2014 Domaine de Chevalier

[Nicklasss]

First i like the unicity of that estate, call "Domaine" instead of "Chateau", not common in Bordeaux. The owner, M. Bernard seems to be one of the most enthusiastic owner in Bordeaux, especially when you read dinner that Alex and Izak attend at Domaine de Chevalier. I discussed with Mr. Bernard in the UGC Montréal 2018, and he was a very nice person to discuss with.

Now the wine. Being a Grand Cru Classé de Graves, you know the terroir is normally a great one. Bizarrely, it is not a wine i tried that often, even if this wine has an excellent reputation as producing real complex genuine traditionnal Graves wines. But i believe others here that had some Domaine de Chevalier with some age and been completely impressed and satisfied, as the wines from Graves are so balanced, that they go through time with conviction.

I also know that like many in Bordeaux, Domaine de Chevalier has been taking the modern twist, while staying traditionnal (they all say that!), but like always, you have to try the wine to figure out yourself.

I decanted the 2014 Domaine de Chevalier for 3 hours. I didn't want it to be too closed or feel to young. And I match it with a superb meal, a moose roast with a light thyme and green pepper sauce. The game meat would probably be a good match, with the wine. The wine has a perfect (i mean really perfect) clear medium red color. The nose has medium power, but is interesting with blackberries, currants, light smoky meat, very light oak and light powder rocks. That last one, i can pick it easily as i liked to hit granite rockwall with a hammer when I was young. Medium to refined delicate nose. In mouth, even with air, the wine tasted young. The flavors are nice, with concentrated red berries, spicy red cherries, slightly glossy fruit. But combined with muscad spices, some vanilla oak, with a dry long tannic mineral finish. Acidity feels a bit artificial, the 13.5 % alcohol is just appearing at the very very end, with something black like dry plums. There is a little bump down in flavors on the midpalate, but the wine remains with elegance. It was an excellent match with the moose and sauce. Really merging beautifully with the meal. Way better with the meal than on his own. At the end, I think it is an excellent wine, and i probably tried it at a not too good age. Last week 2005 Chateau Duhart Milon moved me more (i know, better vintage and already 15 years old), but that young 2014 Domaine de Chevalier is true to the Graves, with just a good touch of modernity, but the balanced and stuff is there to improved in the next 8-15 years. Tn: 91+.

Nic

[Nicklasss]

Moose roast

[Nicklasss]

It was a delicious match. Especially with MC who also thought the match was great. Thanks life!

[JimHow]

Wow. That looks amazing.

[jckba]

Nic, that moose roast looks delicious and I too am a fan of the 2014 DdC and so much so that I went out and bought a case after having tasted it.

[JimHow]

See now that’s the type of dish that I can easily see a young six year old Bordeaux from a vintage like 2014 be a perfect match.

[OrlandoRobert]

WOW what a killer post!!! I would love to try moose. Love me sum stinky game meat. I have that 2014 DDC, so thanks for checking in, and writing a most awesome detailed note!

[Comte Flaneur]

Dinner for one Nic?

Great write up, a tad too modern? It seems sensible to peg DDC as a third.

[jal]

Great note, Nic. I have not had DDC in years and yet always loved the wines. I will try to find a bottle.

[William P]

Great note Nic. I have a few of the 2014 DdC resting in the cellar. I'll give them a few more years before I test them. Sadly, the meat accompaniment will not be moose.

Bill

[s*d*r]

Is moose a First Growth meat?

[Nicklasss]

Dinner for one Nic?

Great write up, a tad too modern? It seems sensible to peg DDC as a third.

Good question Comte. Marie-Claude is not a big fan of game meat. But she ate some of that roast with me and adored it! And she pointed out the great match with the wine, before I even said anything that way.

But we killed that 2.5 years old moose first week of October, in an area with mainly leafy trees. I think it one of of the best age, combined with the best diet for that type of animal. I guess i understand now why the wolves want to eat the mooses!

I heard an older animal, eating trees with needles, is way less interesting or refined, so I guess our beast is really First Growth, to answer SdR's question.

[JimHow]

I have told this story before, how we were in a restaurant in Quebec City, it would have been around 1999, we had a big rich duck flame meal, I ordered 1994 Mouton off the wine list, it was jet black, big, tannic, beastly... and oh so heavenly with the duck.

That's what I'm imagining that DDC was like with the moose, a beautiful big, black six year old Bordeaux with that meat.
My mouth is literally salivating as I write this.

[JoelD]

I am jealous of moose Nic. I have never tried and want to. Does sound like a great pairing. Although I have found the 2014 to be a bit closed, even with a 3 hour decant.

I don't see much marbling on that cut, are there nice fatty cuts around the ribs? ribeye? that would sound heavenly to me.

[Nicklasss]

Hi Joel.

Moose meat doesn't have much fat. I did not checked the "faux-filets" that i would guess might have a bit of fat. But it will be very limited because even the grounded meat, made normally with fatter parts don't have much fat. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow as we're eating moose burgers.

But the meat is almost as red as a young Bordeaux, lot of iron, and a specific taste that even without fat, is quite good. And of course, you must limit the cooking time to "just before medium rare" at the most, because if well done, will be very stiff.

Nic

[JoelD]

Hi Joel.

Moose meat doesn't have much fat. I did not checked the "faux-filets" that i would guess might have a bit of fat. But it will be very limited because even the grounded meat, made normally with fatter parts don't have much fat. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow as we're eating moose burgers.

But the meat is almost as red as a young Bordeaux, lot of iron, and a specific taste that even without fat, is quite good. And of course, you must limit the cooking time to "just before medium rare" at the most, because if well done, will be very stiff.

Nic

Interesting. I would like to try it sometime. Although no idea when that will be, as I have never seen it on a menu before. Have you tried cooking it reverse sear style? so perfect for getting meat cooked that perfect rare-medium rare.

Reverse seared steaks to me, are what VCC is to MarkG!

[JoelD]

Just had this bottle tonight, after having the 2010 the night before.

Both wines are clearly too young, and a little backwards. However the 2010 benefitted from a 2+ hour decant. And the 2014 had an amazing change between the 3-4 hour mark of decanting. the tannins eased off and the sweet fruit showed so much better. I believe the 2014 will end up being the better wine of the two. But I'll let my other bottle rest for another 5 years.

[Nicklasss]

Here are 3 patties of grounded moose vs 1 of beef.

Not much fat on the moose and the color is way darker. It was delicious in burgers.

[Nicklasss]

2014 Domaine de Chevalier!

[ericp]

Chef Nic!

Great notes on DdC, also a wine I have rarely drank over the years, but did order some 19 last week. The moose roast looks amazing, it must have been fabulous. Hard to get down my way in any form.

Eric