Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts

Two white wines opened also in the last few days. Convenient good wines instead of great.

2018 Arco Nova alvarinho from Portugal, was ripe and exotic. Low acidity, but the medium body on ripe citruse, mango and some herbs was very good

2019 Épaulé jeté Vouvray was different, rich too, but more on apples, pear and honey. Good ripeness, and body being also medium intensity makes it easy to drink.

Over the last week or so:

2007 Chateau Lagrange St Julien
I have reviewed this before - it is a solid performer in an average vintage, with good body and nice dark fruit meshed with vanilla oak.
The acid is a little spiky but overall, the wine is well balanced and I'd happily buy again at a fair price (the case was picked up at auction).
Very good to excellent (particularly in the context of the vintage).

2017 Thompson Reserve Margaret River Chardonnay.
For my palate, Australia and particularly Margaret River and Southern Victoria, make the best Chardonnay after the top vineyards of the Cote D'or.
This wine had lots of bright, youthful citrus and stone fruit, excellent acidity and minerality, and some vanilla and spice from the French oak.
I would not rate it in the very top category but an excellent wine overall.

2012 Beloki Rioja Reserva
My Spanish friends tell me that the property is run by some eccentric guys from the Basque.
The style is a cross between the modern and traditional, with good red and black fruit typical of Tempranillo, and some earthy, savoury characters.
Seems ready to drink with quite firm oak charry on the back palate. Better with some rustic food. Very good.

Again we are trying to save the Champenois from impending doom.

Mumm Corton Rouge NV
Another very disappointing bottle and rather tasteless and plain, more like a cheap sparking wine from just about anywhere.
Wendy said it tastes like a Prosecco and I am not arguing.
Also drank a de Villemandy NV (branded as World's Cellar here) which for a much lower price (around $US24 or around E20), offered some decent fruit and brioche, just a little short and sweet.
Ratings for the Mumm NV was okay (drinkable but with no character or interest) and good for the de Villemandy.

On the topic, also drank Nicholas Feuillatte NV Brut Grande Reserve which was the antithesis of the Villemandy - dry, with cool and precise citrus and apple flavours, quite long but lacks a bit of mid palate.
A linear style which was actually better with food. Very good.

2017 Petaluma Hanlin Hill Clare Valley Riesling.
This was a regular favourite in Australia, but I only buy it occasionally here due to a high price point.
Fullish gold colour with firm, dry nose showing a fair bit of petrol characters. Wendy did not like the nose. I did.
Palate was medium to full bodied, firm and dry with a touch of lime, honey, quince, and grapefruit.
I like the style. It is powerful and complex, despite its youth. I would not keep it too long.
Wendy said she likes the style of the Western Aust Rieslings better - more minerality, lime/lemon fruit and firmer acid.
I like both. In my case, rated very good.

2005 Marc Morey Beaune Teurons 1er Cru.
I think it was far too cold when opened after being in the wine fridge at 12C for a few years.
The nose was pleasant with lots of red fruit, some gamey, savoury characters and a a fair touch of French oak.
When it warmed, it showed more Burgundian style - sous bois, hung game and earth.
Lighter than many 2005's it is the last bottle from the case and I think there is little point in holding it at this time.
Very good though other bottles from the same box were a bit richer from memory.

With baked rigatoni and lamb ragu, which was excellent, we opened a 2005 Revello Barolo Vigna Gattera. I've been anxious to open an 05 Barolo since reading that it was an "early maturing" vintage. The wine was opened about 3 hours before dinner; upon tasting, it was not closed or overly tannic. It actually showed pretty forward fruit with slightly drying tannins. So I decided not to decant then, but did decant about 30 minutes before dinner. The wine was in a really nice place - the nose was very open with a "strawberry-like" aroma; the palate was rich and round with what I got as red fruit flavors; the finish was smooth and somewhat long. I would give this 91-92 points tonight. I don't know that it will get much better, but it was a really enjoyable wine to have now, and will probably be good for at least another 5-10 years.

1990 Château Sociando-Mallet
Another terrific bottle of this. Still sports a dark garnet core of color, but all the erstwhile primary, grapey notes are now gone. This bottle shows more pyrazine than some others bottles have, but I am seriously digging the smoked poblano, piney fruit and fresh-cracked black peppercorn that these green notes give it. Zesty, fresh, yet dark and racy with more midpalate oomph than can be the norm at this address. Fully ready and wonderful for lovers of old school claret. 93-94 pts.

2000 Kalin Pinot Noir Cuvée DD
Followed for two days... this shows a truly lovely bouquet with savory scents of roast pork, spicy notes of clove and cardamon, floral hints of lavender, and a touch of earthy leather. The palate is dominated by uber bright and hard lemony acids with some nice cherry fruit in reserve and just a bit of dry tannin remaining on the bright, lingering finish. Lots to like here, but this is seriously acidic and it really requires food to do it any justice. Acid freaks will adore this, I *merely* like, but it’s certainly an interesting and refreshing wine. Seems ready to go. 89 pts.

2009 Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg
This is brilliant. Electric, flashy acids, spicy layered fruit with an oily mouthfeel, terrific balance, texturally wide open and showing wonderful length. The bouquet is framed foremost by copious lemon zest with some incipient lanolin and wax. I’m seeing notes on CT that this is oxidative or over the hill, but this bottle is fresh and pristine. Probably can age for decades from here and gain complexity but I am digging this as is for its freshness and vigor. So good. 94 pts.

2018 Jean-Max Roger Menetou-Salon

This was quite simple as sauvignon blanc, but delicious and impregnated from the Loire influence. Mineral, lightly fruity, some green herbs, good balance of acidity and ripeness in mouth. Very nice quaffer. Opened last night. 1/3 bottle left, for tomorrow apperitive.

I'm preparing myself for the February 28 days with alcohol. Of course, i do the opposite of everybody as i don't understand why someone would avoid alcoholic beverage for 28 days? Especially a sane beverage like a glass of wine. And in those covid times, when you never know if you gonna catch the virus and lose your smell and taste for 2 months... better enjoying wine while you can.

Thing like that make me think that the World is getting a little bit crazier every day...

Nic

P.s. It is a bigger challenge to have alcohol for 28 straight days. The proof? I'm trying it every year but never made it!

I’m with you Nic and had the 2012 Domaine Bernard et Thierry Glantenay Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes last night. Decanted it for a couple of hours and it showed pretty red fruited, forest floor and white pepper aromas that gave way to a beautifully balanced, crushed cherry profile that turned to mineral on the finish. 91

Last night with sliced hanger steak and mushrooms in a wine sauce over rice I drank another bottle of 2003 Sociando-Mallet. This is a rugged, no holes barred BWE favorite that is great with steak. No doubt I will like it when it gets old and complex, but I will have trouble holding on to bottles.

Nic, I am trying to remember whether I have had a day with no wine since the Covid pandemic started. There may have been one. I am pretty sure there have not been two. However, some days when we have a light supper and Lucie is abstaining I have only a glass.

Working backwards from today, here's my January consumption list:

Vintage Wine Appellation
2016 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2016 Château Haut-Beauséjour St. Estèphe
2016 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur St. Estèphe
2015 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2006 Château Les Ormes de Pez St. Estèphe
2016 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Les Ormes de Pez St. Estèphe
2014 Château D'Hanteillan Haut-Médoc
NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Champagne
2016 Château Bernadotte Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Fourcas Dupré Listrac-Médoc
1983 Château Cos d'Estournel St. Estèphe
1982 Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc
2015 Château Pierre de Montignac Médoc
2015 Château D'Arvigny Haut-Médoc
2010 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc
2014 Château Marsac Séguineau Margaux
2016 Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Bernadotte Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Tronquoy-Lalande St. Estèphe
2016 Château Peyrabon Haut-Médoc
2015 Château Pey de Pont Médoc
2010 Château Marsac Séguineau Margaux
2017 Château Guibon Blanc Entre-Deux-Mers
2018 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2017 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico
2014 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve Champagne

The Ch. Peyrabon was probably the least inspiring of the bunch. All the others I'd happily drink again.

It is disappointing to hear that the Peyrabon was the least inspiring. I purchased a case last year, opened a bottle that was not giving much, and packed the rest away on the assumption that it just needed more time. Perhaps time will not have the impact I'd hoped for.

How was the 1983 Cos? IIRC, I did not think much of it when it was 20 something, but it improved a lot in its 30s.

Racer Chris wrote:Working backwards from today, here's my January consumption list:

Vintage Wine Appellation
2016 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2016 Château Haut-Beauséjour St. Estèphe
2016 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur St. Estèphe
2015 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2006 Château Les Ormes de Pez St. Estèphe
2016 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Les Ormes de Pez St. Estèphe
2014 Château D'Hanteillan Haut-Médoc
NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Champagne
2016 Château Bernadotte Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Fourcas Dupré Listrac-Médoc
1983 Château Cos d'Estournel St. Estèphe
1982 Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc
2015 Château Pierre de Montignac Médoc
2015 Château D'Arvigny Haut-Médoc
2010 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc
2014 Château Marsac Séguineau Margaux
2016 Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Bernadotte Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Tronquoy-Lalande St. Estèphe
2016 Château Peyrabon Haut-Médoc
2015 Château Pey de Pont Médoc
2010 Château Marsac Séguineau Margaux
2017 Château Guibon Blanc Entre-Deux-Mers
2018 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2017 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico
2014 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve Champagne

The Ch. Peyrabon was probably the least inspiring of the bunch. All the others I'd happily drink again.

Wow that is impressive.

How was the 16 Bernadotte? I quite like that estate's wines.

Racer Chris wrote:Working backwards from today, here's my January consumption list:

Vintage Wine Appellation
2016 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2016 Château Haut-Beauséjour St. Estèphe
2016 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur St. Estèphe
2015 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2006 Château Les Ormes de Pez St. Estèphe
2016 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Les Ormes de Pez St. Estèphe
2014 Château D'Hanteillan Haut-Médoc
NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Champagne
2016 Château Bernadotte Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Fourcas Dupré Listrac-Médoc
1983 Château Cos d'Estournel St. Estèphe
1982 Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc
2015 Château Pierre de Montignac Médoc
2015 Château D'Arvigny Haut-Médoc
2010 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc
2014 Château Marsac Séguineau Margaux
2016 Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Bernadotte Haut-Médoc
2016 Château Tronquoy-Lalande St. Estèphe
2016 Château Peyrabon Haut-Médoc
2015 Château Pey de Pont Médoc
2010 Château Marsac Séguineau Margaux
2017 Château Guibon Blanc Entre-Deux-Mers
2018 Château Lilian Ladouys St. Estèphe
2017 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico
2014 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve Champagne

The Ch. Peyrabon was probably the least inspiring of the bunch. All the others I'd happily drink again.

Racer Chris as next BWE BD?

Last night, i opened a wine all staff at my wine store recommended, the 2013 Quinta do Convento Douro.

Unfortunately, or i'm too depressed effect of the long confinement and have now negative view on most wines (and other things), or the wine was ok only. Way too light and simple for me. Even MC found it quite boring. Deception, i would just say avoid.

Nic

stefan wrote:How was the 1983 Cos? IIRC, I did not think much of it when it was 20 something, but it improved a lot in its 30s.

I think it's on the decline now but still an excellent wine. The '82 Sociando was the class of this field.

Arv, I like the Bernadotte. Its my first time with this chateau. After drinking the first of three I bought late last year, I jumped on 6 more very quickly. A definite qpr contender at just over $15.

Nicklasss wrote: Racer Chris as next BWE BD?

Mascot may be more appropriate.

Racer Chris wrote:

stefan wrote:How was the 1983 Cos? IIRC, I did not think much of it when it was 20 something, but it improved a lot in its 30s.

I think it's on the decline now but still an excellent wine. The '82 Sociando was the class of this field.

Arv, I like the Bernadotte. Its my first time with this chateau. After drinking the first of three I bought late last year, I jumped on 6 more very quickly. A definite qpr contender at just over $15.

That's a good price on the Bernadotte. For those who know Napoleonic history it was named after one of his Marshals, who owned it at one point. Later, Bernadotte would become a Swedish prince.

After our great experience with 2018 Louis Michel Chablis, I ordered a case of 2018 Louis Michel Montee de Tonnerre to drink down the road. Never having tasted 2018 Michel 1er Cru, I opened one last night to drink with seafood stew. It is certainly a good wine, but I am afraid that L. M. has changed its style. I expect steely precision in a L. M. 1er Cru with noticeable acidity, while this MdT is almost flabby.

Stefan, your experience might be more tied to the vintage than a change style. In my experience, the 2018 Chablis that I've had all lack that steeliness that I expect. I'm thinking that it must have been a warm and ripe vintage. The advantage of that is some wines you would normally need to wait for are approachable now.

Thanks for the data, Jon.

I’m not impressed with the 2018 white burgs I’ve tried so far.

Lack of precision, Patrick?

I have little experience with 2018 Burgundy. The Louis Michel basic Chablis is excellent for its class and an early drinker. I have some Boillot 1er that I planned not to touch for a few years; maybe I should try one. I bought quite a few OR Chardonnay to drink in the near term because I was running out of Chardonnay of all kinds. Or maybe I will follow Jim's lead and drink red wine with fish.

stefan wrote:After our great experience with 2018 Louis Michel Chablis, I ordered a case of 2018 Louis Michel Montee de Tonnerre to drink down the road. Never having tasted 2018 Michel 1er Cru, I opened one last night to drink with seafood stew. It is certainly a good wine, but I am afraid that L. M. has changed its style. I expect steely precision in a L. M. 1er Cru with noticeable acidity, while this MdT is almost flabby.

oooh tell us about the seafood stew....

I really miss going out on Fridays and getting bouillabaise at the scant places here that offer it

I had the same problem with some Michel Butteaux 18 - compared to the 16 which I loved sweeter and a bit flabby.

I am wary of the 18 white burgs too, and likewise taking the extreme hype over the 19s with a large pinch of salt

2018 is definitely an early drinking vintage in White Burgundy. I would let the 2017s rest. Just had a fantastic 2018 Jacques Carillon 1er cru Les Referts, much more accessible than the 2017 1ers by the same producer.

I was speaking to David Beckwith last week who said that 2017 and 2018 were the best back to back WB vintages he can remember. I think it's hard to generalize, I would concentrate on Chablis Village and stay away from Meursault altogether. As far as the rest of the appellations, I would be careful and make sure I know the producer style before buying.

I've purchased a few cases of entry level 2018 white Burgs, including Louis Michel, which I agree is a nice wine for its pedigree and price point. I am using them as everyday whites while my very few 2016 and 2017 WBs are sleeping. I've heard some hype about 2019, so it will be interesting to see what they are like. I am planning to purchase the 2019 Picq Chablis soon to investigate.

Arv, the seafood stew (calamari, gulf red snapper, shrimp, and scallops with carrots) that Lucie made one week ago was excellent; this one is the remainder of that with some west coast flounder left over from Friday added. It is risky to eat seafood that old, but our fridge is extremely cold and we were not willing to throw out the stew. Neither of us suffered at all. Good thing as I do not think that I can throw up; at least I have not since my surgery 20 years ago.

[quote="jckba"]I’m with you Nic and had the 2012 Domaine Bernard et Thierry Glantenay Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes last night. Decanted it for a couple of hours and it showed pretty red fruited, forest floor and white pepper aromas that gave way to a beautifully balanced, crushed cherry profile that turned to mineral on the finish. 91[/quote

I'm now a big fan of Glantenay's Volnay, since not that long. Bought enough normally to drink some in the next 10-12 years. But they are so good, hard to resist.

Nic

stefan wrote:Arv, the seafood stew (calamari, gulf red snapper, shrimp, and scallops with carrots) that Lucie made one week ago was excellent; this one is the remainder of that with some west coast flounder left over from Friday added. It is risky to eat seafood that old, but our fridge is extremely cold and we were not willing to throw out the stew. Neither of us suffered at all. Good thing as I do not think that I can throw up; at least I have not since my surgery 20 years ago.

Sounds great. I think after seafood is cooked its probably fine for a while.

I haven’t had many 2018 white burgundy is yet, mostly lower end bottlings from PYCM, Neillon and Billaud Simon. At least compared to the 2017 versions, these are too soft and diffuse at these domaines. They’re not bad, but they lack the electricity that the 2017s show.

But it’s good to hear that there are some good 2018‘s out there, I’ll keep my eyes open. Another problem of course is that prices have gone from stupid to completely crazy especially with the tariffs making it even worse. That combined with the softer vintage has made 2018 an easy pass for me so far.

Claudius2 wrote:Over the last week or so:

2017 Thompson Reserve Margaret River Chardonnay.
For my palate, Australia and particularly Margaret River and Southern Victoria, make the best Chardonnay after the top vineyards of the Cote D'or.
This wine had lots of bright, youthful citrus and stone fruit, excellent acidity and minerality, and some vanilla and spice from the French oak.
I would not rate it in the very top category but an excellent wine overall.

Claudius2 - I bought an entry level Leeuwin chardonnay today I keep hearing about them but don't recall trying them, so will put that in the queue. My grocery store seems to have gotten a mega wave of Aussie wines -- especially whites -- at what seem like low prices to me.

2012 J. M. Boillot Puligny Montrachet La Garenne
First of a 6 pack won not long ago at auction for $52.50/each all-in... Very nice, quite lemony in profile with good dry extract and bright acids, and a nice grippy finish. A white wine in a lithe, citric, mineral vein. I’m happy with the value here, but not really too much to get the pulse racing. Overall, delicious and refreshing, but ultimately one dimensional. 91 pts.

2019 Les Jardins white de Loudenne.

Lot of sauvignon blanc in there. Nose grapefuits, blackcurrant bushes, lightpears and cat wiwi. In mouth, nice light citrus flavors, white flowers, good acidity and light mineral bitterness. This is well made, very easy, and very dry for a Bordeaux blanc. Young and simple, but for the price, hit the right spot.

Last night with rack of lamb and brussels sprouts, we opened a 2000 Talbot St. Julien. This was the 3rd bottle out of a case that was cracked last May, and all of them have been excellent. This is a deep, rich, and structured wine, still seeming very youthful at age 20+. My notes say that RP rated this at 90 points with a drinking window up to 2020. I'd say he was 3-5 points low, and about 15-20 years off on the drinking window. If you have this wine, and have not opened a bottle for a few years, I'd encourage you to open one to see what it is offering these days. Wish I had 2 cases.

JCNorthway wrote:Last night with rack of lamb and brussels sprouts, we opened a 2000 Talbot St. Julien. This was the 3rd bottle out of a case that was cracked last May, and all of them have been excellent. This is a deep, rich, and structured wine, still seeming very youthful at age 20+. My notes say that RP rated this at 90 points with a drinking window up to 2020. I'd say he was 3-5 points low, and about 15-20 years off on the drinking window. If you have this wine, and have not opened a bottle for a few years, I'd encourage you to open one to see what it is offering these days. Wish I had 2 cases.

I had this a my first BWE offline in the fall of 2005 in NYC, and it was already drinking great then. Sounds like it's gotten even better.

I would like to have experienced what this wine was like 15 years ago, but if I had, I probably would not have any bottles left . . .

For you Nic:
My daughter and I drank a bottle of 2015 Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Bonnivieres 2015 Cote Rotie last night with rack of lamb. I double decanted it in the afternoon. Cuilleron may not be fashionable among the Northern Rhone cognoscenti and glitterati but this little number is an absolute show stopper. Clearly 2015 was a generous vintage in the Northern Rhone but this opened up spectacularly well, and really delivered plenty of rocky minerality/schist notes and Mediterranean herbs in addition to the vibrant primary fruits.

2005 Boyd Cantenac (Margaux)
I bought this as futures way back in 2006/7, but this is my first try from the case... A delightful wine squarely between austere-traditional vs modern-glossy, this is a nicely balanced. Shows good fruit, but the sweetness is well harmonized by acids and tannins. I’d call this early maturity as it’s still showing lots of primary notes but the structure is open and it’s drinking well. Not a show-stopper and isn’t (yet) showing the floral/feminine side of Margaux, but I really like. I was thinking of dumping this at auction, fearing it would be OTT and modern, but after tonight I plan to hold on to these. I’ll probably hold for 5 years before the next bottle, but there’s no crime in enjoying these now. Very nice.

Thanks Ian.

I did not made it yet, but i will buy some Cuilleron Côte Rôtie.

I'm looking to buy more Côte Rôtie in 2021.

Talking about rocky minerals, i opened a 2018 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er cru Champs Martin tonight, and i must say this is not a little pinot noir. This is a crazy minerally driven serious pinot from the côte Chalonnaise. Thrilling in the tough fruit buried in terroir tones. I can see that making great over years. Not as lovely as 2018 Glantenay Volnay, but a fine expression of Mercurey.

Nic

2018 Domaine Drouhin Arthur Chardonnay with rockfish baked with tomatoes and spinach. Rockfish is a pretty tasty flaked fish, but we did not think that the dish was that good. Both the spinach and and tomatoes had good flavors but did not complement the fish.

The OR Chardonnay was fine, as usual, without being exciting or exceptional in any way. The lemon acid in the wine makes it particularly good with fish. The concentration and structure suggest that the wine will improve with a few years in the bottle.

1952 Borgogno Barolo Riserva Speciale.

Wow did this need every minute of the 3-4 hours in decanter. It was an interesting marriage of the 1958 Riserva and the 1964 Riserva that I opened this past summer. Lighter bodied and garnet hue like the 58. But every bit and more of tannins and structure from the 64 which was also much more dark and brooding and more body. This was probably the most intellectual wine of the three. The fact that it was a speciale may have played a part. It finally softened towards the end and was drinkable without food. Although it lost a bit of its signing oomph that showed along the way. Very fun.