1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

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Comte Flaneur
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1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Comte Flaneur »

So we were only ten this year, with some notable omissions, but some welcome new folks came in to fill in the breach.

Chris's blanc de blancs got the evening off to a stirring start, only to be marred by my horribly corked Pape Clement Blanc 1994. Shucks, sorry guys….

Never mind.

So we launched into the Saint Emilions. The 85 Belair was a Shangri-La, think Ray Davies....lovely nose, sort of angular on the palate, but like a reassuringly old cardigan and slippers, very old school, smoke your pipe by the fireplace and have no dreams of getting rich quick.

Canon: the fishwives didn’t getit because it was nice when you drank it out of our 'versprung durch technik' Eisch glasses which Maureen and I purveyed.

But it was still a bit inert and the VCC was bloody good...a lot of tobacco and funk, clearly the wotf

Moving on

Margaux commune

Brane Cantenac 83....a lot going on here, great nose, alive. Tobacco and animal. But quite volatile. But skinny, skinny fox. Skinny mid palate, despite vibrant colour. Divided the table. It was on the edge. In two years it might unravel.

Rausan –Segla 83 …nice animal/gamey notes much more comfortable gamey notes…silkier and a reassuringly broad mid plate which the B-C conspicuously lacked,. Way better.

1985s

The Cos was all over the place and a bit out of sorts. The Gruaud was rocking like Mick n Keef on a good night . What a good nose! The Cos, hmmmm. But the G-L…wotn so far

The Pichons…

Bloody marvelous all three. It was hard to pick a winner, The 1983 had a nice espresso nose but it ended up a contest between the 81 and 88…I really couldn’t pick the winner but Maureen gave the 88 the thumbs up and so did Jacques. Not gonna argue….but is the unalloyed pleasure tinged with green….the ‘88 pipped it with a bit of zip on the end palate that the 81 didn’t quite have. We Are splitting quality hairs here….big thumbs up…but is this really the flite of the nite?

Next flight. Fgs.

Yes Jacques predicted the Pichons would be the flight of the night. I could see where he was coming from but the FG quality came through…no asparagus here…the 81 Margaux….class in a glass, the 87 Mouton so voluptuous and the 88 Mouton starting to show its class…the 81 Margaux was my wotn, the 87 was the emotional tour de force but in ten years time the 88 Mouton will be way ahead….it is not a 100 point wine, neither is it a 89 point wine but who gives a monkeys about points anyway, it was the wine with the best potential.

88s

Gruaud. Bloody good…it was a great night for Gruaud Larose.

Pape. OK but fell off, is this losing its mojo?

Surprise wines….Silver Oak 1985 and

Desserts – 88 Lafaurie was magnificent and Mikes 07 Coutet was nice
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salilb
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by salilb »

Thanks for organizing this Ian. Lots of fun, great to meet the BWE community and some really great wines - the 87 Mouton was by far my favourite of the evening, though I was also a huge fan of the 88 Mouton, the 81 and 88 PLLs and the 85 Gruaud Larose.

My take on the wines...
N.V. Agrapart & Fils Champagne Les 7 Crus Blancs de Blancs Brut
Nice way to start the evening, combining bright lemon and pear fruit with fresh baked bread and yeasty flavours, not overly complex but polished and light on its feet with a sense of precision and refreshment to the flavours.
1994 Château Pape Clément Blanc
Corked.

Flight 1: Right banks
1985 Château Canon
Some debate whether this was corked; I didn't find TCA but it didn't come across as a representative bottle (certainly a much worse showing than my last experience with this last year at Dale's Canon vertical) with stewed fruit, not much depth and little freshness.
1985 Château Belair
Starts out slightly bitter and awkward, showing some stewed tomato fruit framed by savoury tobacco and earth; with time it pulls itself together as the fruit deepens and gains a sense of freshness. Quite enjoyable with air, though not particularly complex.
1988 Vieux Château Certan
Drinking superbly now with a seamless combination of dark fruited flavours, cedar, tobacco and leathery funk and a faint green herbaceous element that adds a sense of freshness here. The tannins are pretty much resolved and this has a lovely polished texture that makes it all too easy to drink.

Flight 2: 83 Margaux
1983 Château Rausan-Ségla
Not a lot of depth to the aromatics which are a bit one-note, but it's another matter on the palate - lots of depth, layers of dark fruit that are remarkably youthful framed by cedar and a sauvage meaty element conveyed with a sense of power and polish. Very nice.
1983 Château Brane-Cantenac
Great aromatics with tobacco, worn leather, floral elements and gentle red fruited elements combining into a lovely scent. It doesn't show the same depth or character in the mouth though, where it feels slightly thin and tired at first, gaining some weight with air but still remaining fairly one-note to taste.

Flight 3: 85s
1985 Château Cos d'Estournel
Impressive at first, full of fresh, youthful dark fruited and cassis flavours framed by savoury earthy and tobacco flavours - but with some air it starts to fade a bit as the fruit loses intensity and a faint volatile element emerges.
1985 Château Gruaud Larose
Firing on all cylinders. Layers of rich red and dark fruited flavours, tobacco, cedar wood and that leathery Cordier funk combining into a seamless and incredibly aromatic whole. The tannins here are fully resolved and there's bright acidity underneath giving the flavours a sense of real freshness and precision. A fantastic bottle.

Flight 4: PLL vertical
1981 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
In a great place right now with a core of dark fruited flavours framed by savoury tobacco and earthy elements and a vivid forestal greenness that brings a top Loire Cab Franc to mind. There's a sense of real polish and finesse to the texture with tannins fully integrated and bright acids keeping it very lively and fresh, great stuff.
1983 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Wasn't a huge fan of this - dominated by a powerful roasted espresso note that others enjoyed, but I found it overwhelmed the fruit and developed nuances that the '81 and '88 showed.
1988 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
A really great showing - incredibly aromatic, combining forestal greennery, tobacco, fresh dark fruits and savoury earthy and graphite elements into a seamless, complex whole. There's amazing depth and balance here with the tannins and fruit suggesting there's still plenty of time ahead for this, but it's truly outstanding right now. (Is it heresy to compare it to Bernard Baudry's Chinon 'Grezeaux', or to Clos Rougeard?)

Flight 5: First growths
1981 Château Margaux
This doesn't have the complexity or depth I'd expect (particularly following the Pichon Lalandes) but it's all about purity and finesse and very enjoyable to drink, showing bright floral and cedary elements around a core of fresh plummy and red fruited flavours. There's a sense of real polish and gloss to the texture, tannins fully resolved and it's a lovely wine, though overshadowed for me by some of the PLLs and the Moutons.
1987 Château Mouton Rothschild
Wow, wow, wow. Incredibly aromatic; layers of fresh dark fruited and cassis flavours framed by mature cedar, tobacco and leathery notes with spicy and sandalwood elements giving it an exotic character. There's amazing depth here, but also a sense of remarkable purity and finesse - it's not a heavyweight like the '88 and it conveys its flavours with a lightness of touch and an elegance that brings a great Burgundy to mind. Fantastic wine and my favourite of the night.
1988 Château Mouton Rothschild
Tight and brooding initially, this across much more primary than the '87 with rich dark fruited flavours framed by savoury graphite and cedary elements and a spine of firm tannins beneath. With time it really unravels to show a lot more aromatic depth as that spicy Mouton exotic quality emerges and the tannins soften a little. There's a sense of real power and density here, and I suspect it'll be quite amazing with time.

Flight 6: 88s
1988 Château Gruaud Larose
The same elements as the '85 we had earlier in the night - bright red fruit, tobacco and Cordier funk, but not showing the same depth or power as the '85 did, with the tannin making it feel a bit more austere. Very enjoyable with some air, though a bit disappointing given my expectations for mid 80s Gruauds.
1988 Château Pape Clément
Pretty much everything I look for in an older Graves - layers of red and dark fruits, cigar smoke, gravelly earth and dried tobacco; medium weight with some tannins still lurking on the back end, but very enjoyable with some air. Glad I have a few of these.

Flight 7: Mystery bagged wines that turned out to be 80s Cali Cabs
1985 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon
No idea if this was the Napa or Alexander Valley bottling, but I wasn't a huge fan - came across rather tired with the fruit listless and fading, and a patina of oak still very noticeable.
1980 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve
Overly ripe tomato and red fruited flavours that come across both stewed and roasted with a heavy vanilla seasoning. Not my type of wine at all.

Dessert:
1988 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Very decadent and sweet with luscious apricot and ripe tropical fruits drenched in caramel, orange marmalade and vanilla. It's quite enjoyable, though coming across a little too heavy and lacking in acidity. No thoughts on the '07 Coutet that accompanied it, other than it was incredibly primary and a bit one-note right now.

Fun night with some real standouts, thanks all.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Excellent notes Salil

I forgot to mention how the voting went

Wine of the night: Mouton 87
Runner up: Pichon 88
3) Margaux 81
4) Mouton 88
5) Pichon 81
6) VCC 88
7) Gruaud 85
8) Pichon 83
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Comte Flaneur »

These are my notes - please ignore the rambling rant on the first post.

Flight 1: Right banks

Château Canon 1985

Pretty disappointing and flat, some thought it was corked but it was just dull and a bit tired. In our Eisch glasses this was clearly not corked and more expressive than in Riedels. But still dull. 1 ½ stars

Château Belair 1985

Mysterious old style dusty nose, earthy and tobacco notes; very old school and unobtrusive; no need to analyse this one to drink by the fire in your Shangri-La. 3 stars

Vieux Château Certan 1988

Served a bit too warm, but this was more lively and structured with alluring tobacco notes allied to dark fruits and cedar, drinking very well but unlike the 85s here no need to drink up. Outstanding, and deservedly wine of the flight. 5 stars


Flight 2: Margaux 83s

Château Rausan-Ségla 1983

Really interesting attack which was aggressive, carnal and animal. It was broad, mouth filling and silky on the palate (in contrast to the Brane below) and the finish. Not very polished but really alive with meaty notes. 4 stars

Château Brane-Cantenac 1983

Vibrant colour, this had a similar animal gamey attack with tobacco notes, but was thinner on the mid palate, like a skinny fox. One felt that this could let go at any time. Interesting but not great. Drink up. 2 ½ stars

The table was divided on these, and the vote was split down the middle.


Flight 3: 1985s

Château Cos d'Estournel 1985

I’ve had this many times down the years and this does suffer from bottle variation and there was something not right about this. This wine also divided opinions. Don’t think it was corked because it had some trademark aromatics but it was disjointed. 2 stars

Château Gruaud Larose 1985

The nose alone is worth the price of admission and this one had more substance than usual on the mid palate and the finish. Really resolved and at the top of its game with the perfect amount of Cordier funk. A fabulous bottle of claret and wotf. 5 stars


Flight 4: Pichon Lalande

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1981

This was also in the perfect spot (where it has been for some time). Savoury green notes allied to tertiary aromas of forest floor, smooth polished, delightful and satisfying. No sign of tiredness, just a great bottle. 5 stars

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1983

This had a roasted espresso note which was not to everyone’s liking but I loved. Similar to the 1981 but not quite as expressive or focused. 4 ½ stars

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1988

Very similar to the 1981, just as funky and polished but with a little bit more mineral and graphite thrown in; very seamless and complex. Edged out the 1981 for wotf. Terrific stuff 5 ½ stars


Flight 5: First growths

Château Margaux 1981

This takes the game to an even higher level – you marvel at this wine’s purity, dexterity, finesse and gravitas in an understated and discreet delivery. Subtle notes of berries, plums and flowers. A great bottle purchased from Changi Airport duty free in the mid 1990s. 6 stars

Château Mouton Rothschild 1987

I knew this could be great and would be the dark horse. Just simply brilliant from the trademark Mouton nose of cedar and soy through the silky and seamless mid palate. This is just perfect now. Also dextrous with great depth and purity. 6 stars

Château Mouton Rothschild 1988

This is finally starting to show its promise. By far the best bottle (though not tried this since 2006). Still a little tight but unfurled majestically. Has more power and density than the 1987, and will reach greater heights. It is starting to show great complexity lacking in earlier showings. This will be a great Mouton. 6+ stars

The 1987 was voted wotf


Flight 6: 1988s

Château Gruaud Larose 1988

Cut from similar cloth as the 1985 but this is more austere and structured – not necessarily a bad thing. It is drinking beautifully. Another superb bottle. Gruaud was on fire in the 1980s. 5 stars

Château Pape Clément 1988

This bottle lacked a bit of precision on the palate after the trademark Graves nose... Slightly disappointing in the context of other bottles I’ve had of this. 3 ½ stars


Flight 7: Ringers/mystery wines

Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1985

Diffuse, soft and a bit tired 2 stars

Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve 1980

Falling apart at the seams and frankly a bit of a mess 1 ½ stars


Dessert wines

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1988

Burnt orange, with overwhelming aromas of sweet apricots and other exotic fruits. Beautifully structured and balanced. Perfect acidity. A beautiful, beautiful wine. 5 stars

Chateau Coutet 2007

A little bit too young and primary and lacked a bit of acidic cut and zip. 3 stars


The Mouton 1987 was voted wine of the night followed by the Pichon 88 and Margaux 81

My wotn was the Margaux, followed by the two Moutons 88 then 87.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Comte Flaneur »

This was the fourth autumn Bordeaux themed tasting and in my opinion the third best. I thought the best one was the 1989 horizontal in 2009, followed by the 1986 horizontal in 2008.

This might be my last because I am moving back to London around the end of the month. But I still hope to be involved in a 1982 horizontal somewhere next year.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by TomRippe »

Thanks to everyone for a great, generous night and thanks to Ian for organizing everything. Ian, I'm not able to post, as requested, as I left my notes in the restaurant, apologies. (these things happen after 20 bottles of wine) So I offer some random thoughts.

There were a few surprises for me, the main one being that almost every bottle was solid.

Right off I was very taken with the champagne, round, clear, very easy. I more or less concur with the notes offered; one difference being the 85 Cos. For me it was disappointing for about ten minutes, a bit thin and unfocused. But then it came together, gaining fruit, structure and strength. The 85 Gruaud had a terrific nose and that wonderful St. Julian fruit.

I didn't think the 83 Pichon showed well. 81 PLL was my wine of the night, 17 points. 88 PLL drinking very nicely, my surprise of the night. (though some sort of vague pedigree was missing)

The 81 Margaux and 88 Mouton just didn't move me tonight. Perhaps palate fatigue. I would love to sit with Ian and listen to him wax about the future of the 88 Mouton. 87 Mouton was my second place WOTN, 17 points.

What was up with the Ca. Cabs? Both a mess, unfocused to my now laser concentrated senses. (BTW, the Silver Oak was from Alexander Valley)

May we meet again.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by mek »

Image

Image

Wonderful to meet you all. Fantastic wines (my favourites: Margaux 81, Mouton 87, GL 85 and PL 88), terrific company and great food.

Still amazed at how the Canon fared "better" in the Eisch "breathable" glass.

A couple of pictures to serve as a small reminder of the evening ...

best,
mek
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Bacchus »

Sounds like a great time. Just wondering whether anyone detected any green/bell pepper elements in the '85 Cos? It's what struck me the most about the bottle I tried last week.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by mek »

With jetlag easing I thought I’d throw down a few notes whilst they are still fresh in my memory.

Some interesting and well articulated notes above, I am always surprised how folks can balance note taking and pleasurable drinking, and so I would simply and humbly add to those well crafted descriptions, as follows:

Thoroughly enjoyed the VCC 88 and was struck by its youthful bouquet: dense, deep plumy and with only subtle developed notes of tobacco and cedar. A balanced structure and great backbone, clearly one can see this will age well.

Jumping to the second flight, I was terribly impressed by the Segla and found it much more appealing than the Cantenac, having had late-90 and early 2000’s I was expecting more and rather disappointed by the Brane. Whilst the Brane-Cantenac stole wine of the flight from the Segla, and recognising it retained a vibrant and youthful robe, it just wasn’t complex enough for me. Roundness and complexity was more evident in the Rauzan, by my reckoning anyway, with its high notes of tobacco and an astonishing backbone and juiciness, just simply loved the silky tannins allied to a lingering and juicy acidity.

Noted just now a question from a BWE forumite, Bacchus, and whether one noted any capsicum in the Cos d’Estournel in the third flight. I did not. I did, however, pick-up an unpleasant savoury and metallic nose which reappeared quite strongly on the palate.

Am a big fan of Chateau Gruaud Larose, so for me both ‘85 and ‘88 were always going to be a pleasure to drink. On the night, the ’85 was my favourite of the two. Actually, ’85 was bally, bally good: beautifully balanced with tannins which were resolved and well integrated, a strong backbone to this wine which can only help prolong its lifetime for another decade (she says wilfully!). ’88 I found a tad linear, biting and foursquare.

The Pichons showed well, and of course, they were never going to let anyone down. That said, I could not get excited about ’83, though I noticed there was a lot of positive chatter about it around the table. Whilst I found ’81 unctuous and full of character, I decidedly plumped for the pure and simple enjoyment of ’88, which was zippy, spritely and had a rather wonderful wet stone, lingering finish.

Clearly and possibly predictably, I fell hook, line and sinker for the first growths, and yet wondered whether this flight should have preceded the Pichons, if only to experience the pleasure earlier and for longer. So, surprisingly, the stand out wine of the night for me was ’87 Mouton, which was perfectly balanced, subtle and yet had substance, full on the palate and beautifully satiny and silky. Out-classed ’88 by far and by my reckoning. Then, and of course, I enjoyed immensely the fragrant, soft plumy nose of the Margaux 81, opulent, polished and refined with supple tannins and a treat to have on the night.

Enough said!

Again, the evening was pleasurable and a fantastic treat, thanks a lot!
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Claret »

I am a Segla fan but never tried the 1983.

It sounds like I should hold off on opening my lone 1988 Mouton.
Glenn
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by mike reff »

This was a spectacular event and a large thank you to Ian for organizing. I have few notes, so I will post them at some point. Suffice to say, that Pichon never disappoints, and the Mouton's were amazing...
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Winona Chief »

This was another fine New York BWE event. Many thanks to Ian for putting this together and thanks to all the participants for sharing their treasures. Great to reconnect with old friends and great to meet Maureen and Salil. Nice selection of wines that mostly showed very well but no true stunning wine of the night in my book.
My seriously prejudiced thoughts on the wines, in my order of preference follow:

1985 Gruaud Larose - a perfect bottle, great Gruaud, the best drinking wine
1988 Mouton - very impressive, dense, aromatic, a complete wine, probably should have been decanted in advance
1988 Vieux Chateau Certan - a great wine in a good place right now
1981 Margaux - outstanding, mature and ready to go
1988 Pichon Lalande - another really fine 1988, really surprising how well the 1988s showed
1987 Mouton - fully mature, well-balanced, excellent, well above my expectation
1981 Pichon Lalande - another mature elegant wine ready to go
1983 Pichon Lalande - quite good, strong tobacco/coffee notes, probably should have been decanted
1983 Rausan Segla - impressive, rich flavors
1983 Brane Cantenac - nice smooth
1988 Gruaud Larose - good with some complexity
1985 Belair - good, smooth, simple
1985 Cos d'Estournel - a bit green tasting, perhaps an off-bottle
1985 Canon - another off-bottle
1988 Pape Clement - over the hill

Among the other wines:

NV Agrapart 7 Cru BdB - nice refreshing bargain ($35) Champagne
1994 Pape Clement Blanc - heading down hill and corked to boot
1985 Silver Oak Alexander Cabernet was nice enough but not special
1980 Beaulieu Cabernet Private Reserve very bad, over the hill with notes of grape jelly
2007 Coutet - sweet and luscious
1988 Lafaurie-Peyraguey - a good, fairly mature Sauternes but no where near as good as a recent 1988 Climens

Chris Bublitz
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Claret
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Claret »

Is there any truth to 1987 Mouton having an enhancement from 1986 juice as a send off to Rothschild? It was his last vintage.

I have never had the 1997 but it has always been reported as an anomaly from a tough and light vintage.

When I lived in NJ I had a friend who's father is a millionaire and has a wine cellar. John knew the combination for the cellar door and he hacked his father's inventory spreadsheet as we occasionally depleted his supply. Dad was away for the weekend or more when used their country house for great sleepover wine dinners. One member of the group those nights is now a MW.

We pillaged several bottles of 1985 Cos and while still young they were delightful. I liked it enough to buy some.
Glenn
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by salilb »

Mouton seems to really deliver in weaker years - had the 97 twice in the past year, and both times it was very impressive. A bottle of the 02 (not that I consider it particularly weak - then again I don't consider a bit of greenness a flaw, being a Loire fanatic) was also superb recently.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Like all conspiracy theories difficult to disprove Claret.

I am one of a minority who thinks that Mouton fully deserves its first growth status, and ranks right alongside the others.

I also think that Roger Moore was a better Bond than Sean Connery. By comparison Connery was wooden in his delivery of his double entendres.
Last edited by Comte Flaneur on Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by Comte Flaneur »

I was reflecting on Saturday - and thanks for all your comments by the way - and my abiding memory was Tom's 'rodeo swirl.' I wish we had it on video.

Not only is Tom an erudite and articulate wine connoisseur, he can swirl vigorously without spilling a drop. Left arm perpendicular, right arm out front, like a cowboy lasooing an itinerant bull, and in burgundy Riedels to boot. Quality. One of the high notes of a memorable evening.
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Re: 1980s Bordeaux event first impressions

Post by TomRippe »

Hunh? I was just sittin down the end minding my own business trying to take in all the frenzied glory.

Ian, you WILL come to NYC next year for the 82 tasting, yes?!
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