TN: I tried to live without it, but I just couldn't

[sdr]

As a former fanatic and collector of white Burgundy, I was dismayed as were so many others when the premox disaster struck. I have not bought any for almost 4 years and poured dozens of bottles down the drain or bartered them with someone who actually likes oxidation. As a substitute, I instead bought lots of champagne, for which I am happy. I drank some California Chard, some of which I like very much (think Ramey), but still . . . it wasn't Burgundy. So I decided on a new strategy - buy nothing older than vintage 2009, no grands crus but good premier crus and plan to finish them by 2014. Here are my early results. Fortunately, 2009 is an excellent, forward vintage which doesn't need much time to peak. It's mostly Sauzet and Carillon because that's what I could find and they are, or were, top notch.

• 2009 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (1/27/2012)
  Terrific Meursault, er, Puligny-Montrachet. Gobs of pineapple and very ripe peach fruit but just enough acid to keep it from going over the top. Thick texture, dense and very rich. Close to New World Chardonnay. It's fully ready so the only question is how long can it live. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Guy Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (1/21/2012)
  These Roulot Pemier Crus are extremely hard to find and quite expensive and know I know why. The house style and the forward 2009 character make a good match. The color is medium gold, but there's no way the premox disease can attack a baby 3 year old, and it didn't. Very full and luscious with gobs of orchard fruit, tangerine, apple butter and peach. Thankfully, on the palate the acidity perfectly buffers the richness of the fruit and the oak is just right. There's no reason to wait more further development because it's already on display. Very Meursault, very delicious. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Louis Jadot Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (1/21/2012)
  Perhaps the Jadot style does not compliment, especially since they block the malo. The Gevevrieres is delicate, light, subtle and most of all, austere. I would have guessed Corton Carlemagne. Still, there is a white flower smell and a pleasant minerality on the palate, so not all is lost. Modest length. Maybe it will fill out in a year or two but I wouldn't bet on it. (88 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine des Héritiers (Louis Jadot) Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (1/16/2012)
  At first I thought I had a real winner because of power and intensity. Almost Meursault like in it's fat. But strangely it went south over the next half hour and turned a dangerously simple lemon juice water. Very odd. (86 pts.)
• 2009 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (1/14/2012)
  The striking characteristic about these '09 Sauzet Premier Crus is their amazing purity. Clean, delicate, supremely elegant. Asian pear mostly with Meyer lemon as the spine. So easy to drink now I din't have to worry about how they will age because I won't let that happen. (92 pts.)
• 2009 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (1/2/2012)
  Very tight, very elegant. White flowers, mountain air. A little too delicate, though. I hope it fills out because it could be outstanding. (89 pts.)
• 2009 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (12/17/2011)
  Quite a bit different than the Carillon version we compared it to. The Sauzet is thicker, denser and longer but almost mute on the nose. I think it will be better in a year or two. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (12/17/2011)
  Remarkably fragrant, the Folatieres is characterized by an intense white flower perfume. Light in body, delicate but interesting. It seems like it will not last and is fully ready now. (92 pts.)
• 2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (12/10/2011)
  Astounding open and good. Bursting with soil, dirt, hay. Doesn't sound that tasty, but it's a joy for fans of earthy burgundy. No way this could come from anywhere else on the planet. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (11/27/2011)
  I bought this on a whim after a painful hiatus from all white burgundy. Could I buy a new release 2009 to drink young be a viable strategy or do I have to restrict myself with California chardonnay? This is the answer. It's unlike any Cal Card. Beautifully elegant, slightly austere, delicate flavors of green apple and citrus, compulsively drinkable. What is missing is the complexity the comes only with time, only with bottle aging. Sadly, that is no longer an option so I will make do with this one young. (92 pts.)

[stefan]

Very nice!

My strategy is similar, Stuart, although I have not yet started drinking '09s. One side effect, partly good, partly bad, is that 1er Crus are better than Grand Crus, since the GCs generally take much longer to show their quality.

[JimHow]

Well done, Stuart, very well done indeed.
When I drink white Burgundy it is likewise very young (and usually very delicious).
New Hampshire usually gets good supplies of the stuff.

[RDD]

WHen it's good it's really good.
When it's bad it's really bad.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Tantalizing notes!

-Chasse

[Bacchus]

They still let them call that white juice, "wine?"

[Claudius2]

Guys
I bring Remoissenet white Burgs into Singapore these days and have never had a premoxed wine from that producer.
However, I've also bought WBs from numerous other producers in recent years (Bachelet, Morey, Chavy, Genot Boulanger, Faiveley, Boisset, several others) and I have found little evidence of the horrible premox in recent days.

The premox started based on my notes in the early 90s.
1999 seemed to bee the worst and some producers were a complete disaster.
I hoped it was over by 2000 but no chance.
However it has not been nearly as bad since, having had some 01s and 02s affected but the rate was much lower and I've not had a dud since then.
I am not saying that the problem is entirely over but it does seem better.