Selosse

[s*d*r]

SELOSSE - Oceanic, Pompano Beach, Florida (1/25/2022)

The champagnes of Jacques Selosse and now son Guillaume have achieved cult status. Famed for their oxidative style, ripe fruit and minimal sulfur, they have become very rare. Anselme crafts wines from six lieux-dix as well as from blends. Perhaps his most famous production is the “Substance,” a true solera dating back to 1986.

I had previously avoided them since I am not fond of overly oxidative wines in general but when the local champagne group decided to make it a theme I wanted to see what all the fuss was about.

• NV Jacques Selosse Initial - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  The first bottle opened in the Selosse lineup immediately disabused me of the prejudiced notion I had that all Selosse is too heavy, too oxidized. This bottle was purchased some years ago so not a recent disgorgement. Fairly pale, pleasant mousse. Really quite clean and airy with plenty of citrus character and not much yeast. Nice. (92 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
  The color is orange, not pink. This bottle purchased a number of years ago. Very dry even severe on the palate. Minerally and crisp. Medium finish. Distinctive and interesting but needs an unctuous dish to tame it. (92 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Substance - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  As expected, the Substance was the darkest in color and the most full bodied of the series. Clearly oxidative, just as intended by the winemaker due to the solera starting from 1986. Yet the fruit was energetic and the finish long and lingering. Caramel and oak rather than yeast. Ripe apple and baking spice. Not exactly tiring to drink but lacks the finesse of the lieux-dits examples that followed. If you ever want to match a champagne with meat, this could be an excellent choice. A real success in this extreme style. (93 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Les Carelles - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  The lightest and most delicate of the lieux-dits, the Carelles displaces controlled oxidation in a medium bodied format. It makes sense since it’s composed of 100% Chardonnay. Some pear and apple. Not as complex as some of the others but a fine champagne of character nevertheless. (92 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Avize Les Chantereines - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  This is truly remarkable. It combines outstanding depth with poise and terrific harmony. Elusively complex with that Selosse controlled oxidation, intense depth yet somehow still elegant. Great persistence. This is wine more than champagne even though there’s enough bubbles to dance on the tongue and lift the flavors. Like a great aged Burgundy on the edge of the cliff. (95 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ay La Côte Faron - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  The Farrons started out slow but gradually evolved into yet another unique wine from Selosse. There’s an unusual salty marine character that marks this out from the others. As it sits in the glass it gets deeper in color and flavor. Nicely toasty too. These Pinot Noir based wines are a relatively new project for the Selosse family and shows how they are always experimenting, never content to rest on their illustrious past. (93 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Cramant Chemins de Châlons - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  Similar to Les Carelles with a bit more oxidation which does not detract at all. Medium full and tasty but lacks the distinctiveness of the best plots. (92 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
  An especially rich style of Selosse Pinot Noir, the Sous le Mont is fabulous. What makes it endlessly fascinating is the deliciously nutty flavor of walnuts. The acidity is perfectly judged so it’s not the least bit tiring. Oxidation is in the background even though it’s obvious. Medium full and rich rather that a behemoth. It changes minute by minute so you are never fatigued. Intellectual and hedonistic. (95 pts.)

• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
  At first it seems deceptively slight despite the hint of caramel. Soon enough though it reveals an interesting note of ginger and nutmeg. Exceptionally complex although the disparate elements don’t totally marry. Selosse proves how the same Pinot Noir grape can reveal many different flavors from the same wine making style in disparate vineyards. (93 pts.)

I have never experienced a religious conversion but I can now say I converted to become am a fan of Selosse. The wines are unique and full of complexity. Worth seeking out although the forbidding price and rarity ensures that won’t happen very often.

[stefan]

Nice to get your perspective on this controversial house. I don't think I have every tasted any Selosse.

[jal]

The only Selosse I've had were the Initial (drank 3 times) which I thought was terrific, with a fine mousse and great depth, and the Brut Rosé which we had at the Restaurant Les Avisés (owned by Selosse) which spoiled me for Rosé champagne from any other house.

I thought when drinking these that if the blended NVs are this extraordinary, the Lieux Dits ones must be incredible. Your tasting proves it.

Excellent tasting Stuart! Congratulations.

[DavidG]

No Selosse experience here, enjoyed reading your notes Stu. Looks like a number of them made quite a positive impression despite your lack of fondness for the oxidative style. I suspect I’d love them.

[dstgolf]

Stu,

Great tasting and sharing of notes for a house that I've only tried once and loved. Pricing up north is a little out of whack so not rushing out to stock up. Love to experience the wide array through your notes though. Thanks for taking the time to share.

[SF Ed]

I love Selosse - just too expensive for me these days (along with being difficult to find).

Back in the day (15-20 years ago), our default high end restaurant wine pairing in France was a bottle of Selosse Substance with a half bottle of a good Premier Cru Burgundy (like a d'Angerville Clos des Ducs). Not cheap but a fraction of the cost of buying them today.

I've also been lucky enough to have some of the single vineyard Selosse in France at non-extortionary prices, but not recently.

The salinity and the rich/oxidized flavors are present in many of the wines, and while not always my favorite wine notes/flavors, Selosse makes them come together in a magical way.

Singular wines - I would highly recommend trying the Initiale to see if you like the style before forking out the big bucks for the other ones.

SF Ed

[robert goulet]

Def. a Selosse fan here...I do like the ox style if done in a complimentary style and not over embellished.