TNs: non-Bordeaux stuff of some Bordeaux interest

[Otto Nieminen]

Čotar Terra Rossa 2000 from Kras in Primorska, Slovenia.

I have found Slovenia one of the most fascinating wine countries at the moment. There is lots of experimentation going on, and sadly some of it is with too much new oak (or indeed with stranger woods like cherry and acacia) to my taste. Yet some producers are making wines of great purity and style. What I have tasted of Čotar certainly goes in the latter category. I do have one criticism: the price (at least in Finland) is very high.

Teran 40% – Merlot 40% – Cabernet Sauvignon 20%; 13% abv; 34,50€. Aged for 5 years in oak; only 5000 bottles produced. A very interesting scent: lifted, deliciously and mouthwateringly herbaceous like Teran/Refošk tends to be, dark fruit and also some oak (but in such proportions that only a few of us will find it bothersome). Full bodied, sweet and ripe fruit, but with plenty of grip, very lively like "natural" wines tend to be, bright. Slightly balsamic on the finish. Despite my slight reservation of a bit of oak showing, I did find the whole very pleasing.

Mavrič Merlot Reserve 2003 Goriška Brda, Slovenia

A surprise: I loved it and I don't usually get along with the grape or this vintage in Europe. This was bright and red in its fruit with some sandalwood and nutty aromas that made me think of Sangiovese. Good, tannic structure, but with no sign of those harsh, underripe tannins coupled with over-ripe fruit that destroys so many 2003s.

Klinec Quela 2005 Goriška Brda, Slovenia

60% Merlot, 30% Cab Sauv, 10% Cab Franc; 1 year in cherry. Bright and red toned nose, very unique profile from I guess the aging in cherry, but the fruit is very pure and charming, and obviously a Bordeaux-blend. Ripe fruit, juicy, refreshing and youthfully tannic. Very nice and very lively!

Tulloch Sémillon Julia Limited Release 2004 Huntery Valley, Australia

11% abv; 23,10€. About a year since my last taste, and I still love it. It has the strong minerality that I like in Muscadet, but also a pungent green fruit, citrus and slightly spicy scent I so love in unoaked Semillon. Medium body, lovely acidity but certainly not the tart, sharp, painful acidity I read that young Hunter Valley Semillon should have. But it is steely and should improve though I did love it now, also!

Cape Mentelle Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Margaret River, Australia

13% abv; 23,30€. The back label states that this should have been drunk within two years of harvest. Soon three, but it's still going strong. The back label also says that this sees some oak - it must be only a small amount as it doesn't really show (and you don't know how glad I am about that!).

A very light gold; almost watery. The scent starts out with strong, grassy Sauvignon scents but with only a little time open, the Semillon, gladly, asserts itself. The result is a wine that smells more like the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had than any variant of Sauvignon. The palate is a bit round and smoother than I expected of the grapes (that must be the oak?), but it is crisp and even a bit mineral. I think this was a success, even though it doesn't have the huge personality of the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had. It shows an obvious kinship with the dry white Bordeaux that has come my way, except that I have found too many white Bordeaux heavy handed on the oak. In this wine, the oak was obviously judiciously used since I'm not complaining about it. Nice wine!

Can Camps Pedradura 2004 Penedès, Spain

Cost c.10€ in Barcelona, made from Marselan, a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache; 13,5% abv. This seems like an unlikely pair to cross, but this wine and the 2003 worked really well! The scent does show some of Cab Sauv's slightly greenish/herbaceous and earthy character, but it is also as sweet and ripe as one would expect Grenache to be. The palate is deep and refreshingly tannic, sweetly fruity with bright acidity. It seems to show the best sides of both grapes yet their personalities don't clash. Clean, refreshing aftertaste. For 10€, a great bargain.

Bodega Nofal Alonso 2003 Mendoza, Argentina

This was a revelation to me as I have never had something like it from South America. IIRC a blend of Malbec, Tempranillo and some others. Fully ripe, but not over-ripe and there is no new oak that I can see. Instead it is weightless but fruity as are the best "natural" wines I have tasted (though I have no idea if this producer goes for that philosophy). Meaty/bloody/gamy, red fruit, some sea-breeze - a very natural and unforced scent. Medium-full body, no oak, honest tannins and acidity, very light on its feet, almost weightless (the relatively low 13,2% abv for a special cuvée must have helped here) yet persistent. This is honest and unassuming and makes a very good impression me. More wines like this from the New World, please! I didn't really enjoy the cheaper Tunquelen-range, though.