TN: Two Millennial Champagnes

[chris kissack]

How time flies - it is already ten years since all the arguments about whether the end of the millennium should be celebrated with the arrival of 2000, or with its departure. In the end the arrival of 2000 won out; I remember the fireworks well, followed by a very foggy (and smoky?) New Year's day. A good enough reason to celebrate the year in question with two bottles of fizz (who needs a reason anyway?), both of which would be fine for New Year celebrations. Disclosure: the Leclerc-Mondet was a sample from a Winedoctor sponsor.

Leclerc-Mondet Brut 2000: A fairly rich and vibrant hue, and a moderately size bead, quite vigorous at first, which settles down to something more lazy with time in the glass. The nose is very appley, with an aromatic, baked apple quality, with a gentle, nutty nuance on the side. Soft and creamy on the palate at entry, with a firmer quality through the midpalate, with a baked, roasted flavour too, and a gentle mousse, this is good. Towards the finish it shows more structure, with a firmer acidity apparent here, and I think that although approachable now this would improve over a year or two in the cellar. 16+/20

Pol Roger Brut 2000: A shimmering pale, straw-gold wine here, and a plentiful bead. A fine and elegant nose follows, lightly honeyed and nutty, quite pure and evocative. Rich and full of flavour on the palate, with lots of vivacity from both the lively mousse and the bright, incisive acidity, which is very nicely balanced out by the texture of the wine. Savoury, mouth-watering finish. Great wine which is very approachable now, but which should do very nicely in the cellar for 5-10 years (and maybe a lot longer, knowing Pol Roger). 17.5-18+/20

Happy New Year to all!

[AlexR]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your notes.

I am coming to the conclusion that fine Champagne just needs lots of time.
Fortunately, however, drinking it before its time is rarely as negative as, let's say, a fine red wine.

I had an 85 Bollinger RD over Christmas. This was ready to go, but I should hope so after nearly a quarter of a century!

I was just in the UK and had a wine dinner at the Ledbury in London. I hope I will find the time to report on it!

With all best wishes for the New Year,
Alex R.