1996 Haut Brion

[NoahR]

Opened for my birthday. A bit austere and tannic, keeping with the vintage, settled a bit after a few hours in decanter. Decent density but not sweet. Tobacco and leafy in spades, a touch of saddle leather, cassis and tart berry fruit.

This is a solid and rich Bordeaux, but it lacked finesse and never really blossomed into anything interesting, even after long decant. It has the density and tannins to age further. Whether it picks up a tertiary nuance that delights is a separate matter. I have one more bottle that I’ll keep for another decade.

I expect First Growths to blow me out of the water. This did not.

[Comte Flaneur]

When we did a 1996 25th anniversary dinner in late 2001 this wine fell short of what we were hoping for/expecting, was well down the pecking order and clearly played second fiddle to the much more dynamic and thrilling La Mission. The 1995 HB seems to be significantly better than the 1996.

[JoelD]

Always a sad night when a first growth doesn't hold up. I feel like I keep hearing this about most of the 96 firsts for some reason. I wonder if they just need a bit more time?

Now I feel a little bit better about missing out on a couple bottles of this though. I've really enjoyed the "off" vintages of Haut Brion over the last few years. Makes me want to seek out an 87 in London.

[Nicklasss]

Hi Noah.

Sad to read about your experience with a 1996 of the most prestigious Graves. Never had it, and reviews are excellent, but this is always a balance between expectation and the actual bottle that you open…

I guess this is why i like so much wines like Cantemerle or Sociando or Lagrange, as expectations are lower than for the First Growth.

[stefan]

My experiences with 1996 Haut-Brion have been very good, but I think the wine is still on the upslope.

[Blanquito]

Is Haut Brion the most “old fashioned” First Growth? I got that impression when we visited there in 10/21. (I’ve not visited Latour but I’ve seen photos).

Definitely not meant as a criticism, but the contrast with Chateau Margaux — with its modern vat room, futuristic, sprawling underground bunker, and enormous wine “ark” — visited the day before was obvious.

[NoahR]

Great comments all around.

Love this board. Was so sad to miss the last DC gathering…