TN on a Bordeaux imposter

[Claret]

I was in the mood for something really good after a few stress filled days at work. I was psyched through out the day anticipating drinking this wine with braised lamb shanks tonight. I pulled the cork and was immediately greeted by a heavy cedar scent, like an aged Bordeaux. The color was still red and starting to brick. With air the body filled out a bit and there was a lot of depth to the black and red fruits with character to spare. The tannins were fully resolved and the layers of flavor in the mouth with a persistent earthiness were impressive. Excellent balance with fine acidity. This wine is on the top of the aging plateau and should hold for a few more years.

Besides the cedar nose the other kicker was the earthy truffle flavors that I associate with Pomerol. If presented wth this wine blind, I would have guessed Bordeaux. Well it was an imposter from California, from Christian Moueix of Petrus, Trotanoy et al fame. I am of course referring to my favorite Meritage, Dominus. Tonight it was the 1992. I find 1992 in general for Napa Cabs to be under the radar, and this beauty is a solid 95 points for me.

Sadly I stopped buying Dominus in this vintage as the 1994 took a price increase to $45 and it became less of a value to me. I hear that the style of newer vintages has changed and the release price is much higher to boot. The 1987 and 1991 kick ass too.

Glenn

[Michael Malinoski]

I was guessing 90's Dominus before the end of the first paragraph.

Great note, Glenn.

-Michael

[AlexR]

I've served 94 Dominus twice blind in Bordeaux (incuding once to François Audouze) where it received high marks and did not make anyone doubt for a moment that it was a fine Bordeaux...

As for lamb shanks, I'd be interested to hear how you prepared them. People usually cook them in a pressure cooker here as roasting them doesn't tenderize the meat enough.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[DavidG]

Like the way you wrote the note. I was guessing Dominus too. I served the '94 to several confirmed Bdx-philes at the BWE convention in NYC in '03 and it garnered high praise there as well - from the likes of Francois and SteveH, among others. I remember paying $65 for the '94, and finally gave up due to price after the '97.

[Jay Winton]

We drank a great 1991? Dominus in Maine

[Claret]

Alex I braised the shanks in a Dutch oven. This is a favorite cold weather comfort food. The hardest part is trimming the shanks, otherwise just sit back and be patient during the braise. Make sure to use a large pot, the shanks can be big. I tend to cook by the seat of my pants and hardly measure, so I am sorry for not being specific on quantities.

Lightly saute a mix of celery, carrot and onion. Remove sinew and nasty bits from the shanks, and make a light circular incision in the meat on the skinny end of the shank before dusting them with salt, pepper and flour. Remove vegetable mix and brown the shanks on all sides in olive oil, about ten minutes. Add the vegetables back to the pot when shanks are well browned along with a bay leaf, some whole allspice and cloves, thyme sprig and a whole clove of garlic.

Cover the shanks about 3/4 of the way up with a 50/50 mixture of red or white wine and chicken stock. Bring to a light boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cover the pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer for 2-2.5 hours until the meat is tender and just about falling of the bone. Monitor the liquid level after 1 hour, and if it gets too low or thick, then add some more chicken stock. I serve it it a bowl with a fork and spoon to be able to savor the delicious sauce, sometimes over wild mushoom risotto.

Glenn

[sdr]

Glenn -

I braise veal shanks (osso bucco) almost exactly as you described for the lamb shanks. But I've found a huge difference if I make it a day ahead, let it cool to room temperature, then put it in the fridge for the night. The next day I can then skim off the firm coagulated fat on the surface, then gently reheat the whole mess until it's nice and hot, then serve after straining out the vegetables, herbs, garlic and cloves. The sauce/broth seems better than when trying to skim off the warm fat on a same day basis. I curious if you have tried it both ways.

~stuart

[Claret]

Stuart, I should have mentioned to skim the fat off. I do like the melded flavors better the next day, and the chilled fat layer is waxlike and easier to remove then.

Glenn

[Tom In DC]

Thanks for a great way to approach lamb or veal shanks! I haven't tried the "cook the day before" method, but I can easily imagine why it would make the dish taste even better.