The seductive power of the mistress (not a spam)

[Nicklasss]

In the last 3 weekends, I had the opportunity to open multiple bottles of wine. As I'm excessively upset by what Crus Classés have become in the last few vintages, too expensive, I'm looking elsewhere to find good wine. In that period of uncertainty, this is the favorite time for ''the mistress'' Bourgogne, to seduce wine lovers. While Bourgogne Grand Cru and 1er Cru are expensive, the production is way lower than the great Bordeaux. Bourgogne has also another quality that top Bordeaux don't have, is that you don't need to wait 15 years before opening a bottle.

My last sampling, including some Bourgogne wines from the 2009 vintage, prove that 2009 in Bourgogne is ''in full seduction mode'' : the wines are clearly good Pinot Noir, with lots of lovely ripe characters, but still Burgundian. Example follow below.

2009 Mâcon-Uzichy Climat La Martine, Bret Brothers : A nice very convenient Chardonnay. Medium yellow color, the wine is basically fruity on the nose, with a mix of yellow apples, pears, pinneapple. Some freshness too. In mouth, same flavors as on the nose, medium power, maybe just a touch of stony minerals. Very good. TN : 87.

1999 Bourgogne from Sérafin Père et fils : I had the 2002 not so long ago and thought it was ''a revelation'' for a basic red Bourgogne. I found a bottle of the 1999, hesitated to buy it because it is 3 years older, but I discussed with a wine connaisseur at our Provincial liquor store that confirm to me that this wine could even take easily 1 hour decanting... proving to me it would be an intersting buy. I know that producer is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, and don't have too much problem to conceived that even if it is a Bourgogne AOC wine, the vine are from the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir. A superb basic Bourgogne wine. Medium dark red color, not even a sign of age on the rim. On the nose, everything is melted together into something complex : ripe red berries, flowers, earth, dark berries, spices, a very nice nose. In mouth, this is smooth, but still has some acidity. Still structured, but the flavors are kinda etheral as it is hard to define : incense, red flowers, rasberries, ripe strawberries, dark berries, soft ginger, medium long on the final that is also structured with mellowed tannins. A very good experience. TN : 90-91.

2009 Savigny-les-Beaune Domaine Pavelot : This Bourgogne has a lighter style, but is really genuine to it terroir. Nice medium red color, with a nose of roses, ripe red cherries, ripe cranberries and a soft touch of spices. Well done, less structured than the Bourgogne from Sérafin, it is a medium weight Pinot, drinking nicely, dominating flavor of red berries, cherries, with a hint of orange peel. Medium long, soft abundant ripe tannins. Quite good. TN : 88.

2009 L'Estimé Chassagne-Montrachet from Jean-Noel Gagnard : Another red Bourgogne, even lighter in color and style than the Pavelot, but very good anyway.Clear red color, nose full of little strawberries, sweet light rasberries, some white pepper and some vanilla. In mouth, this is light, but caressing. Not very long, but a decent ripe sweet kirsch cherry flavor, with some vanilla and clear minerals. final has a light structure, this is a ''pleasure'' wine. After a bad day, this is a nice Bourgogne to think about pleasant wine to drink, but not too seriously. TN : 87.

2009 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes from Anne Gros : Well, the two first 2009 Bourgogne let me with a feeling that 2009 is a generous vintage. Nothing aqueous or thin at all, clear fruit quality, making red wine quite satisfying. The 1999 was ''something else'', being ''too good'' for a basic Bourgogne AOC. That 2009 Les Damodes is fantastic. Medium red color, the nice color of Pinot Noir. Nose is very complex and charming, with something lush in it. All kind of red berries (rasberries, strawberries, dark berries, sweet cherries), with a good mix of spices and some noble wood. Very complex and appealing. In mouth, well, it is something that ''takes you completely''. Flavors are already kind of ''etheral'', with that complex feeling of being full but with elegance at the same time. Red berries, with rasberries and strawberries. Roses and light geranium flowers, also violets flowers. Sandalwood, and something spicy/piquant in mouth, maybe a light mix of black pepper with paprika. And the final is long, fresh, but still full of dark berries and perfumed flowers. A great pleasure to drink, complex already, and you know what, should be better in 4-6 years. TN : 93-94.

I also had two 2007 chateauneuf lately.

2007 La Bernardine from Chapoutier : A second bottle since this summer, and still a very nice Chateauneuf. Medium to firm red color. Nose is a nice mixture of meat, kirsch cherries, plums, and savoy. Some light game tones too, and licorice. In mouth, like the first time, still very balanced even with 15.5 % alcohol. No warm finish, of course this is quite lush, but the focus on fruit (cherries, dark cranberries, black berries), meat, olives, herbs and plum is an evidence. A touch of lavander or anis on the final. I like that very much TN : 92.

2007 Chateau Gigognan : A nice Chateauneuf, made on the ''modern'' style by the power it is showing. Also 15.5 % alcohol, but a bit warm on the final. Dark red to violet color, with nose of heat, dark berries, rubber, licorice. Strong nose. In mouth, this is very powerfull, strong licorice flavor, concentrated dark red berries, vanilla, some tar. Long warm final. Less balanced than the chapoutier, but will probably need 5 years to calm down, as the matter is there. TN : 89+.

The 2009 vintage in red Bourgogne, with that small sample, seem to me really interesting. The wines are quite balanced, with good ripeness, and very seducing. The 1999 was something special, and I'm impressed how good (and young) it was. I'll try to sample a few Bordeaux in the coming weeks, before the mistress bring me too far on the Dark Side...

Nic

[AlexR]

Hi NIc,

Thanks for sharing.

Yes, I hear you. I've turned away from the greatest Bordeaux myself, but then again I have a good stockpile.

Yes, I'm becoming increasingly intereseted in Burgundy too.

All the best,
Alex

[Jay Winton]

a sign of the times when Burgundies are regarded as value wines. I. too, am drinking more pinot these days but mainly new world.

[JCNorthway]

Jay,

Are there particular new world pinots you've found that are more traditional, and not the big fruity wines you often find in the central coast area?

[JimHow]

Yes, I'm becoming increasingly intereseted in Burgundy too.

All the best,
Alex

Wow!

[Jay Winton]

Jay,

Are there particular new world pinots you've found that are more traditional, and not the big fruity wines you often find in the central coast area?

on the advice of Stefan the Wise, I bought around 18 bottles of assorted 2008 St Innocent but these wines will need a while based on the closed bottle I tried. I may get some 08 Drouhin "Laurene" as that ages well. Also picked up a few 08 bella pente as well.

[JonB]

I bought a half dozen of the Laurene after trying it last weekend. A very different expression of pinot than St. Innocent, but both very good. I generally don't splurge for the Laurene as the normal domaine bottling is about half the price at the local Costco, and the wines are very similar, but in 2008 the Laurene seemed worth it.

I also have been dabbling with 2009 Burgundies recently, mostly exploring producer style differences in 2009 Bourgognes, but also delving a little deeper into Pousse d'Or.

Thanks for the notes, Nic.