Restaurant scene in Bordeaux

[AlexR]

It is somewhat of an anomaly that the region producing the finest wines of France has no three-star restaurants, as confirmed in the recently published 2019 Michelin guide.

Two have two stars: Le Pressoir d’Argent (“overseen” by British chef Gordon Ramsay) and Bernard Magrez’s La Grande Maison. But the third star remains elusive. In fact, there is only one three-star establishment in all of Southwest France: Michel Guérard’s Les Près d’Eugénie in Eugénie-les-Bains (Landes department).

Several explanations are suggested for this. One is that Bordeaux négociants and grands crus prefer to receive their clients and VIP visitors in the prestigious setting of a wine château, another that cuisine in Bordeaux tends to be simple and tasty (oysters, foie gras, entrecôte steak cooked over vine cuttings, grilled duck breast, etc.) rather than elaborate and fussy, perhaps because the best wines shine with the former type of food.

It came as somewhat of a surprise that the Boüard de Laforest family of Château Angélus, already owners of Le Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Emilion (one Michelin star), have just acquired Le Gabriel, overlooking Bordeaux’s famous Place de la Bourse and Mirroir d’Eau reflecting pool. The restaurant will be closed for six months for renovation.
Like many upmarket restaurants, Le Gabriel has a “bistro” part and a “gastronomic” part.
https://www.sudouest.fr/2019/01/23/gast ... 90-708.php
I personally have been to the Gabriel only once, but unfortunately found it to be an expensive disappointment. In light of its superb location and in the right hands, however, I have little doubt of its potential.

Other than Magrez and de Boüards, there are many other links between the worlds of wine and fine dining: Café Lavinal and Le Chapon Fin (Cazes family of Lynch Bages, etc.), La Grand’Vigne (Cathiard family of Smith-Haut-Lafitte, etc.), the Hostellerie de la Plaisance and L’Envers du Décor (Perse family of Pavie, etc.,), Les Belles Perdrix (Château Troplong Mondot), the new Chapelle de Guiraud (Château Guiraud, predominantly owned by the Peugeot family), La Terrasse Rouge (Château La Dominique) etc., etc.

A newcomer on the scene is Silvio Denz’s (Faugères, etc.) Hôtel Lalique restaurant. Open just a short while, it immediately earned one Michelin star and is surely on its way to at least one more. The link between fine wine, Lalique crystal, and luxury dining seems only logical.

The Chinese are not absent from the restaurant scene either. The new Quanjude restaurant has just opened in time for Chinese New Year. Well-known in Beijing, Bordeaux is the first European city in which they have opened a branch.

Above and beyond these expensive restaurants, there is a huge choice of affordable ones, some of which, like the well-known La Tupina, allow you to bring your own wine.

Curiously, according to the local newspaper, Bordeaux also has the highest percentage of fast food restaurants: https://www.sudouest.fr/2019/01/22/bord ... 99-708.php

Go figure!

Best regards,
Alex R.

[JCNorthway]

It had not really occurred to me that there are no Michelin 3-star restaurants in Bordeaux. It is interesting to ponder why that may be. It also sounds like there is some movement to up the game in some places.

[stefan]

Gordon Ramsay managed not to screw up Le Pressoir d’Argent?

[DavidG]

Nice review Alex.

Interesting that you see a potential connection between château owners wanting to impress by entertaining on site and the lack of top destination restaurants in Bordeaux. I would think that the growth of tourism in recent years would help change that dynamic. Now there are customers beyond the châteaux that can afford the destination dining experience.

I’ve never eaten in a Gordon Ramsay establishment. His behavior on TV (I realize he’s putting on an act) has discouraged rather than encouraged me.

[Ryan DB]

Great write-up, Alex. I have dined multiple times in many of the restaurants you listed. I have my own theory on this. Bordeaux is much more laid back than people realize. It is completely different than Paris, where 3-star restaurants abound. Three-star Michelin restaurants, as much as I love them, seem to thrive in larger cities. Certainly a 3-star restaurant would be a great fit in Bordeaux, but this is the city of l'entrecote.

The Michelin restaurants in Bordeaux are all very interesting, like Logis de la Cadène and Garopapilles. And while there are great chefs in the city and surrounding areas of Pessac and Saint-Émilion, I just don't think this is the climate where you will see many 3-star restaurants. Personally, I couldn't care less, as I absolutely love the restaurants in and around Bordeaux.

[AKR]

How much of a difference is there between a Michelin 1 star vs. a 2 vs a 3?

I've only very rarely even been to 1 starred venues.