Some spectacular burgundies at Kittle House

[Comte Flaneur]

Jacques organised a gathering last night at Kittle House to taste a tantalising selection of burgundies. Besides Jacques there was his lovely wife Jill, Dale and Betsy, Pappadoc, Gio, Dave Beckwith and yours truly.

We all decided to take the five course tasting menu: scallops, haddock, duck (substituted for pork belly), lamb and selection of cheeses.

There was no messing around with champagne and straight into the whites...

Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998

Light colour still, bright and zesty popcorn initially on the nose, a little bit reticent initially because it was too cold, but started to open up nicely; unfortunately Pedro took my glass as I left it on the window ledge to warm up. Quite young and no sign of pre-mox (nobody around the table had experienced pre-mox with Raveneau anyway). Judging from Dave sitting to my right, it was really singing by the end of the night, in inimitable Raveneau fashion. 92+

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2000

Also a light colour; lemony overtones, citrus and exotic fruits, minerally and chalky; wisps of seasmoke and hints of sea shells; luxurious on the palate and lingering on the finish; hard to resist now, but still young. A terrific Leflaive. The estate produced some outstanding 2000s, this is a step up from the excellent Clavoillon. 95+

Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 1995

This had a slightly darker straw colour. A bigger, fatter and more buttery wine; but with a fine Puligny-steely backbone; this outstanding wine was a case of having your cake and eating it! Giovanni commented this was Batard-like…I couldn’t agree more…apparently the wine (not grapes) were sourced from Paul Pernot. For me it just pipped the Leflaive, for others the Leflaive just edged it 96

Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 1991

This was taken off the list (one of the best in North America) and Dave kindly insisted on paying for it...we debated whether to buy this ($75) or the Ramonet Ruchottes 1991 ($110). While this was not poxed, it was somewhat maderised; the nose smelt of sherry, but the palate was still interesting. After half an hour it started to fall off. NR

On to the reds…

Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 1996

This wine is young-vined Musigny jfyi, and you could tell straight away that it was not your average premier cru. Thick, juicy, brooding and marauding with intent, this adolescent was strongly perfumed with scents of violets. Great potential but take a look in 5-10 years 92 ++

Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 1996

A very different animal to its flight-mate; plenty of strawberry and cherry pinosity combined with farmyard, savoury and meaty overtones and a touch of brett, which was un-intrusive. Just about ready to drink. 90

Mommesin Grand Cru Clos de Tart, 1999

Corked unfortunately

Rene Engel Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot, 1996

Quite a big tannic, acidic and brawny style of wine; but nevertheless good pinot fruit and hints of undergrowth, earthiness and meatiness with balsamico and pine kernel overtones. Give this another five years to settle down. 91+

Thierry Violot-Guillemard Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens, 1998

Few of us recognised the bottle or the producer, but this wine was a revelation from a Cinderella vintage. Already accessible this had the muscularity of Pommard, but was refined, elegant, minerally and complex at the same time. A triumph. 94

Henri Boillot Pommard 1er Rugiens, 1980

A stunning nose of bonfire, cherries, forest floor, truffles, mushrooms, fungus, you name it; incredibly complex on the palate with overwhelming notes of mocha and coffee – the tertiary characteristics had completely overwhelmed the fruit that remained but this is how I like burgundy. A stunning mature red burgundy. 95

With the cheese course…

de Montille Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Le Cailleret" 2001

This was a rabbit that Jacques pulled out of his hat…and explained that this vineyard is wedged in between some grand cru vineyards including Montrachet. My notes had fallen off by now, but this is a fantastic austere but at the same time rich and structured Puligny that easily held its own with the cheese selection, which included epoisses. 94+

Thanks to Jacques for organising and to everyone for bringing some stunning wines. It was a fabulous evening. Very hard to go back to Bordeaux after this...

Disclaimer: points are purely for comparative purposes only, and the plusses refect proximity to maturity (no plusses = fully mature). The scores make no claim for objectivity, consistency or accuracy.

[Nicklasss]

Many thanks for reporting Comte Flaneur. Reading this make me feel like I would like to live in NY...

Burgundies are always interesting wines. It is fun to read comments about the 1995 or 1991 white and 1996 or 1980 reds. I would like to drink more white Bourgognes but find the prices a bit high. In white Leflaive is always good, but I'm amazed that the 1995 Drouhin what even better! Maybe I should buy more Drouhin and wait 10 years?

For the reds, Pommard is an AOC I don't buy often, but I found some 2005 Pillot really good lately. The 1998 and 1980 Rugiens you had seem fantastic.

Lately, I've been drinking more Bordeaux (red and white), but I know I'll go back to Bourgogne when it will be the summer warmest days, as I find the red more enjoyable than concentrated Bordeaux when it is warm.

Nic

[William P]

Very nice lineup!

[SteveH]

A splendid Burgundy dinner, in the company of the best folks.
Thanks for your notes.

[stefan]

Wonderful notes on a wonderful dinner, Ian.

>>
Maybe I should buy more Drouhin and wait 10 years
>>

That is a very good plan, Nic. In my experience, a mature wine from Drouhin rarely disappoints.

stefan

[jal]

Excellent notes Ian, this was a great evening and the wines were all awesome. I feel like a traitor to the cause. Only Bordeaux for me till Friday!!!

BTW, I am convinced the Niellon was prematurely oxidized. It should have been returned.

I thought all the whites showed off well.

The two Pommards were the most elegant wines of the evening, to everyone's surprise. The Guillemard particularly was impressive, especially for a 1998. The Boillot was delicious.

I don't think I left a drop in my glasses all evening.

[PappaDoc]

Save some money and buy Paul Pernots Folatieres, Joseph Drouhin company buys eight barrels of it from Paul Pernot and slaps the Drouhin lable on it. Drouhin also buys Pernots Batard Montrachet and does the same thing. I've asked this to the Drouhins two years ago at Zachys after I had read it in Matt Kramers Burgundy book, they said "It's true but please don't say it too loudly" with a smile.

I do think Drouhin make some fantastic wines in their own right owning some 131 acres of vines. Musigny, Amoureuses, Les Clos, Beaune Clos des Mouches, Clos de Vougeot, Bonnes Mares, and the Marquis de Laguiche are all superb examples of great Burgundy.

[Tom In DC]

For a white burg from the lean and mean 1991 vintage (I've had some nice reds), I can't see how it could be premature oxidation after 16 years...

[jal]

For a white burg from the lean and mean 1991 vintage (I've had some nice reds), I can't see how it could be premature oxidation after 16 years...

Tom, the oxidized wine was the 1999 Niellon Vergers. We almost ordered the 1991 Ramonet Ruchottes but didn't (Big Mistake!!)

[Tom In DC]

Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 1991

This was taken off the list (one of the best in North America) and Dave kindly insisted on paying for it...we debated whether to buy this ($75) or the Ramonet Ruchottes 1991 ($110). While this was not poxed, it was somewhat maderised; the nose smelt of sherry, but the palate was still interesting. After half an hour it started to fall off. NR

1999? That's a prem-ox'd hourse of a different colour!

[jal]

Tom, I stand corrected. The Niellon was a 1991 and therefore not prematurely oxidized (just plain oxidized).