I’ve been fortunate to taste Château Ducru-Beaucaillou a number of times. The 1970 vintage is the Bordeaux wine I have tasted the most often, over 30 times, since it was the first “old” Bordeaux I ever drank, starting in 1978. Nevertheless I’ve not before drunk more than one or two at a time, so I thought it would be interesting to try a few more mature examples at once.
- 1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
Not for the first time a dazzling Champagne outscored a series of outstanding reds. The ‘96 Krug Clos du Mesnil has advanced considerably in the last two years and is now in early maturity. Drop dead gorgeous. Frothy. Epitome of elegance in Champagne. When icy cold the taut citrus lemon and lime come to the foreground, as it warms the toasty bread takes the lead. It’s never tiring because there’s always more to explore and appreciate. Sublime. (98 pts.)
- 2000 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
DrinkBordeaux’s bottle. Clearly a great vintage for Ducru, this 2000 is sweet and stylish. Loads of blackberry and dark raspberry fruit. Perfumed. Delicious. Very Left Bank. Still on the young side but no longer primary. Fabulous future. Graded conservatively for now. (93 pts.)
- 1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
A splendid example of 1982 Ducru Beaucaillou, which is frustratingly variable and inconsistent. This bottle I bought recently from a well curated collection at Wine Watch. Firm cork which came out intact. Beautiful amber garnet color. Fragrant. Black and blue berries with a hint of cedar, smoke and truffle. Well integrated tannins. Long clean finish. Perfect state of maturity with the energy of youth and the complexity of age. Glorious Ducru. (95 pts.)
- 1970 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
DrinkBordeaux’s bottle. A excellent bottle of 1970 Ducru, a wine with considerable bottle variation, even for its age. Sometimes it’s hard and bitter. Not this time. Tender for Ducru. Mellow. Intense finish. Lovely cinnamon fragrance for the first few minutes. Finally turned a bit coarse after 2 hours and a hint of rubber intruded. Very enjoyable up to then. (93 pts.)
- 1966 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
From a good looking bottle recently sourced from WineBid, verging on bottom neck, firm moist cork. A pretty amber color, no brown. Terrific perfume of black licorice and black olive as soon as I opened it, which unfortunately disappeared by the time I got to the restaurant. The first Ducru of the mini-series to display the more severe and stern side Ducru sometimes has, but that is a 1966 vintage trait. It’s far from dominant though and this bottle is really intriguing and complicated and rewards contemplation. The cerebral side of Bordeaux. After a couple of hours it turned marine as if it was plucked from the ocean bed. (93 pts.)
- 1961 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Upon opening, the bouquet was truly spectacular, an apotheosis of old Bordeaux. Old oak trees in the forest, burning embers, cigar, caramel, leather, Earl Gray tea leaves and much more. Intoxicating. The palate could not live up to the preamble, being more fatigued than the aroma and fully tertiary. Good acidity, structure and drive, though, just a bit too harsh. (93 pts.)
Stu
