2003 Bordeaux: freak show or legendary?

[Blanquito]

There's a recent thread on the site-that-shall-not-be-named about the Lascombes 2003. The poster is someone whose palate I respect. He HATED the Lascombes 2003 on release and for several years, and he posted note after note on what a trainwreck this wine was: over oaked, over extracted, overly alcoholic, overly creamy, over the top, etc. All that is wrong with modern Bordeaux meets all that is wrong with the 2003 vintage.

Yet he still had half a case, so he put it away (because he couldn't sell it!) with little hope. Surprise, surprise, a recent bottle showed this monstrousity shedding it's garish nature for something resembling Bordeaux and moreover, something resembling a delicious Bordeaux.

I've never had the 2003 Lascombes, though I bought 3 as futures based on Parker's effusive barrel praise, but the 2003 Bordeaux I know well are rounding into form. We had the Pontet Canet, Sociando Mallet and Duhart Milon at a BWE gathering this summer, and all three showed very well. Now, these are three of the best 2003s I had on release, so maybe they're no general indication. But I have to wonder: was Parker right again? Are the 2003s he recommended shedding their baby fat and becoming wines that I will enjoy?

I went long (for me) on 2003 Bordeaux after hearing comparisons to 1982 and 1990 from Parker, but I became very dubious after tasting many '03s on release. I've even repeatedly said this could be his Waterloo if these ugly duckings didn't become swans. But if even the Lascombes is coming into focus, is the dude right again? Any recent BWE experiences or thoughts?

[JimHow]

No recent experiences other than the ones you mentioned, Patrick, but I think you are right: I think these 2003s are going to be excellent in the end, and some of them are going to be downright 1947-Cheval-Blanc-like.

And i am not at all surprised about the 2003 Lascombes....

[DavidG]

To answer the question posed in your title: it probably depends on the specific wine. I bought selectively in '03, trying and hoping to avoid the overly burnt/roasted and excessively ripe notes that plagued a number of Chateaux. Not easy considering I had to depend on the notes of others who were tasting and reporting prior to release of the wines. The one wine I bought a fair amount of (for me, a whole case) was the Pontet Canet. Prodded in no small part by our very own BD. This stuff was great on release, but I suspect it is sleeping now. I'm not worried about the Pontet Canet, since we all know that Jim is infallible. Time will tell if I got more right than wrong on the other ones. It will still be a few years before I start getting into them to find out. Unless someone here tells me its time to start drinking.

Regarding the fellow whose tune changed, good for him for giving the wine a second/third/fourth chance! He was more persistent than I would have been, but then I don't usually open a lot of bottles that young. Then again, maybe he was pulling a reverse pump and dump to corner the market...

[stefan]

I am terrible at predicting what a young Bdx will become at maturity and am full of admiration for the pros, like Parker, who do well in this game.

stefan

[JimHow]

I just happened upon a tasting note on cellartacker that I liked....


2003 Château Pontet-Canet (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac)
Tasted by AlanC on 11/23/2009 & rated 94 points: Right in the wheelhouse! Nose not especially remarkable, but taste is like walking through a darkened doorway into a lighted ballroom. Unbelieveable richness in dark fruits--black cherry and blackberry-with a touch of cedar that just wraps the whole package as the wine slips off your tongue. Tannins are softening and sweet, and the whole experience is so pleasing. The window is now open for business. (127 views) Report issue, Add favorite

[JCNorthway]

I'm please to see these comments because my entire purchase of 2003 Bordeaux was the Pontet Canet - based totally on comments of folks on this site. So if you folks are wrong, look out!

Jon

[Blanquito]

I should add:
-it's too soon to know for sure, but maybe a clearer picture is emerging.
-these babies are likely to drink fairly early
-I agree with David in general, but wouldn't it be shocking if even the roasted, over ripe freak shows like the Lascombes become excellent?!

[DavidG]

That would be very cool, Patrick. I look forward to hearing what people have to say about these wines over the next 5-10 years.

[Claudius]

Guys
I bought quite a lot of 03s and have to say I have mixed feelings aobut them - and hope like hell that they become top wines.
having said that, the better wines like lafite, Montrose, Cos, PC, the Leovilles et al are outstanding wines.
Yet the vintage is a bit of a minefield and the lesser wines I've had were horrible. Burnt, dried out, tar like.

The vintage reminds me of 01 barossa.
Parker gave a few wines (Greenoack Creek et al) 100 points and I found them undrinkable young.
With age, they have either settled down and become quite drinkable - or else fallen apart completely and become even more horrible than initially.

My view is that if the wines taste roasted/burnt, tar like and lack structure young they won;t improve.
Try the 01 Greenock Creeks.
I tried the 100 RP point Creek Block on release and found it to be undrinkable, and I tried another bottle earlier this year and found it to be undrinkable....

Overall, this is a caveat emptor sort of vintage and I don;t think anyone can really predict its development.

[Houndsong]

Freak show or legendary? Is that what mathematicians call a binary outcome? How can you exclude the possibility that 2003 will be a legendary freak show?

[stefan]

Yeah, the zero-one law. You either go to heaven or to hell; there ain't no purgatory.

Padre Damien the Heretic

[Comte Flaneur]

I think estates like Ducru these days can make great wine come hell or high water.

The 2003 Ducru assuaged some of my concerns, but reinforced my notions of this freak show vintage.

And I can't sell my cases of Giscours and Lagrange (the worst Lagrange by a country mile) for love nor money. But I am going to keep the Pontet-Canet

[Chasse-Spleen]

I tried the '03 Lascombes close to its release. I would agree that it was quite roasted tasting, but I wouldn't agree about the over-ripeness. I thought it was quite dry. I'm not surprised that it's starting to show well, although in my estimation, Margaux appellation wines tend to take a long time to show their stuff.
-Chasse

[Blanquito]

I tried about 50-60 2003 Bordeaux on release, and the Lagrange was one of the worst by far. That would be an interesting litmus: how's the 2003 Lagrange drinking in late 2009?

[chris kissack]

I'm starting to line up a few for tasting, only a handful mind, but I probably won't get around to them until 2010.

Agree on early showings of Lagrange, although I did avail myself of the opportunity to retaste a year or so later and wasn't so horrified that time. Tasting notes follow:

In October 2005: Chateau Lagrange (St Julien) 2003: Whoa! An unusual nose here; confected, cola-aniseed-cherry nose with a lifted, estery nature. Rather light on entry, but picks up through the midpalate, with some rounded morello cherry fruit and firm tannin. Little in the way of presence or texture, and incongruous acidity. What's gone wrong here? One to avoid. 13/20

In November 2006: Chateau Lagrange (St Julien) 2003: Since my last tasting of this when the wine seemed very unusual, at the UGC tasting in October 2005, I have been eager to try it again. Today, this seems like a different wine. On the nose it has a wealth of deep fruit, with quite an exotic perfume and it is very attractive. I find it difficult to believe that this is the same wine that I tasted last year. Good style on the palate too, very nicely composed, although with the huge grip of tannins typical of the vintage. But there is decent acidity too, and on the basis of this bottle this seems to have a very good potential, but as always I damp down my score...I am still worried that the tannins will outlast the fruit in this vintage. But the big question with this wine is what was going on in 2005? And what will the next bottle taste like? 16+?/20

I haven't tasted it since, and don't have any in the cellar.

[RDD]

I bought selectively from 2003:
Leoville Barton
Calon Segur
Pavie- Macquin

I think all will be great given time. In fact, I'll go out on a limb and say the Pavie-Macquin will be legendary.

[Gerry M.]

In 2003 I bought into the RMP hype and picked up 3 mixed cases consisting of:

Giscours
Branaire
La Lagune
Lagrange
Leoville Barton
Leoville Poyferre
Montrose
Pichon Lalande
Pontet Canet
Saint Pierre
Latour Blanche
Suduiraut

The only bottle I've opened was a Latour Blanche that was quite promising but the rest I think will have to sit for quite a while. The notes on Lagrange have been Jeckel-Hyde in nature.

[Michael Malinoski]

The only red 2003 I've had the temerity to open recently has been the '03 Rauzan-Segla, which was quite good after about a 6 hour decant. Still showing a good dose of wood, but none of the roasted over-the-top qualities one might be worried to find in such a vintage. I think it is going to be very good indeed.

Gerry, nice cross-section there and very little overlap with my modest stash (Malescot St Exupery, Pontet Canet, Smith Haut Lafite, Duhart Milon, Fombrauge, Lafon Rochet). A little cross-tasting some time down the road should be in order!

-Michael

[William P]

In another thread Jim requested a comparison between the 82's and the 00's. Here's my unprofessional take on the 82 v 03. The 82s never showed the oak or the "sweetness" the the 03 showed. 82 for the most part never shutdown which I cannot say of the 03. The 82 were full bodied and concentrate but not roasted or bloated. I also think there was better balance in 82 but, as I recall, the big complaint of worry with the 82 was "low acidity". I never found that to be a problem in 82 but I did in many 03s. I don't have a clue where they will go. I think the better balanced wines of the vintage will be unique and fantastic but that's pure speculation.

Now regarding my 03, this was a year that I bought selectively.

Pontet Canet, big purchase.
Duhart, medium purchase.
sampling purchases of:
Sociando, M. St. Exupery, Leoville Poyferre
and a few single bottles like Lascombes.

[Comte Flaneur]

I had the Lagrange a few months ago. And it is still an awkward ugly duckling.

[Claudius]

Houndsong,
the vintage WAS a freakshow based on the weather.
I was in Europe during the 03 vintage and it was unbeleivably hot.
Many of the vineyard areas got weather over 50 degrees C (I'm talking about over 120F) and in most areas it was the hottest recorded temps ever.
I think in Bordeaux, it was the hottest since 1897 or something.

That does not make the wines a freakshow but it does make them exceptional (whether you see it as good or bad is a matter of opinion).

[DavidG]

I recall all the talk about the record-breaking heat that year, and not only its effect on the '03 vintage but the potential for cooking wines that were already in bottle or shipping during that summer.

[Blanquito]

We defintely need a BWE 2003 horizontal in another 4-5 years, maybe one of the Comte du Flaneur's NYC gatherings.

For the money, I still think the Duhart Milon is tremendous stuff. It drinks well
now and for another 10+ years.

[DavidG]

In addition to a case of Pontet Canet, in '03 I bought a couple of bottles each of Branaire Ducru, Calon Segur, Cos d'Estournel, Monbousquet, Pavie, and Pichon Lalande. I've got enough of the Pontet Canet to sample now and then, but I'll probably wait at least another 5 years before opening any of the others. I like the idea of an '03 tasting, but only after the wines have had enough time to be able to strut their stuff.