La Mission burnishes its first growth credentials

[Comte Flaneur]

Unlike Ch. Haut-Brion, Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion is not in the 1855 classification. Last night in the sixth of our series of ‘first growth’ dinners at La Trompette in Chiswick, West London, the theme was Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion.

The evening amply demonstrated that La Mission is easily equivalent to first growth in quality based on vintages we tried from 1961 to 1995. Last year the 1996 was third placed in our 25th anniversary 1996 dinner behind Lafite and Margaux.

Just based on last night and the other five dinners we held, La Mission is also in the top three quality wise along with Lafite and Margaux more generally and above Haut-Brion, Latour and Mouton. This is worth noting because La Mission generally trades at prices more in line with Ch Palmer than the other first growths.

With canapés

Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1999

This was a delightful sharpener. Quite light and quaffable for a Winston, but beautifully balanced, rich, and light in its feet. In a really good place now - 93


With roasted beetroot, smoked eel, taramasalata, sweet mustard dressing

Laville Haut-Brion 1982

This had a timeless light colour, lighter than its flight mate 22 years it’s junior; a brilliantly complex multi-faceted wine with lime citrus cocooned in lanolin constantly changing and evolving with grapefruit, stone fruits, floral, herb and mineral notes. Thrillingly good - 96 - my fourth placed wine, group fourth equal

Laville Haut-Brion 2004

Not only was this darker than its older flight mate it had an off putting oxidative note. It was not clear if this was oxidised or premoxed; at the least it was annoyingly oxidative - shame because the raw materials underneath were good - 85/NR


With grouse breast, crushed roots, blackberries and bacon

La Mission Haut-Brion 1961

Opened but not decanted by Howard in the afternoon this opened up gloriously well in the glass for an imperious 45 or so minutes. It was so good that it towered over everything else we drank last night. Perfumed, complex nose, with tertiary notes of old leather and dusty library; vibrant, taut, rich red and black fruits; it had such energy, fantastic structure, intensity and drive like other great 1961s, overlaid with kaleidoscopic complexity with earth and tobacco, and after half an hour sweet red fruits and molasses - a tour de force. After an hour it retreated somewhat then waxed and waned - at its pinnacle for those glorious 45 minutes it was a 100 point wine - I wrote down 99 - my wotn, group third

La Mission Haut-Brion 1978

Super soil nose overlaid with a refreshing green note; it conspicuously lacked the intensity and the high-wired drama of the 1961; by contrast it had a much more laid back persona but this is a beautifully resolved La Mission with really complex smoky and earthy volcanic mineral overtones - 96 - my second wine, group fourth equal


With venison saddle, potato galettes, chanterelles, peppercorn sauce

La Mission Haut-Brion 1983

Came across as dark and austere compared to the previous two, with dark chocolatey notes but much less expression; quite austere and backward for a 1983, it did open a bit more over the evening; good but the least impressive of the reds; I am sure an evening with this on its own would give ample pleasure, however - 92

La Mission Haut-Brion 1985

Similar to the 1983 with dark matter notes, a little bit more expressive and giving than the 1983 especially as it opened over the evening; menthol notes emerge with tobacco and cigar box in low key. A classy wine - 93

La Mission Haut-Brion 1988

Surprisingly the 1988 was by far the the most impressive wine in this flight of three - a wine which was cloaked in austere tannins a decade or two ago. While it lacked the full-bodied rock star flamboyance of the 1989 and 1990 in the following flight, in an important way it was a more satisfying experience because it was unadulterated classical La Mission, beautifully poised and nuanced, with nothing hanging out, with compelling cool notes of tar with a enthralling tension and nervosity - the surprise package of the night, just brilliant - 96 - my third placed wine, group sixth


Next flight

La Mission Haut-Brion 1989

Big, brooding, dense, mouth-filling with richness and power. Clearly a superstar with a glorious future ahead. My guess it will be at its peak in 20-30 years from now. Bottle number eight from a case purchased soon after release, and all consumed too early, I wish I had purchased the Haut-Brion 1989 instead, despite it being less reliable, because when it is on form it is the more thrilling wine. I think the genuine 1961-like thrills are some way ahead for the 1989 La Mish, but you can’t help but admire this titan of a wine. But for current drinking give me the 1978 or 1988 over this any day. I am going to put my last three bottles away for several years, sorry - 96 - group wotn, my sixth placed wine

La Mission Haut-Brion 1990

More flattering and hedonistic than the 1989, the 1990 has a gorgeous scorched earth entry into a lux palate; the most sybaritic La Mission, but I would not list decadence and hedonism as La Mission’s most endearing traits. So wonderful as this 1990 La Mission is, like the 1989 it did not make my top five - 96 - group runner up - my seventh placed wine

La Mission Haut-Brion 1995

While most of the table thought the 1989 and 1990 were the clear stars of the show, and clearly they are spectacular wines, I found the less exuberant 1995 ultimately more satisfying for similar reasons as to why I was so enthralled by the 1988. This is nevertheless quite a weighty, chewy and rumbustious wine - a bigger wine than the 1988 - but already delivering great pleasure with a terrific future ahead of it. It was the star of our Nov 2019 1995 dinner along with Haut-Brion and last night reminded me why - 96 - my fifth placed wine, group seventh placed


With passion fruit Alaska, mango, kiwi, lime and mint

Ch Tirecul La Graviere Cuvee Madame 2001 and 1996

Both very sweet, the 2001 was the better wine as it had good balancing acidity which the 1996 lacked; matched well with the dessert - 93 (2001) and 90 (1996)

[Comte Flaneur]

[SF Ed]

I am a huge fan of La Mish. I went to an epic tasting about 20 years ago where the 1959 was the star and is still one of the greatest red wines I've ever tasted.

Too bad you didn't have the 1998 in your tasting. I don't think it is going to be drinking at peak for a while but it is one of my faves of the vintage.

SF Ed

[Comte Flaneur]

Gosh Ed imagine if we had the ‘59 as well?!

The ‘61 was probably the best I have tried from that vintage - others marked it down after it faded after an hour but I think that is somehow missing the point

Prior to the dinner I read some of Stuart’s notes on the 61 Mish. I was pretty buzzed because Stu is a tough scorer.

The 1998 didn’t qualify: obviously far too young, likewise the 2000.

[Blanquito]

Holy wow! What a night! Along with Latour, Latour a Pomerol, and Palmer, isn’t the 61 LMHB reputed to be the WOTV?

I loved both bottles of the 89 LMHB you brought to Denver, Ian, but it seemed the youngest wine that Saturday night at the Convention with only the 89 LLC and Petrus giving it any competition for most primordial wine of the night.

Last year in DC, David was pouring the 00 Haut Brion and 00 LMHB, and while both were divine, for once I clearly preferred the La Mission which was giving up far more right now than the 89.

[stefan]

You must be worn out from tasting fabulous wines in many tastings, Ian, and writing up such wonderful reports afterwards. Congratulations!

[marcs]

Ian! Fly to DC for BWE DC next weekend! You can do it! Yeah it’s a little crazy to fly 12 hours round trip just to hang out with us but it will be worth it!

[DavidG]

Another fantastic event and report Ian. I’m an unabashed Haut Brion fan but have to admit that La Miss is often its equal or better when tasted side by side.

[Comte Flaneur]

Thanks for all the comments - I would love to join you guys in DC but Britain is now a banana republic and we Brits can’t afford to travel to America now. While I won’t be there physically I will be there in spirit and wish you a fantastic convention.

[JimHow]

From one banana republic to another, we will toast you, Mr. Flaneur!

[marcs]

When we finally reach dollar-pound parity we will all celebrate by flying to London and having a BWE gathering with you there Ian!

[dstgolf]

Ian,

Even with a flagging pound you continue to live large. Another incredible tasting that makes us all envious. Thanks for continuing to share your wonderful notes on these events and keep well through these tumultuous times.

[s*d*r]

Great notes as usual, Ian. And what a treat to taste so many top and interesting vintages.

I’ve always thought La Mission Haut-Brion was FG quality and in many vintages equal or superior to Haut-Brion.

LMHB to me is like Haut-Brion on steroids but not in a pejorative way. Sometimes, as in 1966, it can be too smoky though.

I too have found the ‘82 Laville to be amazingly good and energetic. To me, Laville ages better and more consistently than any other white Graves, far exceeding Haut-Brion Blanc with rare exceptions.

The ‘61 LMHB is consistently one of the top five of the vintage and on any given night can reign supreme.

The ‘82 is great but lately I’m finding the wonderful ‘89 even better.

We did some LMHBs earlier this year in Florida with a few BWEers to compare with the Haut-Brions but on that night it seemed the Haut-Brion star shined a little better.

Very interesting menu at Trompette, too.

Bravo.

[Nicklasss]

Stunning compte rendu, on a great wine.

I have tasted eay more vintages of Haut Brion, than La Mission.

The 1989 you brought to Denver in 2019 was my wine of the night.

The 2002 i had with dstgolf was having a nice nose, but the mouth not following.

The 1995 i brought in SF in 2017 was still very young, while the 1998 that same night was drinking better.

The 1985-1986 i brought to NYC in 2003 were excellent, the 1985 being even kinda magic!

Does it equal the other 1st? Yes. But needmore years to me than the Haut-Brion.

[JimHow]

I had a 1983 at my brother Tom's wedding back in 2001 that was just sublime and a point at the time, 20+ years ago.
By sheer coincidence, I was sipping it with my sister in law's cousins, who are related to the Dillon family.

[Claudius2]

I had a 1983 at my brother Tom's wedding back in 2001 that was just sublime and a point at the time, 20+ years ago.
By sheer coincidence, I was sipping it with my sister in law's cousins, who are related to the Dillon family.

Jim
Well I had the same in the mid 2000’s at a tasting and it was wonderful - I treasured every drop.
In any case I’ve argued for a long time that LMHB is every bit as good as the Premiers Crus

Somehow I hardly ever see it over here in Singapore and I’m kicking myself for leaving the few vintages I had behind in Aust - which later were sent to Auction.

In the case of Ian’s notes I can only assume that the individual bottle was out of condition or flawed.

Cheers
Mark

[jckba]

Nice notes as usual Comte on another splendid vertical across the pond. I’ve had the ‘83 LMHB a half dozen times over the past 5-6 years and it has been variable with good bottles definitely registering in that 94-96 range but last year my buddy Ross brought a bottle to a dinner and it was not as focused and a little lacking compared to prior experiences not to mention that it was served alongside a ‘83 Lalande that was absolutely, positively in the zone. I am guessing that part of the variability aspect may have to do with the fact that the wine is now closing in on 40 years of age so bottles with imperfect storage might be more discernible at this stage.

Sadly, I own 0 bottles of LMHB as it pretty much always traded in a price-point higher than I was swimming in.

[Musigny 151]

Great notes. I tasted the ‘61 ten years and it was great without being mind blowing, and a ‘61 Margaux was.

La Mission is generally one of my favorites, and I have had great bottles of 1978, 1982 and 1995. A real sleeper is the 1998.

[AlexR]

Hi Ian,

I'm weighing in rather late in the game here.

Wonderful notes Ian.
Clearly, you consider LMHB a de facto first growth.
In most situations where I've compared HB and LMHB I've preferred the former because of what I perceived as it's greater elegance.
But this is not always the case.

Domaine Dillon tells us that former great growth La Tour Haut Brion has become La Chpelle de la Mission Haut Bion but, as always in such cases, you can never be sure what becomes second wine and what becomes grand vin...

You seemed to have preferred the older wines to the younger ones.
Would you attribute this to the a change in style or simply La Mission's need for decades to reach the balance you prefer?

All the best,
Alex

[Musigny 151]

Laville Haut Brion sounded premoxed. Burgundy gets all the bad press, but white Bordeaux has been problematic.