TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

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Otto Nieminen
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TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by Otto Nieminen »

Domaine Gróf Zichy Cabernet Franc Szekszárdi Borvidék Barrique 2003

Baron von Twickel Wine Estate "Gróf Zichy" Cabernet Franc 2003; 14% abv on the bottle; 13,14% abv on the producer's web-site; 5,6g/l acidity; 2,4g/l RS; 21,60€. Since the label has Barrique on it and since the vintage is 2003, I hadn't bought this, though I am a huge fan of the grape. Now that it has been available in the special selection of our alcohol monopoly for months, I was told that I really must try it by someone who knows my preferences, and so I did. I am sorry I didn't purchase it earlier.

Image

Though from an unnaturally warm year, it is obviously Cabernet Franc from the first sniff. It may have darker fruit tones than the Platonic ideal of the grape, but it also has the lovely herbaceous, lifted, refreshing aromas that I want to find in this variety. The Barrique ageing is beginning to be very well integrated as I find its presence only when I look for it: a spicy aroma added to the sexy fruit that reminded some of us of Cheval Blanc! The fruit is still quite primary (but was still a pleasure to sniff), so I would like to see some further development.

It is almost voluptuously fruity and does, sadly, show a bit of heat on the finish (whatever the actual abv) - but those are the only indications of an abnormally hot year. The acidity is pleasantly mouthwatering and counters the voluptuous fruit making the whole very refreshing though I am not usually an admirer of primary fruit. The tannins are soft but noticeable and they also harness the fruit which, I sometimes feel, is about to break free and gallop away. The trial of whether the structure or the fruit prevails makes for an exciting drink. Nice wine.
Previously known as Geshtin.
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DavidG
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Re: TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by DavidG »

Otto, thanks for the note on an unusual wine. Cab franc has to be pretty ripe for me to like it, otherwise the herbaceousness is a bit much. This sounds like one I might like, but I don't think we see it in the US. At least it doesn't turn up on Wine Searcher...
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AlexR
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Re: TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by AlexR »

Baron von Twickel's Bulgarian Cabernet Franc?

Surely you jest...

Alex R.
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Winesense
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Re: TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by Winesense »

The Loire has nice Cabernet Franc dominated wines as well. I tried the 2006 Anjou Villages Brissac AOC Domaine de Montgilet. Pretty nice wine, not as powerfull as a Bordeaux, but nice with a meal. I rate it about 86-88.it is around 13$.

Of course there is also Petit Gravet Aine, which got more CF then Cheval Blanc and is IMHO qualitywise underrated. I was on a blindtasting with about 200 people 2007 in Bad Ragaz, Switzerland, where the 2004 Petit Gravet Aine was rated level with Cheval Blanc.
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William P
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Re: TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by William P »

Winesense, I loved the 2000 Petite Gravet Aine. I bought a 1/2 case and with every bottle I asked why I didn't buy more. Unfortunately, I have not seem it in the stores since 2003.

Bill
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Winesense
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Re: TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by Winesense »

Hi Bill, I believe you. I never had the 2000, but I have the 2002 which doubled in price due to the fact that all cheap sources are sold out. In fact, Petite Gravet Aine seems to sell out very quickly. I think this is quite a vote from the buyer:)
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Otto Nieminen
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Re: TN: A Cheval Blanc lookalike(?) from Hungary

Post by Otto Nieminen »

David, the herbaceousness is what draws me to both Cabernets! I love the refreshing, cool aromas! Nice that a single area can cater to such divergent tastes :) - though more to your's I think in recent years. :( ;)

Alex, where did you get Bulgarian from, and why should I be kidding?

Winesense, Bill, I'm now quite interested in getting some Petit Gravet Aine but have never, sadly, seen it here.
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