But occasionally, I get the urge to dry the anti-Bordeaux; something completely different, more brash, more obvious, less cerebral. Although I was told by those who know better to stick to the old, the established, the aristocratic, the classical, I chose mostly to ignore that advice and try the much despised fruit/oak bombs and their ilk, just to . . . well, just to try them. So over the past year or so, here are my impressions.
- 2004 Bodega Numanthia Termes Toro Termanthia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (12/11/2011)
It's an oak bomb as much as a fruit bomb. No hint of losing its grip at age seven. It's delicious with the right food, like the grilled chicken with barbecue sauce. (92 pts.) - 2006 Bodega Numanthia Termes Toro Termanthia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (11/19/2011)
I just cannot resist this massive fruit bomb in the torpedo sized bottle. A swirling mass of mixed dark berries, toast and cassis. It's wonderful not just because of the intensity of the fruit but because it has that unique character of earth and minerals behind it. An extreme contrast to the traditional style of Rioja Jorge brought (Ygay and one other, both '95s). I understand the criticism that all sense of place is obliterated, but it just tastes so damn good, I don't care. (94 pts.) - 2006 Alvaro Palacios Priorat Finca Dofí - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (11/19/2011)
Delicious Priorat which was a great contrast to the classical Riojas Hugh and Jorge brought to Ola. Deeply fruity but not tiring at all. Sweet berries but thankly not overpoweringly oaky. (92 pts.) - 2005 Bodega Numanthia Termes Toro Termanthia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (9/5/2011)
Not a fruit bomb, just a fruit grenade. At first I thought it was too bland, but with time and air I could see there was an excellent minerally framework to the dark plum fruit so it was more interesting and complex than many of its peers. Not overly tannic, oaky or acidic so it can be drunk now, even if a bit subdued. (92 pts.) - 2000 Alvaro Palacios Priorat Finca Dofí - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (8/14/2011)
Very good to be sure and no signs of falling apart at age eleven. Dark color. Shy nose. Medium body, as befits a modest vintage. Lacks the intensity of the better young vintages, especially 2006 and 2005, but still correct. (89 pts.) - 2005 Bodegas Muga Rioja Aro - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (7/23/2011)
Seems to be softening, which is all to the better. Incipient blackberry and cassis. Medium weight but very pleasant black fruit flavor. The tannins are there but are becoming integrated. Not a blockbuster. This could be very special in a few years. (91 pts.) - 2001 Bodega Numanthia Termes Toro Termanthia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (7/16/2011)
Can Termanthia age, at least in the medium term? Yes, indeed. This 10 year old was an auction purchase from AMC, first of four. No lightening at the age. Not effusive on the nose, but an interesting blackcurrent, menthol and graphite combination. Very full on the palate as expected, but definitely not overoaked or sweet. The tannins are just right to give shape to the wine throughout the tasting cycle. Intense. By no means a simple fruit bomb. (93 pts.) - 2006 Bodega Numanthia Termes Toro Termanthia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (6/13/2011)
This famous supercharged Toro is fabulous if it's the style you want. Perfect accompaniment to barbecued grilled chicken. Thick, massively fruity, almost sweet but there's powerful tannins hold it together. If ever a wine deserved a gigantic torpedo bottle, this is it. The fruit profile is black, not red. The label says 15% alcohol but there's no trace of heat. Maybe the best fruit bomb I've ever had because of the firm structure, which keeps it interesting rather than fatiguing. (94 pts.) - 2006 Dominio Pingus Ribera del Duero Amelia - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (6/4/2011)
Yes, it's a fruit bomb of liquid blueberry pie, but irresistibly delicious. Fortunately there's enough tannin and acidity to hold it together, but I wonder how this will age. It's thick and jammy so my score is based on an optimistic assessment of the future. (93 pts.) - 2005 Dominio Pingus Ribera del Duero Amelia - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (6/4/2011)
There's a marked difference between this '05 and the '06 we tasted side-by-side. While the '06 is immediately luscious and fruity, this '05 is much more backward, closed and structured. There's an intense core of powerful but ripe tannins at the core which almost completely hide the fruit. While it may end up being the better blalnced wine in the long term, this needs another several years before it can be reassessed. (90 pts.) - 2006 Artadi Rioja Viña el Pisón - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (5/18/2011)
for BWE San Francisco 2011 - 2008 Dominio Pingus Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (5/8/2011)
I can't recall ever drinking a wine this young this enjoyable - in this style. The intensity of mixed berry fruit is simply astounding. Deep ruby, not purple and not inky black. Oaky, but not too much. Faint fruity fragrance. Flavors of blackberry, blueberry, dark raspberry, dark cherry and much more. Very jammy. Tastes sweet from the fresh fruit salads. If there any tannins, they are completely hidden. It would be easy to polish off the whole bottle in 15 minutes. (94 pts.) - 2001 Mas Doix Priorat Costers de Vinyes Velles - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (5/1/2011)
While very good, this 10 year old Mas Doix lacked the exuberance of the '06 and '05 versions I have tried within the last 4 months. The color was medium ruby all the way to the rim. I was disappointed how meek the bouquet was. Better on the palate and totally integrated fruit, acid and (minimal) tannin. Pleasant red berry flavor, rather simple with some welcome minerality. Easy to drink, but not memorable - and from a great Priorat vintage. (90 pts.) - 2005 Bodegas Mas Alta Priorat La Creu Alta - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (4/2/2011)
Typical Priorat fruitiness but with more plum than usual. Decent structure, smooth tannin and acid. But loses points because it's one dimensional. A good dimension to be sure, but not as interesting as some others. (89 pts.) - 2006 Bodegas Mas Alta Priorat La Creu Alta - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (3/27/2011)
Yet another Priorat winner; deep purple, big blueberry patch fragrance, not too oaky, some structure but very ready to drink. And yet I am having difficulty telling these wines apart, maybe because of their youth. (91 pts.)
Stuart
