Not rated. May be an off bottle. However, I did not bid on any Faiveley wines after this.
In the early to mid 90's, I bought a half pallet (30 cases) of Faiveley Chambertin, GC Cazetiers, Chambolle 1er Cru and a few others, from 85 to 88.
Either the wines have changed or this was not a representative bottle. In any case, Faiveley was a house wine for several years along with GL and various other St Juliens. Those were the days....

Château Talbot 1985, Saint-Julien, 4ème Grand Cru Classé
Label was a mess but the colour was a nice pink/red, rather fluid rim.
Nose was old style Cordier - iodine, ink, red fruits, earth and cedar.
Palate was softly fruity, with leather and game. Probably some VA (volatile acidity) which I don't mind. Low acid and tannins.
Pretty good, though the end is neigh. Drink up. Okay wine, maybe good with food.

Château La Tour Martillac 1982, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé Rouge
Colour is a faded red, thin rim, with slightly stinky nose of animal, and a touch of brett.
Whilst drinkable, it was out of condition. Okayat best.

Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs 2018, Weingut Wittmann, Rheinhessen
Made the mistake of trying this last as I wasn't aware it was even in the tasting.
Oh well. Only recollection was some sweetness and fruity scents.

Château Poujeaux 1982, Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois
Better than expected for a "humble" CB. Colour was a soft pink/red, rather fluid rim.
Nose was of leather, earth, faded red fruits.
Palate was sweeter than the nose and offered some red fruit meshed with earth. Not bad, quite good and maybe nicer with food.

Château Gruaud-Larose 1985,Saint-Julien, 2ème Grand Cru Classé
I know this wine well after imbibing on 4 dozen in the mid to late 90s, maybe the last dew in early 2000's.
If I could now buy it at auction for AUD19 (about USD11 at the time) I would be happy.
Nice soft red colour, clear and bright, more density than the Talbot, and the labels were in fine shape, which I am sure influenced everyone's view as the wine was bid on by many during the auction. I held out - there were three cases but they all went for more than I'd pay. At a low price, I'd happily buy it.
Anyway, the nose was typical Cordier again - this time with more obvious red fruits on the nose, and a slightly rosy, musky character along with some funky, animal characters and leather.
Palate was very pleasant despite being light to medium bodied now, with inky, iodine characters to the fore on the palate, plus nice red fruit in the mid palate. The best of the Bordeaux on tasting and very good at least. I'd like to drink the whole bottle some time.
I have no qualms however about having swilled down 4 dozen at 10-15 years.

Château La Tour Martillac 1979, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé Rouge
Pale red, rather fluid colour, with a nose of rose oil, some earthy, leathery characters.
Palate showed soft red fruits, a touch of damp earth and game.
Better than expected for a 79, though the acid and tannins had all gone by now.
Good at least though, and I'd happily drink it any day.

Château Nenin 1985 Pomerol
I drank a few of these in the mid 90's and it was actually pretty good then - nicely fruity and well balanced.
Now it tries to show its faded charms but alas it is merde.
Colour was fine though the nose was stinky, dirty, rather nasty.
Palate was earthy and medicinal, there is some red fruit if you look hard, but at this stage, it isn't in good shape.
Not rated.

Château Gruaud-Larose 1979, Saint-Julien, 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Maybe not as good as the 85, but I still liked this old Cordier funky wine.
Nice bright red, fluid rim. Nose was less fruity than the 85, more earth, leather, and Cordier funky notes.
Palate is rather faded with earth and gamey notes though not much fruit left. Tannins long gone.
Drinkable but a bit dull and flat. Okay only, maybe a bit better with food.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 'Les Hauts Pruliers' 1989, Bertrand Machard de Gramont
Don't ask me why this was next in order, but the colour was a nice dark red, though the nose wasn't that great.
Quite earthy, with some vegetative notes and red fruits.
Palate was better, offering soft red fruits and cherry, enough sweetness to balance the soft acidity.
Pretty good but maybe it is several years past its prime.
Rated good but no better. I think it would show better with food.

Brunello di Montalcino 1997, Cencioni Patrizia, Siena
Not familiar with this wine, but it was arguably the wine of the tasting.
Okay, it was younger than most and the colour was a good dark red, almost black core, which next to the old wines, looked interesting.
Nose was clean and fruity, lots of small red fruit, smoky and earthy characters, a touch of anise.
There were still some tannins and acid, giving the wine a more complete mouthfeel and flavour.
Very good to excellent - it wasn't for sale at the auction though I will look out for it.
I'd still drink this now. It is a' point and I see no need for more age.

Ailanpa' Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT 1999, Foradori, Trentino-Alto Adige
I have tried a few other Foradori wines over the decades though not this one.
Noce crimson red, bright and intense.
Nose was a little strange - a slight chemical or medicinal character initially though the palate showed inky black and red fruit, some game and earth.
Not a lot of tannins or acid. The palate was very good despite the rather odd nose. More dark fruit than any other wine today.

Anjou 'Moulin Touchais' 1975, J. Touchais, Doué-la-Fontaine
Well Not sure if I can make any sense of this.
It tastes like a theoretic cross between Tokay and white Port.
Nose was rather dirty with some caramel and apricot.
Palate had sweet/sour characters with the apricot and peachy fruit offset by brown sugar and earth.
But the dirty, earthy characters were too much for me.

Château Rauzan-Gassies 1979, Margaux, 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Light pinky red, rather strange nose of pickled vegetables.
Wendy said it reminded her of Kimchi (Korean preserved cabbage).
Palate was DOA. Bitter and flat, leaving a rather dull, dirty taste in my mouth.
Not rated and no idea what it would have been like when younger.

Most of the lots were sold at the auction and I am still wondering why some Burgundies (eg, Leflaive, Meo Camuzet, etc) are now SGD500+ for a 1er Cru. Okay, I must be getting old but I do remember them well...

At the auction, I bought the following:

6 bottles (OWC) 2016 Leoville Las Cases. I hope it lives up to its promise. And I hope I live as long
1 Magnum of 2018 Remy Cacheux Vosne Romanee Les Suchots 1er Cru
6 bottles of 2018 Girardin Pommard Les Charmots 1er Cru.

I also bid on several other cases of left bank Bordeaux from 2005 onward, though I was outbid by a pile of merchants and restauranteurs who seem to all have deep pockets. Many of the old wines sold, even a few I thought were long gone. C'est la vie.

Cheers
Mark

[DavidG]

Nice report, and congrats on the 2016 LLC. May be a long wait for that one to strut its stuff, but with 6 you can open one in the name of science early one… say in 15 years?

[Claudius2]

David
I hope so. I find LLC takes 20 years to open and the 2001 - which I bought at auction a few years ago - seems like it still isn’t ready. Over here some locals ask why buy a wine you cannot drink for 20 odd years lah (Singlish term).

I have however vowed to not buy any more en primeur stock after overloading on 2019s.

Cheers
Mark

[JimS]

David
I hope so. I find LLC takes 20 years to open and the 2001 - which I bought at auction a few years ago - seems like it still isn’t ready. Over here some locals ask why buy a wine you cannot drink for 20 odd years lah (Singlish term).

I have however vowed to not buy any more en primeur stock after overloading on 2019s.

Cheers
Mark

If there was ever a vintage to "overload" on in recent memory, it's the 2019's in my opinion

The QPR (if you bought at EP prices) and overall accessibility of the vintage (at a young age) I think are fantastic if one doesn't want to wait the typical 10-20 years to start popping corks....

[Claudius2]

Jim
Yeah been to a few 2019 tastings and they are definitely the real deal. Only worry is the alcohol level in some right bank wines.

[Dionysus]

Jim
Yeah been to a few 2019 tastings and they are definitely the real deal. Only worry is the alcohol level in some right bank wines.

Huge fan of 2019...it was my first real EP vintage and went big. Still picking up a few here and there when I see tempting prices, most recently Branaire Ducru @ €50, which isn't so far removed for the release price. WK gave it a very strong review: https://www.farrvintners.com/wine.php?wine=60537

Alcohol for sure is a worry...Haut-Brion at 15%, Calon Segur 14.9%, etc.

[Dionysus]

Interestingly alcohol levels in 2020 are on average 1% less, but some commentators have mentioned they lack acidity (i.e. pushing beyond 3.65); acidity levels in 2019 are closer to 3.55.

Re LLC, I'll purchase 2021 in 5 years time when prices drop. This vintage overall should be drinking a lot earlier that most recent ones and clocks in at a respectable 13.2% alcohol. I have 05 and 16 in the cellar; will have to wait another 10 years for 05 to be anywhere ready I'd imagine.

[DavidG]

I bought too much 2019 for my age. An aspirational acquisition.

Also went pretty long, for me, on 2016. Comparing those to 2019s should be interesting.

[Dionysus]

I haven't tasted enough of either to take a definitive view, and certainly we've to wait for these to evolve in bottle, but I'm convinced that 2016 will be the next 1982.

[AKR]

Re LLC, I'll purchase 2021 in 5 years time when prices drop.

Why do you believe LLC prices will drop? I do believe large stocks are being held back, and maybe prices stay flattish in inflation adjusted terms, but hard to see the chateau actually marking their own inventory down, given how much economic stake they have in the valuation.

[Dionysus]

Re LLC, I'll purchase 2021 in 5 years time when prices drop.

Why do you believe LLC prices will drop? I do believe large stocks are being held back, and maybe prices stay flattish in inflation adjusted terms, but hard to see the chateau actually marking their own inventory down, given how much economic stake they have in the valuation.

I just don't see much value in buying 2021 EP. I'd be surprised if you couldn't pick this up for the same price in 5 years time +/- 5%.

Purely from a rating perspective, LLC 2021 has a similar rating to 2012 and 2008 - the 2014 would be the next with a similar average rating but is probably a point higher (2021 average of 94 verses 2014 average of 95). All are currently available at a cheaper price.

Outside of the 1st growths, "off" vintages rarely see significant price increases from EP prices. This can change the further out the time horizon, when wines get closer to their drinking window, and/or a vintage turns out better than originally anticipated (i.e. 2011's now softening up).

For me in Ireland, one has to pay 23% VAT plus Excise Duty - so the €195 EP price becomes €245 in two years time. Will I be able to buy this in retail in 4/5 years time for €245, all-in? I'm willing to bet yes. I can get the 2019 today for €240 all-in, the 2010 for €260 (with an 11 year head start on the drinking window).

In fairness to LLC, they were one of the few chateaus that reflected a significant price drop versus the 2020's (almost 15%), so while I don't think one will "lose" if purchasing now, I don't see much upside (other than guaranteed provenance).

[Claudius2]

Guys
I have decided that I’m not buying EP anymore despite the fact that over the decades, 90% of my Bordeaux purchases were EP. in Australia and Singapore, few importers handle much Bordeaux except for pre-arrival sales. Some importers however have bet on 2019 and prices are reasonable given the quality partly as the Euro is down relative to the SGD.

I see no reason to buy 2020 or particularly 2021 unless you want to have something from every vintage. However, there’s a lot of nice vintages on the market now that EP buys seem a little superfluous. For a change the importers are bringing in past vintages for current sale even here in Singapore due to the currency’s strength and maybe maturity of the local market.

Don’t see much reason why LLC prices will fall and it is a very reliable performer on the secondary market. However there are always plenty of unknowns. One is whether China will invade Taiwan which is freaking out everyone here.

[Dionysus]

I haven't tasted enough of either to take a definitive view, and certainly we've to wait for these to evolve in bottle, but I'm convinced that 2016 will be the next 1982.

Interesting take here on the 2016's in a recent Quintus vs Stars of Saint Emilion blind tasting, which reinforces the above point: https://www.farrvintners.com/blog/post.php?post=1736

Specifically on the 2016 vintage: "The standout element of the day for me was the incredible quality of the 2016 vintage. Many discuss the merits of 2015 on the right bank versus those of 2016 on the left, but in reality 2016 sits above its predecessor on both sides of the Gironde. The best 2015s are outstanding: seductive and polished with a spherical nature and warm generosity. 2016, though, brings an extra layer of precision, depth and intensity. There were no weak wines in 2016 - even those prone to excess revealed incredible purity, with the best having tension, generosity and exquisite balance. It is no surprise that the top five wines in the tasting all came from the 2016 vintage. With so much clamour over the value of 2019 - understandable given the value and quality on show - many 2016s have been overlooked and now represent excellent value for their quality. This is a vintage to continue to buy heavily and is - in my view - the best vintage of the century so far. Purity, power, precision and ageing potential are all rolled into one. The wines are exceptional."

[DavidG]

Conor, very interesting comments from Farr. I bought a fair amount of 2019s en primeur since they seemed a good bargain. Since then most of my purchases have been 2016s.

[Dionysus]

Conor, very interesting comments from Farr. I bought a fair amount of 2019s en primeur since they seemed a good bargain. Since then most of my purchases have been 2016s.

Interesting for sure. Commentary from a retailer always has to be taken with a pinch of salt I find, but they are very bullish comments.

So now to decide what I need to go back in for

At the upper level Figeac and VCC would be my two. Figeac is consistently competing with Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Angélus, etc yet is half the price. Similarly VCC is every bit as good as Lafleur, Petrus, Le Pin, etc, but is available for many multiples less. VCC 2016 is now broaching €400 however, and while still great value when compared to those mentioned above, I'd hardly quantify it as a bargain. Maybe Canon at a more wallet pleasing €160?

Branaire Ducru, Lagona Barton, D'issan, and GPL further down the price chain maybe...

[DavidG]

Of those you mention, I backfilled 2016 Figeac and GPL. I wouldn’t hesitate to add Branaire and d’Issan if I see them at a nice price. VCC is on my wish list but as you note price is too high to make it easy to pull the trigger. Think I missed the boat on that one.