(NYT) Dining: This Summer, Make It Chianti Classico

[AKR]

Dining: This Summer, Make It Chianti Classico
2021-06-08 16:43:31.338 GMT

By Eric Asimov

(New York Times) -- Here’s my wine for the summer: Chianti Classico.

I know, it’s not what people usually imagine as a summer wine. It’s red, for
one thing. Sunny days, sweaty nights and poolside tables are the regular
haunts of rosés and whites.

I’ve always resisted the notion that seasons alone dictate what’s best to
drink. It’s the food at least as much as the weather.

The weather influences the weight and heft of what we cook and the sorts of
ingredients that are available. The heavy stews and casseroles of winter give
way to glorious salads and food cooked outdoors over coals. Even in the
summer, certain dishes call out for reds, and the one I often want now is
Chianti Classico.

Partly this is because I have a crush on the sangiovese grape, the crucial
constituent of the wine. Sangiovese in its Chianti Classico form is a great
match for steak, burgers, sausages and even grilled chicken. It has the depth
to match their flavors, with enough acidity to refresh. And it takes nicely to
a light chill — say, 20 minutes in the fridge or an ice bucket.

Other Italian wines are based on sangiovese, including Brunello di Montalcino
and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which, like Chianti, are from Tuscany. It’s
a popular grape in Emilia-Romagna to the north and in the Marche to the east.

But as much as I like these other wines, right now I’m obsessed with Chianti
Classico. I find a lightness, purity and eloquence to the wines that in my
mind sets them apart from other sangiovese wines.

Recently, shopping online in New York City, I picked out a dozen Chianti
Classicos that will be great this summer, or for the next few years at least.
Let me be more precise: I found 10 Chianti Classicos and two bottles that are
Chianti Classicos in every way but name, their producers having chosen not to
use the appellation for personal or historical reasons.

Chianti Classico is the historic heart of a larger Chianti region in the hilly
area between Florence and Siena. Outside of the Chianti Classico area other
wines can be labeled plain Chianti or, if they come from within seven subzones
they can append a local designation. Those include: Chianti Rùfina, Chianti
Colline Pisane, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli
Fiorentini, Chianti Montespertoli and Chianti Montalbano.

Those wines can be good, but in my experience few have the finesse or beauty
of Chianti Classicos.

Even within the Chianti Classico category, different wines can offer very
different expressions. Some can be almost achingly ethereal while others are
richer and more substantial.

Some may be structured and tannic enough to wait a few years before drinking.
Others are easygoing and ready to drink upon release. The best are fine and
transparently express their origins, often with sweet, earthy and bitter
flavors of cherries and flowers.

Long gone are the days in the 1960s when the local wine authorities mandated a
maximum of 70 percent sangiovese in Chiantis and required that white grapes be
blended in. Nowadays, Chianti Classico must be 80 percent to 100 percent
sangiovese, with the rest made up of local grapes like canaiolo, colorino or
malvasia nera; international grapes like merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah;
or a combination.

With rare exceptions, sangiovese works best with the local grapes. Too often,
the international grapes insert a discordant note — the chocolate of merlot,
for example, that can seem out of tune. Yet one of my recommended bottles does
have some merlot in its blend, and I was not able to notice it.

What accounts for the differences in the wines? The region is a complicated
jumble of soils, vineyards, elevations and microclimates, which can make wines
grown in neighboring towns remarkably dissimilar. The differing intentions of
the farmers and winemakers is also a crucial factor.

Chianti Classico is divided into eight subzones (it used to be nine, but in
2019 Barberino Val d’Elsa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa merged and is now
referred to as Barberino Tavarnelle), and a debate has long raged whether to
permit producers to use these subzones on their labels. Proponents argue it
will help consumers gain a sense of the character of a wine, while opponents
say the variables are too many and that geographical divisions are too simple.

It’s possible both sides are correct. But I believe more information is
better, and I have certainly noticed some correlation between subzones and
styles. The wines from Radda in Chianti, for example, seem to be elegant, with
great finesse, while those from Castelnuovo Berardenga are often richer and
weightier.

The other five subzones are Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa,
Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti and Poggibonsi.

Chianti Classico comes in three levels: Chianti Classico, which requires 12
months of aging before release, Chianti Classico Riserva, which requires 24
months of aging and Gran Selezione, which can only be made from estate-owned
grapes and requires 30 months of aging.

I have focused on the straightforward Chianti Classicos, often referred to
informally as “normales” to distinguish them from the riservas and gran
seleziones. I find that the normales are the least likely to be burdened with
the aromas and tannins of new oak barrels and offer an immediate, unmediated
purity. Wines in the other categories can be wonderful, but may require a lot
more aging before realizing their potential. They are also a lot more
expensive.

A Dozen Bottles From Tuscany

Here are my 12 suggestions, in order of price. Many more excellent Chianti
Classicos are out there, which for one reason or another I did not find. They
include Caparsa, Castellinuzza e Piuca, Monte Bernardi, Isole e Olena, Lecci e
Brocchi and Castell’in Villa.

Candialle Chianti Classico La Misse di Candialle 2017 $24

Josephin and Jarkko Peranen, a German-Finnish couple who own Candialle,
practice regenerative agriculture at their small estate near Greve. La Misse
di Candialle is 90 percent sangiovese, with 5 percent each of canaiolo and
malvasia nera, fermented and aged in concrete vats. This lovely wine has
spicy, peppery flavors of red cherries and flowers, with firm tannins that
will soften with a few years aging. (Bowler Wine, New York)

Istine Chianti Classico Vigna Istine 2018 $24

This tangy, energetic Chianti Classico is 100 percent sangiovese from a
high-altitude, organic vineyard in Radda, where the soils are a mix of
limestone marl, sandstone and schist. It is fermented in concrete vats and
aged a year in Slavonian oak, followed by another year of aging in the bottle.
It is fresh and graceful, floral and elegant. (Soilair Selection, New York)

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Berardenga 2018 $25

Like the Vigna Istine, the Fèlsina Chianti Classico is 100 percent sangiovese
and comes from a mixture of soils. Yet it is bigger and rounder than the
Istine, with firmer tannins and earthy, stony flavors of ripe red fruits. Many
variables could account for the differences, but significantly, the Fèlsina
vineyards are at a lower altitude in the Castelnuovo Berardenga area. This
excellent wine will improve with a few more years of age. (Polaner Selections,
Mount Kisco, N.Y.)

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Lamole 2017 $28

In 2000, Susanna Grassi returned to her largely abandoned family estate in the
Greve area and started I Fabbri. Her vineyards are relatively high, 1,900 to
2,000 feet, and she farms organically. The Lamole, 100 percent sangiovese and
aged in concrete tanks, is fresh, light, pure, floral and elegant, even in a
hot vintage like 2017. (Volcanic Selections, New York)

Pruneto Chianti Classico 2016 $29

This wine, from a tiny estate with high-elevation vineyards in Radda, is an
exception in this group, because in addition to 95 percent sangiovese it
contains 5 percent merlot. Unlike other wines with international grapes in the
blend, I could not detect any influence in the wine, which was bright, juicy
and vibrant, with pure flavors of red cherries and dusty tannins. Riccardo
Lanza, the proprietor, is essentially a one-person operation. He farms
organically, ferments in concrete vats and ages the wine in large oak barrels.
(Coeur Wine Company, New York)

Montesecondo Chianti Classico 2018 $30

Silvio Messana farms his Montesecondo estate in San Casciano biodynamically.
His lovely Chianti Classico is 90 percent sangiovese, with 5 percent each of
canaiolo and colorino, blended from two sites and aged in concrete vats. It is
spicy, pure and vibrant, with lively, stony, lingering flavors of red fruits
and fine tannins. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)

Monteraponi Chianti Classico 2018 $30

The Chianti Classicos at this excellent estate, with high-elevation vineyards
in Radda rich with limestone marl and schist, are superb year in and year out.
The 2018 is substantial yet fresh, lithe and graceful, with earthy, stony
flavors of red fruits. It is 95 percent sangiovese and 5 percent canaiolo,
fermented in concrete vats and aged in large oak barrels. (Grand Cru
Selections, New York)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2017 $45

This large, well-known estate, owned by the Manetti family, has
lower-elevation vineyards in Panzano near Greve. Fontodi farms organically,
and its Chianti Classico is 100 percent sangiovese, fermented in tanks and
aged in older barrels of French oak. The 2017 is rich and expressive,
structured and linear, with fine tannins and flavors of dark cherry and
flowers. (Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, N.Y.)

San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 2018 $54

The Martini di Cigala family has owned this estate in Gaiole for generations.
This elegant Chianti Classico is made from 95 percent sangiovese and 5 percent
canaiolo, all farmed organically. It is rather high in alcohol at 14.5
percent, yet it paradoxically seems light-bodied, with pretty flavors of
cherries, flowers and herbs, and fine tannins. (Vinifera Imports)

Cigliano di Sopra Chianti Classico 2017 $56

Maddalena Fucile, with the help of Matteo Vaccari, restored the vineyards of
her old family estate in San Casciano, the area of Chianti Classico closest to
the city of Florence. They farm biodynamically, ferment in steel tanks and age
in big barrels of French oak. This juicy, earthy wine is 100 percent
sangiovese, with chalky tannins and red fruit and floral flavors. (Volcanic
Selections)

Le Boncie Toscana Le Trame 2017 $60

Giovanna Morganti farms her small estate outside Castelnuovo Berardenga
biodynamically. While her wines qualify as Chianti Classicos, she stopped
using the appellation a decade ago, rejecting the bureaucratic details
required. Regardless, her wines are pure, bright, fresh and juicy, with
bracing acidity and lingering flavors of red fruit and flowers. They are
almost entirely sangiovese, with tiny amounts of mammolo and foglia tonda, a
rarely seen local grape, in the mix. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York)

Montevertine Toscana 2017 $68

Like Le Boncie, Montevertine, near Radda, does not use the Chianti Classico
appellation, though it would qualify. Its reasons are more historical, though.
In the 1970s, Montevertine decided it could make better wines without
following the blending rules that then governed the region. In rebellion, it
stopped using the appellation. Chianti Classico has come a long way since,
changing its rules to accommodate wines like Montevertine. But Montevertine
persists in its independence. This superb wine, 90 percent sangiovese and 5
percent each of canaiolo and colorino, is rich yet tapered and precise,
beautifully balanced and elegant, with stony flavors of red fruit and flowers.
It will gain complexity and nuance with aging. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant)

[JimHow]

Sipping a 2017 Felsina...

[Claret]

I find the quality level to be higher in CC Normale than in generic Chianti. With the bright acid it matches up to a wide variety of foods.

[JCNorthway]

Years ago, maybe 15 or more, I remember Felsina and Fontodi being pretty similiar in price. I stopped buying Fontodi after a run of "off" bottles, and then increasing prices. I had no idea it had gotten to be almost 2 times the price of Felsina.

[Claudius2]

I’m sipping a Frescobaldi Faunae CC 2017.
Pretty good wine with nice dark cherry fruit, low acidity and medium body. The wine is fresh and softly fruity without pretentions of greatness.

[AKR]

I think Fontodi basically thinks of themselves now as a Gran Selezione, whether or not that is truly on the label. I too have not bought one in a while, purely because of the extra sawbuck they demand, vs. DOCG peers.

The NYT isn't a regional paper any more, so its kind of weird how Asimov always picks these obscure, narrowly distributed wines (often conveniently linked to his buddies like Rosenthal), when I think his articles would be just as instructive with the Felsina's, Fontodi's of the world. Those are examples of the region, and can be found by much more of the readership.

[Claudius2]

Guys
One of the best holidays I've ever had was a sabbatical in Chianti.
I'd had a few major health problems the previous year (if I was a cat, most of my nine lives would have been gone) so I took an extended break in Italy. Rented an apartment in Castellina in Chianti and hired a little van called a Fiat Cubo (yes, it looked like a child's block on wheels..) and visited as much of the local region as I could, of course including lots of CC makers, plus Brunello, Montepulciano and the other Chianti regions.

What surprised me was the diverse ways of thinking in the region. Some were steeped in the past, wanting to follow old family traditions, some were unabashed modernists, others were somewhere in the middle. I was also impressed by how friendly and humble they often were. It was rare to see pretentiousness and arrogance. And rarely did I feel like a tourist.

It is hard for me to put together a list of favourite CC makers (putting Riservas/GS's aside) but the ones I have particularly liked are as follows:

Isole E Olena
Monsanto
Fontodi
Fonterutoli
Beradenga
La Fonti
Carpineto
Frescobaldi (well some of them such as Castiglioni and Faunae)
Reicine
Some of the Antinori wines
Querciabella
Lamole di Lamole
Ricasoli
Felsina

Some above are more modern in style yet I tend to opt for those that show both good regional characters as well as good winemaking.

[AKR]

Isole E Olena
Monsanto
Fontodi
Fonterutoli
Beradenga
La Fonti
Carpineto
Frescobaldi (well some of them such as Castiglioni and Faunae)
Reicine
Some of the Antinori wines
Querciabella
Lamole di Lamole
Ricasoli
Felsina

Some above are more modern in style yet I tend to opt for those that show both good regional characters as well as good winemaking.

I have most of that list floating around in my racks, maybe except for Fontodi, Reicine, La Fonti

Frescobaldi and Fonteretuli have a big range of vineyards, bottlings, etc. which can be confusing when trying to determine what is really being sold by a merchant.

It's going to be triple digits temps out here again next week, so it will be Chianti time for sure, maybe with cold dinner salads.

[Claudius2]

Arv
Local news over here shows Calif temps as 54C which is about 130F in Death Valley. Yeah I gather it is called Death Valley for a good reason but I did not realise it ever got that hot. The day I left Sydney it was 46C or about 115F and that was unbearable.

Cheers
Mark

[JimHow]

Death Valley once held the record for highest temperature recorded on Earth, not sure if it still holds that distinction.

[jal]

We are traveling in the West and its hot as blazes here, and that's coming from someone who grew up in the middle east where summer temperatures were often in the 90s.
Moab, Utah was 110f two days ago. Today in Albuquerque it is supposed to cool off to the high 90s
We have been drinking iced tea and the occasional margarita, no wine lately.

[AKR]

Arv
Local news over here shows Calif temps as 54C which is about 130F in Death Valley. Yeah I gather it is called Death Valley for a good reason but I did not realise it ever got that hot. The day I left Sydney it was 46C or about 115F and that was unbearable.

Cheers
Mark

It's so hot, that I shifted to a white wine yesterday! A Barossa chard from Langmeil. It was quite good actually, zesty/crisp/minerally. No wood.

[Nicklasss]

Bought some 2019 Carpineto Chianti Classico today. I'm ready to open a bottle, little chilled, to drink next to the pool on a 30 Celsuis day. We'll see it this is possible to match.