Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

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jal
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Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by jal »

More of a travelogue than a wine post, and in truth it's because we really didn't want to go to high end on wines and just decided to order either an Albarino or a Txakolina when we wanted white and a Crianza or a Ribeira when we wanted Tinto. We did also enjoy the odd glass of Cava.

Let's start with Hotels
Barcelona
ONE shot Aragó 257. We stayed 3 nights
The good: Excellent location, right next to the Passeig de Gracia, nonexistent lobby, good size room, excellent bed and linens, excellent shower. Quiet. Not too expensive (relatively)
The less good: No TV in the room (which didn’t matter much) no a/c which would have probably been a bummer in the summer, no place to sit or put a suitcase to open, no restaurant or café on premises, though plenty nearby. But the worst is I had trouble sleeping in the room, it was too stuffy. Not going back

Zaragoza
NH Gran hotel. We stayed 2 nights
Good location, nice room, much more modern with all the amenities. Beautiful old hotel with a modern renovation.

Haro
Los Augustinos. Stayed 1 night. Thanks JC
Wow, old school but charming and delightful. Loved it. Beautiful inside patio with a great buffet breakfast. Really really special

Bilbao
Gran hotel Domine. Stayed 1 night
Excellent location, room looking at the Guggenheim and the Jeff Koons puppy, modern, chic, good restaurant, but valet parking was €25 and the hotel was full of American tourists.

San Sebastian
Hotel Londres stayed 2 nights, thanks JC and Danny
A beautiful hotel, splurged for a room with a view of the bay, stunning, great service, not pretentious at all, wish we could stay longer. Only issue was the self parking at €27 a day is a ripoff when one could park in the same parking lot for a fraction of that.

Restaurants and Bars:
Barcelona
Cuines de Santa Caterina, near the Santa Caterina market for decent tapas, Good patatas bravas and yummy grilled cuttlefish.
Edition Hotel Roof bar
Had an expensive Jack Daniels, crowded, overrated view.
7 Portes
Excellent paella, good service, crowded
Batea
Absolutely stupendous; A jewel, but there are not many tables, and a reservation is difficult, but great imaginative food, especially the appetizers, not too expensive. Go without hesitation.
Caelis – One Michelin Star
Excellent, expensive but that is expected Great service, great food. We had four white wines by the glass, interesting and different. Probably one of the better restaurants we’ve been to in the last few years.
Caelis Wines.jpg
Zaragoza
Tajo Bajo was mentioned in a blog recommended by Danny T. https://wineddinedandrested.com/. Excellent salad and by far the best potato croquettes anywhere in the galaxy.
Bar Circo for tapas where we had the best out of at least a dozen tortillas de patates we sampled all over Northern Spain. Light, fluffy, perfectly seasoned. I have made tortillas de patates myself countless times, never have I come even close to this one!

Logrones
Tapas crawl during Saturday lunch. Crowded, fun, tasty, nothing too overdone. Wash the tapas down with house Txakolinas or Cidras

Haro
We skipped dinner, the tapas in Logrones did us in and we were both nursing a bad cold

San Sebastian
Tapas crawl
Bar Sport for good patatas bravas and a nice sea urchin mousse, came back for a great cheesecake at the end of the crawl.
Bar Martinez for decent cod croquettes, and a rare excellent salad.
La Cucharra de San Telmo for the sensational roasted goat cheese with grilled chiles and chile emulsion

Kokotxa – One Michelin Star
Only place we could get in, market menu was imaginative with the asparagus dish and the lamb shoulder being the stars, I asked the sommelier for an interesting white that could stand up to fish and meat, he recommended an Iri Txakolina (see photo) with interesting salinity and some oxidative notes. A fun experience.

Wineries
Well we didn’t really visit, Haro had a bunch of bodegas that sold tastings; Lopez de Heredia, Muga, Rioja Alta and more, we skipped them as these are wines we are pretty familiar with and we both had a cold.
On the road from Logrones to Haro we stopped at
Marques de Riscal for a incredible sight of the Frank Gehry designed hotel, we had a glass of Riserva with a cheese platter on the hotel patio.
MdR Winery.jpg
At Ysios we just admired the incredible architecture. My photos of both do not do them justice.
Ysios Winery.jpg
Overall I thought the food was fun but I got tired of tapas after a while, and the dining hours make for a weird travel schedule. The two different Michelin starred restaurants were excellent but I wouldn’t travel to Catalunya and Basque Country for that.

About wines, I love Rioja and other Spanish wines and buy and drink them with pleasure but these can be found everywhere and their prices are going up fast making them less competitive with French and Italians comparable wines.

Sights
The sights on the other hand were wonderful; In my very humble opinion, the Sagrada Familia puts anything Rome and Florence have to offer to shame and that includes the Sistine Chapel and the Duomo (sorry TomInDC). The Park Guell, the Casa Mila, the Casa Batlo and all other Gaudi structures and designs were just amazing.
Sagrada light.jpg
We walked a lot, the Ramblas, the Passeig de Gracia, the Jewish Quarter and the Gothic Quarter, we took a funicular and a cable car to visit Montjuic, the Castel and the wonderful Joan Miro Foundation with its beautiful views of the city, I liked the Picasso Museum well enough but I thought the Paris museum of the same name is better.
We took a day trip to Monserrat to breath some mountain air and visit the monastery with the awesome views.
The Guggenheim in Bilbao is stunning outside and in, even if I wasn't crazy about some of the exhibits.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TQxixA2UAWQFkEfz8

San Sebastian is a lovely city, with a beautiful beach and a charming old town.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/61QEKGGecBtWYPpr7

The countryside is warm and inviting with easy polite driving everywhere. We stopped in Pamplona to pay homage to Papa Hemingway’s bust and the streets where the bulls will run free in July.

Next visit to Spain we will try Valencia for a real paella, Andalusia and the Costa del Sol.
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Best

Jacques
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stefan
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by stefan »

Great description, Jacques; thanks for sharing. You did and saw a lot in a short time!
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Blanquito
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

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Sounds great, thanks for the report, which I read with keen interest as our family vacation for this summer was supposed to head to the same areas. However, we got serious sticker shock when looking at airfares and hotels there for June, so we’ve tabled the trip for a future date.
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Nicklasss
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

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Blanquito wrote: Fri Apr 28, 2023 12:59 am Sounds great, thanks for the report, which I read with keen interest as our family vacation for this summer was supposed to head to the same areas. However, we got serious sticker shock when looking at airfares and hotels there for June, so we’ve tabled the trip for a future date.
Come on Pat. If you maintain your wine buying freeze until September, you should be able to pay for these vacations in Spain easily...
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Nicklasss
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

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Nice summary jal. Good pictures too. I will go one day, but not soon i guess.

My father told me last weekend that he is not finding anyone to go with him on an african safari... i call that an opportunity...
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jal
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by jal »

Thanks Bill, the only thing we missed is we usually try to go to some concert (classical or other) when we travel, we couldn't get anything anywhere this time.

Nicolas, nothing like an African safari. A once in a lifetime trip! Go!

We also got sticker shock Patrick.
Decent (not great) hotels in Barcelona were going for over $300 a night and that's why I went with the One Shot at half the price. We tried to limit dining to mostly tapas, didn't splurge on expensive wines anywhere and used points for all hotels outside Barcelona. The rental car was pretty cheap (Opel Astra, great on gas mileage, about $300 rental for a week), surprisingly 25% cheaper to rent from Sixt on Expedia than on the Sixt website.
Best

Jacques
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JCNorthway
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by JCNorthway »

Thanks for sharing your notes, Jacques. Looks like some good research for others planning a trip to these areas.
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Jay Winton
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by Jay Winton »

Thank you Jacques. We are contemplating travel to Spain next spring. We loved Barcelona but so much to see in Spain.
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jal
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by jal »

JCNorthway wrote: Fri Apr 28, 2023 3:20 pm Thanks for sharing your notes, Jacques. Looks like some good research for others planning a trip to these areas.
That's why I posted in such boring detail, Jon :D
Best

Jacques
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Blanquito
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by Blanquito »

Nicklasss wrote: Fri Apr 28, 2023 1:33 am
Blanquito wrote: Fri Apr 28, 2023 12:59 am Sounds great, thanks for the report, which I read with keen interest as our family vacation for this summer was supposed to head to the same areas. However, we got serious sticker shock when looking at airfares and hotels there for June, so we’ve tabled the trip for a future date.
Come on Pat. If you maintain your wine buying freeze until September, you should be able to pay for these vacations in Spain easily...
Lol!

I’m saving up for Quebec City!
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JCNorthway
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by JCNorthway »

Jacques, you just missed crossing paths with big names by a few days. :)

https://www.yahoo.com/news/obama-spielb ... 29264.html
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dstgolf
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by dstgolf »

JAL,

Great review and happy you had a good time. In Montjuic did you see the evening Magic Fountain and if not to anyone visiting Barcelona it was truly a memorable highlight not to be missed. Gaudi influence everywhere was a fabulous treat to behold for sure. You would have enjoyed Logrono but...

As for price of hotels everyone is travelling and prices have gone crazy everywhere. We found an AirBNB in Costa del Sol that was fabulous and cheap by comparison to a hotel so I think it's still the way to go at least in Spain.

We found the same with Tapas/Pinxtos tending to get boring with time. Variations of the same and the Spanish restaurants all seem to do the same stuff with little variation. They do have some fabulous dining but you have to do your research. Yes there are Michelin star restaurants that you leave your first born as a deposit with the reservation but it's the local gems that you find by word of mouth that are reasonably priced and have great food in some unusual unexpected locals that were the memories that we mostly cherished.

Once I return from Toronto I'll try and do a similar review of our time on the Costa del Sol that we just loved as well for those wanting to check out Spain. % weeks and we just scratched the surface....we'll just have to go back next year!!
Danny
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JimHow
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by JimHow »

Wow sounds like a great trip, definitely on the bucket list, would have been there by now but for the pandemic.
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jckba
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by jckba »

Jacques, nice write up of your trip, but, it does prompt the question, so when are you going to be back in NYC next?
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jal
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Re: Trip to Barcelona, Rioja, Basque Region. Long

Post by jal »

Jay Winton wrote: Fri Apr 28, 2023 3:42 pm Thank you Jacques. We are contemplating travel to Spain next spring. We loved Barcelona but so much to see in Spain.
You'd love it Jay!
JCNorthway wrote: Fri Apr 28, 2023 7:38 pm Jacques, you just missed crossing paths with big names by a few days. :)

https://www.yahoo.com/news/obama-spielb ... 29264.html
Ha! Maybe that's why everything was so ridiculously expensive
jckba wrote: Sat Apr 29, 2023 3:11 pm Jacques, nice write up of your trip, but, it does prompt the question, so when are you going to be back in NYC next?
I think it may not be before the fall, JC. We will be there for a few weeks, though, I'll touch base first. Overdue for a get together!
Best

Jacques
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