TN: Two clarets from the 1994 vintage

[chris kissack]

I think 1994 Bordeaux comes in for some undue criticism as a vintage at times. I do think 1995 and 1996 are superior, but this is not another 1991, 1992 or 1993. It makes for a middle ground, a hunting ground where inadequate and unexciting wines provide good cover for the occasional gem, you just need to know where to look.

This was a vintage from an era when every third vintage wasn't 'vintage of the century', before Pontet-Canet cost a thousand quid/bucks per case and the wines on the whole seemed just that little bit different - less sweet and fleshy, more restrained and savoury. It is surely this characteristic of the wines - the fact that 1994s do tend to lack a little flesh - that leads many to dismiss the vintage. Yes, these wines do not always have the softness of texture to hide their tannic backbones, but so what? Must all wines be stuffed with squishy forest fruits to be enjoyable?

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy many of the modern wines coming out of Bordeaux, but supple, tannic, structured, complex efforts like this that major on character and savouriness are just as worthy of a place in the cellar as more modern efforts. I find the two wines noted below don't usually disappoint; I have a few bottles from various domaines, but these two are the only bottles I have in any quantity.

Chateau Pontet-Canet 1994: It is remarkable how well this wine, from a sometimes derided vintage, is holding up. A great colour on inspection, slightly dusty-matt, but still dominated by red pigment rather than brown. A lovely nose, not showy or exuberant, but true to the wine, the estate and the appellation. It does take an hour in the decanter to really open up, but when it does it offers notes of perfumed fruit, hints of black olives, graphite, tea leaves, green peppercorn and mint. The palate is dry and savoury, without the sweet flesh of more modern wines, from more recent vintages. This wine has a fine structure, elegant but also with some substance, and a lightly poised texture that will have fans of old-school claret shivering with delight. Fine complexity here, fairly dense in terms of character, with a finish that leaves the mouth in a lively fashion, lightly infused with tannins. Lovely. 17/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton 1994: Another old favourite from this vintage. It has a great colour in the glass, and a nose of fresh fruit, perfumed with notes of violets, blackberries and chalk; it is fresh, defined, bright, evocative and most certainly expressive. In contrast to the Pontet-Canet and as a rebuke to detractors of the vintage it shows a lovely flesh on entry, alongside broad and brilliantly decisive flavour, a great structure with lively acidity and a polished and rounded mouthfeel. There is plenty of texture, although it seems perfect composed, even if there is a slightly sweet and fleshy finish. Good length too. This is remarkable considering the vintage's reputation; plenty of wines in this vintage are good in an austere, dry, old-fashioned (and for many people desirable) style. This wine might have enough flesh to keep even the most fervent modernist happy too. Really great wine. 18/20

[SF Ed]

Thanks for the notes - I have both of these wines and while I don't rate them quite as high, I do find them very enjoyable and classic.

SF Ed

[AlexR]

Chris,

Remarkably well-written notes and apology for "other than blockbuster" vintages. I couldn't agree more!

So many lemmings out there, it is refreshing to find someone who takes wines for what they really are .

It's great to read you on BWE.

All the best,
Alex R.

[Comte Flaneur]

Likewise I agree with these sentiments Chris. I have about 100 bottles of 1994 Bordeaux and am very happy with the way they are evolving...I think people on this board are familiar with the strength of Pontet Canet in this vintage...but Leoville Barton and Ducru are lovely too now after a difficult start in life...La Mission and Cos used to bit a bit hollow in the mid palate but now are starting to fill out nicely. Latour and Mouton (aka the Prince of Darkness) are classically styled 'vins de garde' and will be long lived. Pape Clement is nice and Angelus is strong on the right bank. The only ones I have that have been somewhat disappointing are two in Pomerols: L'Eglise Clinet and Gazin.

[chris kissack]

Thanks guys, good responses and very kind comments on the notes too!

[JCNorthway]

I purchased a half dozen bottles of 1994 Pichon Lalande at a pretty good sale price when the vintage was not selling well. I've sampled a couple over the years, and as of a couple of years ago, I thought it was developing into a pretty nice traditional Bordeaux wine.

Jon

[JimHow]

Thanks for the report, Chris, I have enjoyed both of those wines in the past, for the reasons you stated in your notes, the classicism, etc. I havent had them in years, though, although I do have a 6L of 2004 Pontet-Canet. We uncorked a 3L of 2004 Pichon Lalande at my dad's 85th birthday last November and it was singing.

[Michael-P]

Damn you! Now I've had to add more to my "to buy" list.....

Michael-P