TN: Drei wines from Germany

[chris kissack]

I bought quite a few German wines from the 2001 vintage. Most (but not all) I have opened and tasted somewhere along the way, but I have been remiss in not revisiting them in a sufficiently regular fashion. Too many wines, not enough time, I suppose. And so, in a feeble attempt to right this wrong, here are notes on three kabinetts recently pulled from my cellar.

When to approach the heavily-sulphured wines of J-J Prüm is always a difficult question to answer, so hopefully the good showing of this wine - with no sulphur detected - should be some ressurance that this vintage at least is open for business.

Bert Simon Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 2001: Alcohol 8.5% here. Quite a rich, deep, golden hue, rather deeper than I expected although I see I have made the same comment when I last tasted this - six years ago. The nose now has sweet limes and oranges balanced with minerals, the floral elements having long faded. Showing more body than anticipated, fairly substantial, still showing good but appropriate light sweetness and a honeyed, slightly velvety texture, but with a pithy grip to it very reminiscent of tart citrus fruit. Drily structured despite that thin layer of sugar, savoury, quite long too. 16.5/20 AP number: 3 555 058 502

Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 2001: Over three years since my last taste of this, and it is certainly showing some development. The colour has a little more depth I think, yellow with a classic green tinge. The nose reveals some limey fruit, but is now showing a slatey and petrolly-mealy character to the nose as well. Notes of orange peel and white truffle. Nicely firm at the start, quite rich on the palate,showing the flesh of its residual sugar and a dried fruit style. Rather bold in style, the acidity taking a backseat on this tasting, still rather luxuriant and slightly honeyed. Good wine, but in honesty it seems a little dull compared to my last tasting. Is it just a little closed down, or is it fading? 16.5?/20 AP number: 3 536 014 14 02

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2001: Still a fairly pale wine, but with a certain yellow-green tinged. Unlike the Maximin Grünhäuser wine tasted alongside this still has an exuberant and youthful nose, fresh and very mineral, with limes rubbed on stone, fresh green apples, flower petals and a fine spice. There is a good depth here, a gritty, mealy depth very reminiscent of my tasting three years ago. A delicious palate, pure but rich, dripping with passion fruit, honeydew melon and limes, all backed up by a rich substance which hangs very nicely on a light-footed frame of pure, vibrant acidity. Just a hint of petrol coming in here. A super wine which just fills you with confidence. Composed, seductive and very, very moreish. 18+/20 AP number: 2 576 511 12 02

[DavidG]

Nice notes, Chris. I don't drink a lot of German Rieslings, but usually like them when I do drink them, especially some of th older ones my friends tend to bring. I went big (for me) on the '01s - a couple of cases - and have finished the Kabinetts. Last I tried, the Spatlesen and Auslesen were too sweet for my taste - better as dessert wines. Are these going to become less sweet and more complex in another 5(?), 10(?), 20(?) years or should I just drink them as dessert wines?

[chris kissack]

Hi David

Sweet wines do tend to dry with age (based on experience with ancient Vouvray rather than Mosel Riesling, but I am sure the extrapolation is valid) and so I would just look in again in 5+ years if I were you, especially for the spatlesen which should move into a place where you enjoy themmore. The auslesen might take along time to come to where you want them though!

[DavidG]

I can always drink the auslesen as dessert wines. My problem is when I'm expecting one thing and get another.