Last week we had the delight of being invited to one of the Heart’s Delight dinners, this one with Arnaud Frederick of Gruaud Larose. Several of us brought bottles (I had 85 and 86) and Arnaud brought a few as well.
WOTN was the 1982, which just bested the sublime 86 with a bit more freshness. The 1995 was quite nice, as was 1989. Arnaud loves the 2009 and thinks his 2019 is one of the greatest wines ever. We did not have the 2000, the only vintage that is highly touted that was conspicuously absent.
I did not notice any major stylistic change between Cordier and post-Cordier wines, and despite some saying that the only great GL are 82, 86 then 00, Inthought the intervening vintages were excellent, cerebral and satisfying…
Betcha by golly wow, that sounds like an AMAZING tasting, NR, when GL is on, it is as good as it gets in Bordeaux.
Fascinated by your observation about the (lack of) stylistic change between Cordier and post-Cordier.
Wow, Noah, seems like a great tasting. When I tasted 2009, I thought it was fabulous and better than Barton, poyferre, et al in the sense of its elegance and ethereal nature. Soon I loaded up on it en premieur.
The 2009 GL reminds me of 2016 Beychevelle...Time will tell, but I think 09 will surpass 86 Gruaud...
Nick - I am terrible at assessing quality of young wine. The 2018 was middleweight, surprisingly approachable, but too oak/tannin for me to really get a bead on…
As for the 09 - liked it a lot but also achingly young. Only had other GL to taste against and Inpreferred it marginally to the 2005. Arnaud loves the 09. Most 09’s I remember trying we’re on the ripe side, but maybe I’m projecting
Great line up Noah, that's a sexy picture! Like many - a big GL fan, and when it's at peak GL can be spectacular. I've been avoiding my last bottle of '86, any thoughts on how much longer that'll go?
I was privileged to attend a GL vertical some years ago in the Chicago area. Amongst the wines tasted (that I can remember) were 82, 86, 89, 95 and 2000. On that day the 1986 was the crowd favorite with 1982 closely behind. My recollection is that all the wines were top notch on that day.
Sounds like a lovely evening, Noah. I am becoming a big fan of Gruaud Larose. Having gotten to taste great bottles of the 79, 86, 88, 90 recently. I'm curious about the 85, did it not show that well? Off bottle?
I have had a long love affair with this estate, which has waxed and waned.
But my interest is definitely on the up after my recent couple of experiences with the 2005, which is just sublime - a word which is over used but applies to this wine. This coincided with the price of the 2005 taking off so I only have a couple of bottles. Unlike many other bigger framed 2005s like Leoville Barton, the GL is ready to drink with pleasure.I would rate it on a par with the very distinguished Duhart Milon 2005.
So it was in that context that the comments here about the 2009 - and the 2019 - piqued my interest. This estate was certainly out of favour with Parker and his acolytes in the 1990s and 2000s. I have been less impressed by the offerings from 1989 on, but interested to read that it acquitted itself well on this occasion, as did the 1995 which surprised me. The 1990 has been pretty mixed in my experience, and judging by other notes too.I have the 1996 and though I really like it, it does not quite live up to the very great wines of the 1980s: 1982, 1983, 1985, 1986 and 1988.
I am down to single bottles of 1983, 1985, 1986 and 1989, with a couple of 1978s - good but more on a par with 1996 than these 1980s legends. I have about nine bottles left of the 1996, two bottles of the 2005, one of the 2006 and six packs of the 2010 and 2016 both of which I have high hopes for.
Gruaud Larose is not so much a wine for the <<glitterati>> but one for the <<cognoscenti>>
P.S., Moderator, the italicisation function does not work
I have 6 bottles of the 2015, and one each of the 2014 and 2010.
I got the 2015s at a crazy price because they were mislabeled as a cheap chianti at the NH store.
I uncorked a bottle of the 2015 last year and thought it was kind of boring, but it may have just been too young and closed.
In the whole scheme of things, I feel as if Gruaud-Larose is producing very good, traditionally styled wines that are currently underpriced vis a vis its more illustrious second growth counterparts. And especially so when taking a closer look at its cost in relation to that of the other Saint Julien second growths in Ducru Beaucaillou, Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Barton and Leoville Poyferre, as Gruaud-Larose is generally priced ~25% less than the Barton or the Poyferre so I think there is certainly some room for it run once the masses catch on.
I own cases of the ‘09, ‘10, ‘14, ‘15 and the ‘16 all of which I bought after tasting at each respective years UGC and liking them. I also see that there is still some ‘16 available to me at its original wholesale cost so maybe I will end up increasing my exposure in this classic vintage. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Guys
The only GL I have in any quantity is the 2005 (12 OWC) plus one or two older wines.
Anyone had it lately?
As for Brett, I have mixed views, as with VA (volatile acidity). Both are technically faults and if you do get Brett, it is sometimes interesting in small amounts. But it is not easily controllable or predictable.
Historically, various technical faults were wrongly seen as regional character and I make the point that no fault - Brett, mercaptans, VA, TCA, over use of sulphur or whatever can rationally be seen as a regional character. For years mercaptans was seen as regional style in the Hunter Valley until researchers identified the “sweaty saddle” style as a fault.
I used to buy GL with some regularity - including 48 bottles of the 1985 picked up dirt cheap at auction some decades ago. It seems to have fallen off the radar somewhat. A pity really. They age well and show some complexity when mature.
Another variable with Brett is that different strains and/or different initial conditions in the bottle can produce varying mixes of the metabolic products that produce the aromas (odors?) that some like (hate?). Things like 4-EP, 4-EG, and various THPs have different aromatic profiles. https://www.etslabs.com/library/11 https://digital.library.adelaide.edu.au ... 2whole.pdf
A little smoky/spicy or barnyard can add a really pleasant complexity for me. Band-aid maybe sometimes in even smaller amounts can be a plus for my palate as well. I actually preferred those ‘80s Cordier wines with a bit of funk to later, cleaner versions. But any hint of mousy? Blecchh! Even typing it gives me the willies.
Can Brett go away? I don’t think so. Once the chemical is in the wine I think it’s pretty stable. But some of it may blow off as a wine “breathes.” And a very slightly bretty bottle coming after a heavily bretty one may not seem bretty at all.
I turned into somewhat of a fan of modern GL this past year or two, after excellent experiences with the 2004, 2010, and 2015 (disagree with Jim here). I found them all to have good complexity and Bordeaux typicity, and a good combination of substance and lightness of touch. The fully mature 2004 was fantastic and the 2015 was not too young to enjoy.
But recently had a 2009, with high hopes (first of a case) and found it very fruity but lacking in precision and focus - kind of disappointing. Definitely very rich and substantial though so who knows what it does with age. Found the very good 2010 better for now. The 2010 seemed to avoid a lot of problems typical to that vintage, as it was forceful and assertive but in no way clumsy or overdone. The tannins were well managed and crisp, not harsh.
Killer evening...well done...great to hear about the '86
I'm saving mine for a special evening...its always had a mystic about it and I've never indulged in its glory...I'm looking for the right moment.
