TN: 1998 Henri Bonneau Reserve des Celestins, 2003 Rayas, 20

[HarryKaris]

Last time I enjoyed a 1998 Henri Bonneau RdC was about 1 year ago and showed very well then. BUT last night's bottle was one of the finest CdP's I ever tasted.

It was the last bottle in a row of 6 after a 1981 Beaucastel, 2003 Pegau, 2003 VV Janasse, 2003 Rayas, 2006 VV Cristia, my best friend and I enjoyed over a 5h period accompanied by great food.
Complexity and balance of this wine were more than impressive. Not a blockbuster, although concentration was above average.
Never experienced a wine with a more exciting mid palate and finish. It really made us speechless…what a wine……I really really wish every CdP lover to have a sip of this wine (at least) one time…….

1981 Beaucastel with its distinctive dungy nose showed well but not at the same level as the magnum I had recently. Many Bordeaux characteristics and it looked and tasted more matured than former bottles.

2003 Pegau was seductive, with concentrated fruity layers, less rustic than 2000, 2001, 2005 and 2006. Good balance with a long finish, great wine with high pleasure content.

2003 VV Janasse is a huge fruit bomb with black cherry and currants. Rich and superb concentrated with truffle, chocolate, Asian spices and just a tip of Garrigue - low acidity and mainly ripe tannin. Massive and thick like port, and well flavored long finish – good complexity…

2003 Rayas was open for business .......last bottle (December last year) showed closed and rather tannic. Very open character with plenty of framboise and strawberry - intensively well flavored mid palate with typical Garrigue, cedar and warm spices. Striking freshness, taking into account the hot vintage. I really liked this wine very much, light- footed and elegant with a refined spicy finish.

2006 VV Cristia is a rich wine but with some elegance and even sexy characteristics with black cherry and plum, chocolate, cinnamon and truffle. Low acidity but not ‘flabby’. The finish is medium long and very attractive. Went extremely well with….of course Dutch cheese.