2019 Vintage + Alcohol

[StBlGT]

Hello Everyone,

For those who have tasted the 2019 vintage, how does the alcohol levels feel? I think a lot of the 2018's have a "hot" chatacter to them...does this happen with the 2019 wines? For some reason I remember reading somewhere about the 2019's also suffering from this, despite the lower ABV levels...could anyone confirm this, or is this simply just not true?

Thank you all in advance!

[DavidG]

Great question. I don’t believe in applying blanket statements to an entire vintage’s production, whether it’s alcohol, ripeness, extraction, etc. There may be trends, but even in outlier years like 2003, it was a wine by wine thing.

No doubt between global warming and the potential at the time of fermentation and bottling for 25% tariffs on wines under 14% ABV, there were influences pushing for higher ABVs. At least for labels showing higher ABVs. The number on the label isn’t necessarily the number in the bottle. I’m not convinced that higher temperatures have tied winemakers’ hands regarding alcohol levels. Widespread infatuation with uber-ripeness and attendant ABVs in the 15-16% range seems to have passed.

Jeff Leve, who I regard as accurate even if our preferences differ, made this generalization based on early in-bottle tastings:

Sugar levels are high, and that means so are the alcohol levels, but the alcohol is lower than you find in 2018. Frankly, alcohol, heat or jammy qualities was not something I noticed often when tasting through the wines.

Reading through a selection of Jeff’s more recent notes on many of my favorites, alcohol does not seem to be a problem. But I think his threshold is higher than some. Like you, I’d love to hear what the trusted palates here think.

[StBlGT]

Thank you for your insight, DavidG.

Yes, I would also like to hear what other more experienced drinkers here think of this subject.

[Claudius2]

Guys
I’ve tried 33 2019s so far including wines from both banks. I also bought numerous Chateaux on en primeur and a few retail.

The left bank wines were generally 13.5% ABV to 14% with most at the lower end. None of the Medoc and Pessac wines tasted hot or burnt and offered good balance.

The right bank wines were often 14% to 14.5% and from memory one or two were 15%. A few were too alcoholic for my palate and the alcohol threw the wines out of balance. The Pomerols wines however were not to my palate too alcoholic but St Emilion was a little different. As a result I was a bit concerned about the hot character of a few wines, but most seemed balanced.

I’m quite sensitive to hi alcohol and don’t appreciate wines which are over 14%. Even that level pushes the friendship a bit and I have found over some decades now that hi alcohol wines often do not develop well.

In summary if you want to buy any 2019s I recommend the left bank with some enthusiasm but in St Emilion check the ABV and pick those with no more than 14%. Yes some exceptions can be found but these days I will no longer but wine that has over 14%.

Cheers
Mark

[Dionysus]

Highest ABV for the 2019 vintage - not a complete list by any means. Can be hard to find official figures for all estates, and indeed I've came across conflicting information for many wines.

Faugères Cuvée Péby St-Emilion GC 15.50%
Quintus St-Emilion GC 15.50%
Haut-Brion  Pessac-Léognan 15.00%
la Violette  Pomerol 15.00%
Trotanoy Pomerol 15.00%
la Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 15.00%
le Clarence de Haut-Brion  Pessac-Léognan 15.00%
Hosanna Pomerol 15.00%
Troplong-Mondot St-Emilion GC 15.00%
Clos l'Eglise Pomerol 15.00%
Trottevieille  St-Emilion GC 15.00%
Latour à Pomerol Pomerol 15.00%
Bellevue Mondotte St-Emilion GC 14.80%
le Carillon d'Angélus  St-Emilion GC 14.80%
Pavie  St-Emilion GC 14.70%
l'Evangile  Pomerol 14.60%

[Dionysus]

Some of the lowest ABV wines on the other hand:

Lafite-Rothschild  Pauillac 13.40%
les Carmes Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 13.30%
le Petit Mouton de Mouton-Rothschild  Pauillac 13.00%
Domaine de Chevalier  Pessac-Léognan 13.00%

I'm sure there are others that are just as low, I didn't get to everything.

Most wines do appear to be in the 13.5% to 14.5% range, and you could loosely say left bank closer to 13.5%, while right bank closer to 14.5%.

[Comte Flaneur]

The lowest I have come across in 2019 is D’Issan - at 13.3% - a divine wine.

Interesting that DDC was only 13% in 2019 especially as this estate has championed a more international style in the last 20 years - is this a pivot back to trying to replicate the great classic DDCs of four decades ago?

In recent years Lafite has been consistently the lowest or amongst the lowest - in 2014 Lafite was 12.6%.

[marcs]

Personally I feel like 2019s already have enough alcohol - you don’t need to add more

[StBlGT]

Some very great information...thank you all!

I was looking at picking up three of each:

Gruaud Larose - 13.6%
d'Issan - 13.3%
d'Armailhac - 13.5%

I feel much more comfortable on these purchases after the responses.

[Dionysus]

Interesting that DDC was only 13% in 2019 especially as this estate has championed a more international style in the last 20 years - is this a pivot back to trying to replicate the great classic DDCs of four decades ago?

I definitely think so Ian. The commentary from critics would support this, in particular from William Kelley:
“Since 1983, Domaine de Chevalier has naturally evolved: as new plantings came online, the wines lost some of the intensity-without-weight that had always been their signature; in the early 2000s, a concerted effort was made to attain fuller maturity and more concentration, and the wines became a little chunkier and more obviously oaky, too; but recent years have seen a return to seamless elegance, without any loss of depth or persistence. In many respects, indeed, the last few vintages of Domaine de Chevalier bear a closer stylistic kinship to the great wines produced at this address in the 1970s and before than they do to the vintages of the early 2000s. Olivier Bernard and his team, in short, are to be congratulated for ushering in a new golden age at an estate that produces one of Bordeaux’s most singular and characterful wines.”

Specifically for 2019, "The 2019 Domaine de Chevalier is a magical wine in the making, wafting from the glass with aromas of wild plums, crushed blackcurrants and violets mingled with hints of pencil shavings, subtle spices and coniferous forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with a vibrant core of fruit, beautifully refined tannins and lively acids, it's exquisitely elegant and harmonious, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. Stylistically, this wine exhibits a much closer affinity with the great Domaine de Chevalier of yesteryear than much of what was produced here in the early 2000s. It's a masterclass in what contemporary Bordeaux can deliver, and worth a special effort to seek out."

I have tasted a few of the DDC's from the early part of this century, and my experiences have very much been hit and miss. I'm glad to have a case of 2019 tucked away though and very hopeful of the new direction.

As an aside, I must say I really do dig William Kelley's critical reviews and observations. He is on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/wgfkelley/?hl=en), and I find his short videos very informative. He's also actually making wine in Burgandy these days, which, for me at least, gives him additional credibility.

[Dionysus]

Some very great information...thank you all!

I was looking at picking up three of each:

Gruaud Larose - 13.6%
d'Issan - 13.3%
d'Armailhac - 13.5%

I feel much more comfortable on these purchases after the responses.

Great choices, can't go wrong with any of these. Other's in around the same ABV are as follows:
Léoville-Barton  St-Julien 13.88%
Beychevelle  St-Julien 13.70%
Mouton-Rothschild  Pauillac 13.50%
Pontet-Canet  Pauillac 13.50%
Duhart-Milon  Pauillac 13.50%
Clerc Milon  Pauillac 13.50%

[Dionysus]

Hello Everyone,

For those who have tasted the 2019 vintage, how does the alcohol levels feel? I think a lot of the 2018's have a "hot" chatacter to them...does this happen with the 2019 wines? For some reason I remember reading somewhere about the 2019's also suffering from this, despite the lower ABV levels...could anyone confirm this, or is this simply just not true?

Thank you all in advance!

Just to address this question directly: In the main, I think the 2019 vintage is "ok" regarding ABV levels - in the main, the "hot" character you reference above is not present.

What I would say though is you have to be somewhat selective. If you are very sensitive to high ABV wines, I'd thread carefully when buying wines from the Right Bank. Do your research and you should be fine.

The lowest ABV wines from St Emillion include Ausone, Canon-La-Gaffelière, Figeac, le Petit Cheval, which are all in the 14% to 14.2% range. 14.5% + is more typical. For Pomerol, the majority of wines reside at 14.5% including l'Eglise-Clinet, Vieux Château Certan, la Conseillante, Clinet, & Gazin. Haven't found anything south of 14.5% of Pomerol.

Pessac-Léognan is a basket case...some of the lowest (Carmes, DCC) and some of the highest (Haut-Brion)

The medoc can almost be bought blind, with some notable exceptions, including forum favourite Calon, which some critics have commented on the "hot" note: "...but the fly in the ointment is an alcohol level that flirts with 15% and makes itself felt on the warm, liqueured finish. Balance isn't a matter of mere numbers, of course, but despite its admirable qualities and the serious work behind it, I do have reservations about this wine's ultimate equilibrium. Time will tell." Also William Kelley

[JimHow]

Thanks for the report Dio, I look forward to trying some this fall for myself, I have yet to partake of the 2019 vintage. I got my case of 2019 Tour St. Christophe today. Three more days of an extended wine fast and I look forward to some revelries later this week.

[StBlGT]

Dionysus, thank you for all of your detailed posts. I actually forgot about Clerc Milon...this is another chateau that I have on my radar to purchase as well.

[stefan]

"Three more days of an extended wine fast and I look forward to some revelries later this week."

I have trouble stopping and revving up, so I drink MORE wine in the days leading up to BWE events.

The label on the 2005 La Clémence Pomerol I am drinking tonight says 14% alcohol. It's a good wine but not obviously a Pomerol, and I think it would be better at 12% alcohol as it is a bit hot.

[Comte Flaneur]

Interesting that DDC was only 13% in 2019 especially as this estate has championed a more international style in the last 20 years - is this a pivot back to trying to replicate the great classic DDCs of four decades ago?

I definitely think so Ian. The commentary from critics would support this, in particular from William Kelley:
“Since 1983, Domaine de Chevalier has naturally evolved: as new plantings came online, the wines lost some of the intensity-without-weight that had always been their signature; in the early 2000s, a concerted effort was made to attain fuller maturity and more concentration, and the wines became a little chunkier and more obviously oaky, too; but recent years have seen a return to seamless elegance, without any loss of depth or persistence. In many respects, indeed, the last few vintages of Domaine de Chevalier bear a closer stylistic kinship to the great wines produced at this address in the 1970s and before than they do to the vintages of the early 2000s. Olivier Bernard and his team, in short, are to be congratulated for ushering in a new golden age at an estate that produces one of Bordeaux’s most singular and characterful wines.”

Specifically for 2019, "The 2019 Domaine de Chevalier is a magical wine in the making, wafting from the glass with aromas of wild plums, crushed blackcurrants and violets mingled with hints of pencil shavings, subtle spices and coniferous forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with a vibrant core of fruit, beautifully refined tannins and lively acids, it's exquisitely elegant and harmonious, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. Stylistically, this wine exhibits a much closer affinity with the great Domaine de Chevalier of yesteryear than much of what was produced here in the early 2000s. It's a masterclass in what contemporary Bordeaux can deliver, and worth a special effort to seek out."

I have tasted a few of the DDC's from the early part of this century, and my experiences have very much been hit and miss. I'm glad to have a case of 2019 tucked away though and very hopeful of the new direction.

As an aside, I must say I really do dig William Kelley's critical reviews and observations. He is on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/wgfkelley/?hl=en), and I find his short videos very informative. He's also actually making wine in Burgandy these days, which, for me at least, gives him additional credibility.

Thanks Conor, interesting

[Blanquito]

I trust WK’s palate more than most other critics, but color me skeptical on the DDC’s metamorphosis. I hope I’m wrong and I am keen to try a bottle, but once bitten…

[Claudius2]

Guys
I bought 2019 DDeC en primeur and just hope it is as good as suggested above. I have not tried it yet and it’s now in offsite storage.

I have cases of 09 and 10 in the storage unit as well and the 2010 was the least preferred wine at a 2010 tasting both by moi and the group. The host also said that the 09 was no better (err, he liked the 2010 better) and the wine to me was like a new world cab blend of no great interest. Sheesh I hope it develops into something or I’ll sent it to auction.

My rather jaundiced view is that DDeC has been a regular disappointment to me from the 70s onward. The trio of 88, 89 and 90 were good but no match for many other similarly priced Bordeaux. The 94 was poor, the 95 okay but no better and the 96 was another disappointment to me. Unless all were out of condition (I saw no evidence of bottle variation) the estate has had a lot of misses and few hits.

I bought the 19 on the recommendation of the importer who assured me that it is a classic style of Bordeaux and I hope he’s right.

One of my very fav Australian estates is Yarra Yarra Vineyard, run by an eccentric Scot, Ian McLean. He worked at DDeC during the 90s and explained to me that he disagreed with many of the decisions they made (Ian is NOT someone who hides his opinions) and he gave up trying to change decisions. I have to say that his wines are hand made with lots of love and attention and I ask him to send them to me in Singapore whenever visit the Yarra. Sadly his vineyard was almost totally wiped out in the Black Friday bushfires several years ago as was the winery. Decades of hard work was wiped out in one day and he’s slowly reestablished the vineyard but the old vines are no more. The wines are no longer commercially available and I wonder what will happen to the estate as Ian is now in his mid 70s.

Cheers
Mark

[DavidG]

DDC was not among my 2019 en primeur purchases because of its excessively modern style. I went ahead and bought some after reading William Kelly’s note. Time will tell.

[Claudius2]

David
Yes time will tell but my expectations for more modern style wines are now grim after many years of hi alcohol Australian wines. They were expected to live for decades as they were concentrated but the opposite happened.

I’ve learned the hard way that wines which don’t show balance young rarely show it later. C’est la vie.

[Musigny 151]

I did an old DDC tasting a few years ago, stopping in the late 1980s. It was a tasting that I think changed the minds of those who knew only the newer vintages. They were among the most interesting, terroir driven wines I know, lacking a smidgeon of the high intensity in the La Missions and Haut Brion. And it is only a smidgeon, and not always the case; the 1953 is serious first growth quality.

I know Izak will be pulling his hair out as I speak somewhat disparagingly of newer vintages, and I do hope William Kelly is right when he says that it is reverting to more terroir driven wines.