09 DC convention : the 05 Burgs and Friday night dinner

[Nicklasss]

For Chasse-Spleen, and all BWEers.

So, more than a week after, I'm reporting on the wines I had the chance to taste, during the full weekend of the 2009 Washington DC convention. I will come later with comments or proposals to do some changes/improvements for the next one. I fully agree that those conventions are kind of ''not too much plan'' for the wines choice, but at the end, can we enjoy and take time to apprciate a wine when you have a 20 mL pour? And that you have 6-10 minutes to evaluate/appreciate? I am exactly thinking the same for the people of BWE than the wines : less different people/wines, more time with each. So below, here are my notes and feeling, as many time, in the action, we don't take notes.

I'll start with the 05 Burgundies, in Jimhow room. Jim as been genrous enough to bring a full case of 05 Burgundies, to open them in his room, and we could virtually go there anytime Jim was there, to sample those 05 and share impressions. After the ''controversy'' of the 08 BWE wines of the years being the 05 village Burgundies, Jim wanted to rectify his choice, to the eye of all BWEers... I went to Jim room late Friday afternoon, Saturday afternoon and Saturday late, after the convention dinner. Even with 3 visits, I did not taste all the wines. I preferred retasting 2 times the same wines sometimes, to see how the wines would evolve with air and time.

2005 Volnay from Nicolas Potel : Was probably the best wine I tasted on day one. Dark redish color, with nice aromas of flowers, red berries and rasberries. Palate was medium to concentrated. Good ripeness of fruits. Rasberries, strawberries, light spices, aerial feeling at the same time. Mineral on the long finish. I thought that on day 2, it stayed almost the same. Well made. TN : 92.

2005 Volnay 1er Cru from Marquis d'Angerville : On day one, it was expected, not giving too much. A little bit lighter in color than the Potel, Sour cherries on the nose. Maybee something milky too. In mouth, strong bitter red fruits, in one block. But on day two, that opened nicely. Nose was complex and seductive. Still sour red berries, mixed with ripe red cherries, goosen berries, herbs, spices, Maybe a light touch of oak. In mouth, well this is balanced, long, and the perfect definition of Burgundy, with light to medium intensity, but long. Good acidity, fresh. Drink nicely. Still, it could probably developp more. TN : 93.

2005 Nuits-St-Georges from Méo-Camuzet : Well, this will need lot of time in the cellar. On the two days, almost the same. Dark red color. Nose is still in one block, with oak, vanilla, concentrated red/dark fruits. In mouth, concentrated, not really defined. But as it did not changed in 2 days, does it has a nice future? TN : 88+?.

2005 Volnay from Henri Boillot : I thought that was good, but too concentrated for Volnay. Why adding so much oak to that delicate wine? Dark color, nose of cookie dough, oak, dark cherrie. In mouth, medium to strong tannins, again good dose of oak, low acidity. Not Burgundian to me. Taste on day 2 only. TN : 85.

2005 Givry 1er Cru Clos Salomon from ??? (help me there) : Nice clear red/light purple color. Nose is not as powerfull as the wines from the North, but seductive with perfumes of flowers, ligth dark berries, herbs and minerals. In mouth, light style, but good red cherries, dark berries, and minerlas. Well, really good. Good acidity and tannic feeling on final, that is also earthy. TN : 90.

2005 Vosne-Romanée from Jean Grivot : Dark, almost black. Nose of concentrated dark berries, ashes, strong spices, licorice. This is concentrated. In mouth, of course the same flavors as on the nose, with a strong final of tannins. Long, grainy. I'm not a fan of those concentrated Burgundy. Probably needs 15 years. And Vosne-Romanée is not a AOC favorite of mine, as I prefer lighter style of Pinot like Chambolle or Volnay (same for Bordeaux by the way, I prefer elegance to power). TN : 87.

2006 St-Innocent Anden Vineyard (I think) : This one was good, but less defined than the best barrel below. It is more in one block and the creamy oak was more straigthforward. Nose of vanilla and caramel, mixed with ripe concentrated red berries. In mouth, seems bigger than the best barrels, so a little bit less elegance and slightly jammy. Wild cherries and oak. TN : 87.

2006 St-Innocent (help me there, their best barrel selection) : This Pinot was my second favorite. Dark color, nose full of fruits (dark cherries, rasberries), mixed with soft spices and a vegetal/earthy character (leaves) that make it complex. Way more interesting than California Pinot. In mouth, balanced, just sligthly more fruits than the Burgs, medium intensity, long final that is tasty, spicy and earthy. The earthy finish was comparable to the finish of the Jadot Clos Ste-Ursule. Nice acidity too. Should be even better in 5 years. TN : 92+.

2005 Beaune 1er Cru Clos Ste-Ursule from Jadot : I had that wine from the 1996 and 1999 vintages, but never found these one delivering what they should. The 05 was better. Color was medium red. Nose of light red berries, cranberries, orange peel, soft spices. In mouth, elegance in the fruit flavors, all kind of light red berries, medium intensity, but medium long really earthy mineral finish. Really Pinot to me. That was good, but I prefer the next one. TN : 89.

2005 Beaune 1er Cru Couacheux from Jadot : Same producer, same AOC, but what a different wine! Darker color. Nose is medium concentration of light sour rasberries, red flowers, dark berries and earth. In mouth, a bit more concentration that the Ste-Ursule, but still elegant. More rough/raw wine too me. Dusty rasberries, with violet berries, bit of licorice and a medium final on soft tannins. Seem to more less ''classy'' or ''winemaker'' wine. More an art work. TN : 91.

2005 Bourgogne from Lucien Lemoyne : I found that in a local wine store Friday, and brought it in Jim's room on Saturday. I opened it Friday night, after the dinner at Dino's, to have a last glass of wine before going to bed. Probably the most ''Burgundy Pinot Noir'' to me, in all the group. Purely caressing light style wine, but having the etheral density that makes Burgundy special. Probably the most ready of all wines, this is why it shows good. Light mix of red and purple color. Nose of light red fruits, perfume of flowers, cloves, purple raisins and ripe goosen berries. In mouth, light, good mix of fruit and acidity. Medium body, perfumy in mouth, berries, dark something, not long but earthy and leefy. I liked it very. So seductive and Pinot character to me. TN : 91.

There was some more, but I did not sample them. But all in all, a good number of bottles to figure out that 05 vintage in Burgundy.

Friday night at Dino's, I must say that I really liked the food. I thought it was a good balance between convenient cooking and light touch of fancy cooking. The mushrooms polenta was great (and it must be great when I say great, because I don't like too much mushrooms!), the cook cheese sandwich with anchovy were great, and the duck pasta excellent. And all that was doing a great match with the wines! The room was cozy, hard for the service, but still worked great. For the wines, it was mainly about Rhône and Italian, but some Burgs, Spanish and Bordeaux made their way to that dinner.

From the Champagne we had to start, I had only the Ogier and the Nicolas Feuillate rosé. And I preferred the Ogier.

2001 Kabinett from (help me here) : This Kabinett was just glorious. It was ripe in style. Extremely light yellow. Nose was glorious. Make you think why we do not buy more German. Complex fancy nose of oil, sweet lemonade, wax, limestome, other citrus, apricots. What a refined nose, with power! In mouth, a really ripe Kabinett as I thought there was sugar left. But I think it was the ripeness instead of the sugar. Dense refreshing wine. Mainly on some tropical fruits (apricots, light litchis) with lime and lemon, waxy and a long oily mineral fresh final. Long too. All in all, one of the impressive wine that night. TN : 93.

1996 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne from Guigal : I brought that as I never had a top Guigal Côte-Rôtie before. I thought it would be the right time... The wine was not as big as I would have thougth. But maybe because of the vintage? Anyway, it was a great great wine. Dark red color, nose was complex and developped over night : herbaceous spices, red and dark berries, rasberries, bacon fat, mineral, smoke. Typical from the AOC, but perfect balance between power and finesse. In mouth, invading spices (bbq and pepper), darkberries, more fruits, bigger with time but staying in balance. Long fat granitic finish. I could not taste any oak. Probably integrated. Hard to describe. This proved to me again, how great wines are Côte-Rôtie. TN : 94-95.

1998 Chateau de Beaucastel : As much as I have sometime a tough time with Chateauneuf, as much I like Beaucastel! Probably because of the complexity, Mourvèdre and balanced ''low'' alcohol (13.5%). Dark wine. Super complex nose, with animal touch, leather, herbs, spices, dark berries, currants, licorice. Name it, it is there! In mouth, same flavors as on the nose, but maybe less defined. Anyhow, that wine has 10-15 more years ahead of it and it will be great. Final is bit dungy and spicy. Warm smoky too. Well, a great wine. Just a notch rougher than the Côte-Rôtie. TN : 94+.

1988 Chateau de Beaucastel : Not as glorious as the 1998. I thought that was showing greatly anyhow. Yes, from a less regarded vintage, but a family link is clear between them. I found back the animal dungy feeling, nose of old licorice, dust, leather, red berries, and spices. Maybe slightly less complex than the 1998. In mouth, I would compared that with the 1982 Chateau La Lagune from Saturday night, perfumed in mouth. Flowery, dark berries, red licorice a smoky soft spicy finish. I like Beaucastel. TN : 89-90.

1990 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée : As much as I like the dark red color of that wine, even after 18 years, the nose of herbs and darkcurrants, spicy, the mouth is still strong, concentrated. I think, it will need another 5 years. But for me, this will never have the complexity of Beaucastel or the ''low'' alcohol'' character. A bit warm on the final. I'm sure some liked it more than me as I understand this was a special wine. TN : 90.

2001 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Laurence : I opened that one lately in the dinner so it never open up really much. It was a dark roasted berries concentrated with licorice. But judgment reserved. For the history, a bottle of this, drank in Miami this summer was great. What was the decanting time then?

1998 Barbaresco Falleto : After all the Rhône, this was on a lighter style. Dark red color, nose of darkberries, incense, licorice. Seems pretty dry in mouth, after the Rhône. Strong sandy tannins, good acidity, dark mushrooms and wet earth. Wild berries. Good. TN : 89.

1998 Barolo Falleto : After the Barbaresco, this seemed even dryer. Red with light brownish purple rims. Nose of old wood, violet flowers, and dark berries. Add light incense. In mouth, dry style. Tannic. Dry dark berries flavors, with cola. I'm not really reliable on Barolo as it is a style I do not understand yet. Not rated.

1993 Clos de Vougeot from Engel: Well, lost in the total of different wines, this did not helped that wine. And I had a small pour so did not analyzed it too much. But it was still an excellent Burgundy. Color was still dense red. Aromas of red and dark berries, soft spices (did I smelled ginger in that?). In mouth, smooth and caressing, nothing to hit your palate. All gentle and soft. Perfumed too. taste of earth, mushrooms, red berries, dark cherries. Flower petals. Decent finish. TN : 90.

1998 Chateau Pavie Decesse : My first wine from Perse. Dark red color. Nose is slightly jammy, with concentrated dark berries, red berries, currants, milk and spices. In mouth, not the ''monster'' I would expect. Typical minerals from St-Émilion. Ripe rasberries, dark berries, wet wood flavors. Final is dense and long, with ripe caressing tannins. Not big at all. Thick but not overdone. Let even say it is balance. More currants and minerals. I liked it. TN : 91-92.

2004 Numanthia, Toro : I went to that one late that evening. It has been decanted for nearly 3 hours. Darkest red of the night. Nose is big, but the nice element in there are balance. Ripe dark cherries, rasberries, brown sugar, smoke and light coconut. Of course, there is some weight there, but nothing vulgar. Mouth is full of ripe fruits, darkberries, dry clay earth, noble wood, sandalwood, sweet plums and a final that is long, thick and medium tannins. Mixed spices to finish. I thought that was really good too, and I had it last as I was thinking that having that first, would overhelm the other wines. But I like the style. Decanthing is probably important for that young wine. TN : 92+.

There was some dessert wines but I did not got any. I was drinking slowly.

This is about the 05 Burgundies and the Friday night dinner. It takes time to write in english for me, so will post my comments from the Saturday night dinner, in a few days. But something is sure, the best was to come! At the end, talking with Jimhow about it, we think that you can't compare Burgundies to Bordeaux. They are different wines and when we have both of them in the same weekend, you figure out that Burgundy is good by itself, or compared to other Burgundies. But Bordeaux is our passion, and Saturday demonstrated why...

Nic

[DavidG]

Wow, great notes Nic. I was having too much fun to pay a lot of attention on Friday, but I do agree with your take on the Rhones. The '96 Guigal La Landonne and the '98 Beaucastel were the standouts for me, though I gave the edge to the Beaucastel. I think it was my red wine of the night.

I was a little out of my league with the Burgs - too many too fast for someone who knows nothing about them - but I did enjoy the Volnays and the St Innocent. Sorry I missed the late night Saturday session - had to catch a plane to SF for a Board meeting Sunday AM. The Givry Clos Salomon was from Gardin-Perrotto. My lone contribution (other than an '05 d'Aighuile to hold up the honor of Bordeaux) to the festivities in Jim's room.

Still enjoying the memories of the weekend. Thanks for posting.

[JimHow]

I echo David's comments. Great notes Nic! It was a really fun weekend and it is kind of fun to think back about it a week later in retrospect. I've been obsessing about that Numanthia that Rick brought on Friday night. We had some great wines at that Friday night dinner, so dsifferent in their own ways but so much fun to drink. I loved them all, and it was really fun to sort of get adjusted to an italian only to then taste a rhone then get bowled over by that great '98 Pavie Decesse to remind us why we love Bordeaux so much!

[JimHow]

Also, back to Nic's comment about drinking Burgundy on their own. This past week I have had both the 2006 d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans and the 2006 d'Angerville Volnay 1er cru, both thoroughly enjoyable wines. It is probably overanalyzing to call them "cerebral," but I am absolutely convinced that I enjoyed them more by drinking them by themselves over several hours of dinner. Without doubt that's going to be the case as well with a Bordeaux or a Rhone or a wine from virtually any other region, but i just get the sense it is even more so the case with Burgundy. These Burgundies might get lost in a tasting with other wines, the same way a Lafite often seems to as well.

[Claret]

What was the German?

2001 Kabinett from (help me here) : This Kabinett was just glorious. It was ripe in style. Extremely light yellow. Nose was glorious. Make you think why we do not buy more German. Complex fancy nose of oil, sweet lemonade, wax, limestome, other citrus, apricots. What a refined nose, with power! In mouth, a really ripe Kabinett as I thought there was sugar left. But I think it was the ripeness instead of the sugar. Dense refreshing wine. Mainly on some tropical fruits (apricots, light litchis) with lime and lemon, waxy and a long oily mineral fresh final. Long too. All in all, one of the impressive wine that night. TN : 93.



The St. Innocent Special Selection seems to have been a crowd favorite.

[Winona Chief]

The Geman wine was 2001 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Kabinett - glad you liked it.

Chris Bublitz

[Tom In DC]

Wow, Nic -- you really were paying attention. I was having too much fun to take a single note!

I can't say that I think fewer people at the convention would ever be my preference, but more opportunities to get acquainted with folks seems like a great idea. The "Monument Walk" on Saturday morning was one of the high points of the weekend for us, as it presented a chance to stroll and converse with new friends as well as friends that we see way too infrequently.

Au revoir,
Tom