When I plonked the Cheval Blanc on the table the expression of relief on Jay’s face was palpable as I explained how the bottle of Mouton Cadet had gone awol. Coincidentally I had just taken delivery of some English sparkling wines so I decided to take a huge risk with one of them and serve it blind.
My chutzpah paid off as this expressive and joyful sparkling wine immediately sang from the glass with apple and citrus nose, good richness but an overall impression of being lithe and light on its feet. The 2018 Gusburne Brut Reserve from Kent in England. I am tempted to buy some more…
The 1999 Cheval Blanc is a very grown up wine and slipped down rather well as we chatted. It is certainly not a shouty or showy wine. Ostensibly it is soft and inviting with cashmere lushness but there is plenty depth of dark fruit and structure there with licorice, tobacco, black tea and other complex nuances from the cab franc. My guess is that it is not quite at its apogee yet.
The 2009 Marcoux is a long way from its peak - probably a decade - and is rich, brooding and blue fruited now. These need to be cellared. The 15% alcohol is not particularly obtrusive, but I am not sure it will ever reach the heights of the 1990 we had last week. However on Jay’s recommendation I might track down some of the regular Cuvee.
We restricted ourselves to three bottles because J&P had a very early start in the morning as they set off for Athens, but there was time a digestive at the end.
