Cheval Blanc vertical dinner

[Comte Flaneur]

We had the seventh of our first growth vertical series dinners on Thursday - Chateau Cheval Blanc. We managed to assemble a formidable-looking line up: 1964, 1966, 1975, 1978 (which turned out to be 1973 because the label was scuffed), 1982, 1983 (which starred at our London BWE finale), 1985, 1988, 1989 and 1990. These were topped and tailed by 2002 Cristal and 1967 and 1983 Suduiraut.

The 2002 Cristal was really very good - rich, sophisticated and sauve - and unlike the 2008 tried a few weeks ago was just about entering its drinking window.

The opening two Chevals from the 1960s were so good they brought a tear to my eye, as a hush descended over the room. Of the two I gave the nod to the 1964 because of its beguiling ethereal nose and its poise refinement and finesse on the palate, which were just breathtaking. The 1966 was a little bit more high toned and had a bit more power and persistence but both were absolutely stunning and thrilling.

In the next flight we had the 1973 and the 1975. The 1973 was dilute but fun to drink - a bit like cold tea and would be perfect on a hot day. The 1975 was slightly marred by an odour which was quite peaty and never really dissipated fully…a shame because there is a great wine underneath…1975 is generally a better vintage on the right bank than the left bank. Tim’s magnum of the 1975 with BWE in Bordeaux in 2015 was sensational, so this was a comparative disappointment. It wasn’t corked though and credit to the table for giving it the benefit of that particular doubt.

On to the next flight where the 1983 was matched against the 1988 and 1989.The 1983 had as good a nose as the 1966 but was a bit short on the palate. A few weeks ago it was the wine of the night at the BWE finale, so this bottle was certainly below par. Some even thought it was slightly corked…but that was by no means apparent straight away. The 1989 was definitely considered by the group to be an ‘aIso ran’ on the night. I really liked it and I would still say it is on the young side. The 1988 was a revelation like the 1988 La Mission. It was notably leaner than the other wines, but that made for an interesting contrast.

In the final flight the 1982 was matched up against the 1985 and the 1990. The 1982 was different to the one we had at our 1982 FG dinner in November, which was more flamboyant but also below the best I have encountered. This 1982 came across as brooding and young and all the component parts were there…but it didn’t sing…like the 1985, which had it all and was deservedly the group wotn. It was just stunning, heavenly, with plenty of energy and finesse, as Gareth said a wine which is both intellectual and fun…very few wines are both. The 1990 was still on the upslope but another epic wine in the making. If you have any, no rush, but this will challenge the best wines ever made at this estate.

On the night you could group the Cheval Blancs into three tiers: tier three: the 1973, 1975 and 1983. In tier two: 1982, 1988 and 1989 and in the top tier: 1964, 1966 and 1985. Based on this tasting dinner Cheval Blanc is right up there with the very best we have encountered in this series: Lafite and La Mission.

Of the two Suduirauts I preferred the 1967, which was a treat.

[Comte Flaneur]

An amazing lamb dish with the 1982 flight

[Comte Flaneur]

[s*d*r]

Bravo, Ian!

I’ve found Cheval Blanc to be more inconsistent that the FGs. Vintages such as ‘64, ‘66, ‘82 and ‘90 vary from fabulous to mediocre. Of course some of that is due to provenance but some seems due to other factors.

But 2002 Cristal is reliably wonderful and fully in the zone.

[stefan]

Great lineup! '64 Cheval Blanc is to die for, and the '82 CB is one of my favorites from that vintage.

[Blanquito]

We are not worthy. [bowing emoji]

[SF Ed]

Great write up and a great lineup!

I've been lucky enough to have 1964 Cheval Blanc at least twice, and both times courtesy of very generous BWEers. Twenty years ago s*d*r brought a fantastic 1964 Cheval Blanc to my house which blew away my 1964 Haut Brion, and more recently tim brought one with him on an SF trip that was singing. I am not surprised that a good bottle was a top wine that evening. I haven't had the 1966 for about 20 years but it was a great wine then. (Sidenote - I used to drink a lot of good wine. That was a lot easier/more affordable 20 years ago).

I was less enamored than you with the 1983 Cheval Blanc we drank in London, but it certainly showed how great Cheval Blanc is as a winery/site. I wish I got to drink it more often. I have none in my cellar, unfortunately.

SF Ed

[Harry C.]

What, no 2003?

[Musigny 151]

Great tasting.
I always enjoy doing a 1982/1983 and 1985 flight, and can never predict the outcome.

[robert goulet]

Awesome

Old bordeaux is where its at...I had the 1983 Cheval a few yrs back...I found it lovely

[Nicklasss]

Nice report Ian.

A wine I did not had often, but have appreciated every time. Tim 1975 magnum was great in Bordeaux in 2015. I visited JScott in Cincinnati in 2007, and he opened a 1982 that was still young but great. And the 1983 that HM$ brought in London was glorious, the best Bordeaux that night. And somehow, I miss the sdr 1947 last February…

[JimHow]

I rated the Stuart Roberts 1947 Cheval Blanc 100 points in Ft. Lauderdale because, even at age 76, it displayed the same type of balance and finesse that we experienced with the 1995 Cheval Blanc we had from half bottle when Houndsong came to Maine a few years back. The 1947 was very alive and fresh. As I’ve said before I’ve always wondered whether I would even find that wine appealing because of the descriptions of its port like profile, I’ve imagined it all these years to be a hot, alcoholic, over the top freak. Au contraire! It indeed had a distinctive port note to it but, uniquely, maintained its balance and finesse. It was a wine like nothing I’ve ever tasted before. 100+ points.

[JoelD]

Another Epic tasting for Ian. Sad about the 1983 not showing that well. But that one at the Saturday blowout was amazing and my WOTN also. The 78 is the one Cheval I currently own, although it's a bit of an iffy bottle. So we'll see!

[Claret]

Cheval Blanc is my favorite Bordeaux. Sadly I do not have any left.

The 1974 23 years ago was a light weight CB, poured by a generous friend who got it cheap at auction, fun to drink. The 82 was my favorite at a 82 vertical in 92 among a few Firsts. My bottle consumed in around 08 seemed to be fading and less involving. Excellent but not profound.

The 85 in the late 90's was very good. A 92 in the early aughts was like the 74, light weight, nice wine but limited by the vintage.

The 64 was a glorious bottle around 02.

[Hm$(still)]

I will confess to having had very few bottles (‘82, ‘75 from Tim, ‘89 and ‘90, and now ‘83) but each time I have thought that along with PLL and Palmer it’s exactly what I want out of an aged Bordeaux, even if it was not WOTN.

Hm$

[JimHow]

That 83 Cheval Blanc was a treat in London, HM$, thank you for bringing it. It had all the class of Cheval Blanc combined with the understated greatness of the 1983 vintage, what a treat to drink it side by side with the 75 Petrus. If I were you I would keep those other two bottles.