Bordeaux sure has changed: Meyney 1986

[Blanquito]

This is a well-worn topic here and elsewhere (including the board which shall not be named). No intent to stir things up on Xmas Eve, but drinking the 1986 Meyney (and knowing the '88, '89, and '90 versions as I do), I can't help but think, "wow, wine (or at least Bordeaux) has changed!".

Whether or not it has changed for the better is a matter of opinion, but changed it has. I for one will miss the ethereal scents of wood ash, black tea, musty cellar, leather, forest floor, and smoke which waft from this throw-back cru bourgeois. In the mouth, this is also different, with an iron-like flavor and hardness to the tannins to go along with a huge chewy yet dry mid-palate and a never ending finish. There's some really excellent glycerin in the mouth, but the tastes are totally dry-- just lovely and a bit stern. Great stuff and drinking super well after 4-5 hrs of double decanting. 92 pts, possibly more.

[DavidG]

What are you comparing it to Patrick? The '88-90, or some more recent vintages?

[Michael Malinoski]

I haven't had any of them in awhile, but I recall drinking '85, '86 and '88 Meyney together and really enjoying each of them, especially the '85 (just a nose ahead of '86, which was in turn just a nose hair ahead of the '88). And while 2000 exceeded my expectations, it tasted NOTHING like this other trio, which all effortlessly showed a sense of consistent personality and sense of place. And there is no way that '00 will show as well 15 years from now as that '86 does now, IMHO. So, thanks for the note, Patrick!

Michael

[DavidG]

Well, if Meyney is your only reference point, and you are comparing what they made in the '80s ('82 and '86 in particular were excellent) to what's been done since 2000, I think your conclusion would be that Bordeaux has gone in the dumper. But I'm sure our resident math professor will tell us that the decline of one estate does not tell the story of the whole region.

And interestingly the decline of Meyney has been in an altogether different direction than what is being decried by some as a trend in Bordeaux to too much ripe fruit. I tried a bottle of the '00 Meyney shortly after release and found it seriously lacking in balance, with the tannins way overwhelming the fruit. Maybe it was just closed, and I don't have the experience to be able to predict as confidently as MIchael that it will be going nowhere in 15 years, but I'm willing to guess it's got a lot less chance of turning into anything special than some of the "too ripe" wines people complain about.

[JimHow]

The '86 and '89 Meyneys are very enjoyable wines.

[stefan]

Yes, '86 and '89 were good vintages for Meyney. The '95 is OK. I bought two cases of the 2000 and returned one after trying a bottle because I reacted to it the same way as David.

stefan

[Houndsong]

I had the 89 Meyney courtesy of Patrick. I'd have to agree that is how a wine should taste.

[Chasse-Spleen]

I had the '89 Meyney once and thought it was fantastic. But I wouldn't describe it as austere, old school or lacking in fruit. Not flamboyant, but great balance and excellent, dark fruit flavors. Great texture.
-Chris

[Claret]

I last drank the 1986 this past January. It is a classic older style claret. The mature nose was very inviting after airing, and the tannins while still noticeable linger in the background. A recent 1989 is at peak and a fine example of this wonderful vintage.

My Meyney ranking is 1982, 1989, 1986, tie between 1985 and 1988, 1990, 1983. I have not tasted any newer vintages.

Glenn

[Winona Chief]

1982, 1989 and 1986 are also my favorite recent vintages of Meyney (haven't bought any since the 1989). Older favorites include the 1961, 1962, 1966, 1970 and 1971 - I guess that means I must be really old.

Chris Bublitz

[Claudius]

Guys,
The vintages of the 90s were not great for Meyney.
I think it can be put down to financial issues with the owners - Cordier were forced to sell Gruaud larose for example, and their negociant business was not doing well.

I tried the 90s wines at a tasting several years ago and have not considered buying it since.
I had bought the 95 en primeur and after the above tasting, I sold it at auction.
The wine was rather angular and despite being young, seemed to lack any depth or interest.
Too much tannin and not much else.

[Blanquito]

I've never had the '82 Meyney, but it would be fun to try.

While the '86 Meyney was excellent, I'd put the '89 version just a bit ahead.

I am not sure if Bordeaux in general doesn't make wines like they did in the '80's, but we can all agree that Meyney doesn't!

My only conclusion is that I need to drink more '86 Left Bank Bordeaux.

[Chasse-Spleen]

It is interesting that Meyney doesn't currently produce the much lauded style of wine that they did at one time, such as in the '80s. But we can't write Meyney off completely because we haven't tried their recent wines at maturity. Has anyone tried the '96 lately? Or the '95? If their '96 is a washout, that would be scary. Just because they don't get the great ratings they once did, doesn't mean that their wines are a total loss. Think of those flabby (greatest vintage anywhere of all time!!!) 2007 Rhones...

-Chasse

[Claudius]

Chasse
I have tried both the 96 and 95 a few years ago, and wasn't that impressed.
They were a bit lean and dry. If I recall the 96 was better than the 95.
They may show better now but I don't thik either will be great.

The wines were showing some tertiary develolpment inlcuding tobacco, and may not make old bones.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Thanks for the update, Claudius.
-Chasse

[rjsussex]

...and the 03 was poor, even by 03 standards (!)

Richard