Why 62 is less than 61
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 10:01 pm
Even as an old Bordeaux lover I have had very little experience tasting vintage 1962, consistently passing over it for its more celebrated neighbors 1959, 1961 and 1966. Having recently tried a range of ‘61s, I was delighted to find that Wine Watch was putting on a tasting of ‘62s so I could compare them at the same very advanced age. Of course the experts have never heaped great praise on the ‘61s and the price reflects it. Still, apparently it was by no means an “oublier” vintage like 1963, 1965 or 1968. After a couple of forgettable 1962 Burgundies, we got down to tasting real wine.
- 1962 Château La Pointe - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Non-château bottled. Maderized or otherwise spoiled and undrinkable for the non-masochist. NR (flawed)
- 1962 Château Léoville Poyferré - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
A pleasant if modest aroma of old Cabernet Sauvignon greets you if you bring the glass close enough. Well preserved. Mellow and sound. Invites some respect due to the elderly but no love. Yet better than some of the more august wines in the series. (90 pts.)
- 1962 Château Léoville Las Cases - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Ex Mähler-Besse. Now this is quite good and shows what a fully resolved Léoville Las Cases can taste like. Genuine purity of ripe and low octane Cabernet Sauvignon; mulberry, cassis, tender tannins, decent finish. Enjoyable and not fading, at least from well kept bottles. (92 pts.)
- 1962 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
A chunky example of Lynch Bages with a lot of charcoal. Solid. Reasonable breadth of flavor and good tannins and acidity. Yet somehow it’s not totally clean even though you can drink it without gastric distress. (89 pts.)
- 1962 Château Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Ex Mähler-Besse. Finally a very good example of the vintage. While not close to great vintages for them such as ‘89 or ‘90, it’s easy to appreciate the thrust, concentration and flavor authority. The inky St. Estèphe black fruit is on display with a pleasing hint of sous bois. The group favorite as well as mine. Still, even this long-lived Montrose is probably past its best days. (93 pts.)
- 1962 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Réserve Nicolas - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
I was guessing that La Mission Haut-Brion would likely be the most successful wine of the tasting due to its famed longevity and intense character. Well it was intense but actually too much. Overburdened with smoke but the fire had burned so long the smoke was burnt even beyond charcoal. A balsamic note was helpful in balancing it and the tannins were fine. I can actually enjoy it in small doses. Some tasters thought it was spoiled in some way, perhaps maderized. (91 pts.)
- 1962 Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Ex Mähler-Besse 2009. I just don’t see how this was almost voted first by the group. While it seemed a bit better than the ‘61 I tasted recently, if the property had been well managed in this era, I think they could have done much better. The well saturated color is the best part and suggested it was a pristine bottle. Not much aroma. On the palate it’s decent but lacks fruit and sucrosity and finishes short. (90 pts.)
- 1962 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I have to wonder if some of the testers were influenced by the label since they praised it for its alleged elegance and complexity. For me though, clearly too old, too weak, too light in color and flavor; altogether too soft. Not as good as the better bottles of the ‘61. (88 pts.)
- 1962 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Usually Climens can be relied on to deliver a fairly elegant and nuanced Barsac but at least at this point and for this bottle I found it top heavy. Thick, rich and syrupy. That can work with some of the heavier Sauternes but only if there is perfect acidity and a substantial panoply of flavors, which it lacked. Still, it’s good, just not delightful. (91 pts.)
- 1962 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Half bottle. Demure, fragrant, light to medium weight, nicely balanced and not too sweet. I would have liked a bit more concentration and intensity which perhaps it had a decade ago. (92 pts.)