Another Bordeaux dinner

[Comte Flaneur]

At Noize where we had the BWE London convention

First up 2006 Comtes De Champagne and the 2011 Ygrec we drank with gougeres. The Comtes was ever so effortlessly caressing and classy with such finesse. It is in a beautiful place. 93 points

The 2011 Ygrec was fabulous though it did split opinions. Mathieu didn’t really care for it but he doesn’t really like Sauvignon Blanc. I didn’t just love it, I <<lurved>> it. It had citrus and tropical fruits with floral notes and some rocky minerally overtones. It is one of those wines that lures you in gently and seduces you with its wares, and it is a wine for the ages. 94

Flight one - right bank

1998 Chateau Figeac - very much in line with the bottle I drank a couple of weeks ago, with tapenade, hedgerow, dark fruits and tobacco notes, it was not the wine that got lost in this flight, same score as last time, 95, but could gain a point a decade.

1999 Cheval Blanc - this was the wine that got lost in the flight. Despite being nearly a quarter of a century old this bottle was shy and reticent, but it was still a pleasure to consume with its gentle caressing cashmere texture and subtle tobacco notes. 93

2014 Vieux Chateau Certan - rather than slot in the 1998, 2001 or 2004 - Antoine’s wedding year - I decided to go with this having enjoyed a sensational bottle in the VCC cellar with the tall laconic Alexandre Thienpont. This bottle was very good but could have benefitted from being served a bit cooler because it is a wine of remarkable purity and precision. Still quite primary, the fruit is perfectly pitched, it is a wine which is very enjoyable already, but which will undoubtedly become even better as it develops more nuance with age. 95

Flight two - St Julien

1996 Ducru Beaucaillou - this blasts out of the gate all guns blazing, with its glorious bouquet and powerful follow through on the palate. Everything is on show here: cedar, cigar, box, lead pencil, but at the same time it is classical, traditional and strict. A winning combination and rightly one of the most popular wines on the table. 95. But only the third best of three 96s on the night in my book and the Latour was a step up.

2000 Gruaud Larose - also classically fashioned with a lot of mid palate heft, and unlike the Ducru a bit of horsiness which harked back to the legendary Gruauds of the 1980s with their cordier funk. This Gruaud is in a good place like the Ducru with a lick of Asian spices and hoisin/crispy duck, to add interest on the back end. However this wine was slightly outclassed by its flight mates. 93

2002 Leoville Lascases - savoury dark fruits with a beguiling nose with lead pencil and tobacco. A wine I picked up in the states which Patrick and Tom shipped over for me. It is not as exuberant as its flight mates but was the classiest wine of the three, with such finesse. Like the other two it is drinking well now. I have four left to over the next 15 years or so. 95

Flight three: Margaux

2001 D’Issan - it had an exuberant Margaux berry nose but dropped off diagonally on the palate. Something not quite right here. To me it was slightly flawed, though not obviously corked. I have had better bottles. NR

1999 Palmer - consistent with previous experiences - a mesmerising entry, medium-bodied with a lean persona and not a lot of heft on the mid palate - subtle mint, florals, berry, blood and truffle notes - beautifully refined with a little residual tannic bite on the back end. Like the Lascases it exudes breeding and refinement. 95

1999 Chateau Margaux - a bit more heft than the Palmer and also a contender for wine of the vintage, this was on good form, but I was quite struck this time how youthful it was. Layered and refined, as it unfurls it comes at you relentlessly in waves. 96

Flight four - Pessac Léognan

2004 Smith Haut-Lafitte - a BWE fave, full on and exuberant Graves with scorched earth, camphor, graphite, plummy fruit and minerally tones in abundance. This is in such a good place, but just could not quite match the sheer class of its illustrious flight mates. 93

1998 Haut-Brion - this is still evolving at a glacial pace and is still probably a decade away from its apogee. Multi-faceted, flamboyant, harmonious and refined, and destined for greatness. 97 now, higher later.

1996 La Mission Haut Brion - wilder and more exuberant than the Haut-Brion, with rocky minerality and thrilling tension and nervosity. This also needs plenty more time. 97

Flight five - Pauillac

1989 Mouton Rothschild - this wine stole the show and our hearts, benefitting from being fully mature, a wine at the top of its game and at its apogee. All the more remarkable for a wine which has come in for more than its fair share of sledging over the years. Double decanted at 5pm it has a glorious pure red fruited compote and Christmas spice entry, with classic leafy tobacco, cigar box lead pencil and autumnal bonfire notes. This is not a big dense behemoth like the 1986 and all the better for it. It is dextrous and light on its feet, effortlessly seamless, classy, harmonious and charismatic. Not bad for a luncheon claret. 98

1997 Lafite - while this is probably the wine of the vintage it was outclassed in a pincer movement in this flight by the Mouton and Latour from more illustrious vintages. It is still on the young side and an immaculate, quintessentially proper claret, but without the flair and magic of its flight mates. 94

1996 Latour - we had an iffy bottle at our November 2021 1996 25th anniversary tasting. Well this was a superb bottle, and the pick of the 1996s on the night. Even younger than the Mission it has the regal authority and gravitas of a great Latour. This is not far behind Lafite and Margaux the standard setters in the 1996 vintage. 98

1963 Yquem - brown, toffee apple, nearly gone NR - I think I will live longer than this

[Comte Flaneur]

[jckba]

Just another routine Bdx dinner for Ian but more seriously, great notes on a great set of wines.

[Musigny 151]

Wonderful tasting notes; thanks for sharing.

Interesting that the Las Cases shone in a less ripe year. I am not a fan generally in top vintages,where I normally find it where it is part of a horizontal tasting. But get a lesser year, it seems to find its balance.

As you know I love 2014 VCC, and after a brief time in its shell, it seems to be emerging.

The big surprise of the tasting was the Mouton. Last time I tasted it (around three years ago) it still retained that coffee element from over burnt barrels, which dominated any fruit.

[jal]

Thank you for posting these wonderful notes Ian, your palate is impeccable as always. I have had most of these wines at one time or another, some like the 1998 Haut Brion in your company. I cannot find one instance to disagree with you. And thanks for the heads up on the Las Cases
as my bottle has been winking at me seductively for a while now.

[JimHow]

I always love seeing those 2002 left bankers performing well.
Now those are some BWE favorites in that tasting, and they seem to have performed.
We had a 1998 VCC last night here in Quebec City that seemed to be in an absolutely perfect place.

[Nicklasss]

Wonderful precise report Ian.

Many great bottles in these and on the ones i had, must say i well aligned with your nose and palate.

Just one fault, the title of your post: simply too simple ant not grand enough to represent what is in it!

[Comte Flaneur]

Wonderful precise report Ian.

Many great bottles in these and on the ones i had, must say i well aligned with your nose and palate.

Just one fault, the title of your post: simply too simple ant not grand enough to represent what is in it!

I was anxious not to steal your thunder Nic.

Congratulations to you Marie Claude and your kids. So pleased that you tied the knot ….

[Comte Flaneur]

Thank you for posting these wonderful notes Ian, your palate is impeccable as always. I have had most of these wines at one time or another, some like the 1998 Haut Brion in your company. I cannot find one instance to disagree with you. And thanks for the heads up on the Las Cases
as my bottle has been winking at me seductively for a while now.

Jacques I fondly remember that dinner in 2011 with Pierre where we thought the Haut Brion 1998 needed another five years…

[jal]

That was a great evening, the 1996 Margaux, one of my all time favorite wines was also present then. That Haut Brion might need another 15 years,

[DavidG]

Wow, what an outstanding lineup and wonderfully descriptive notes. Thank you for sharing.

I have a question about the relationship between your scores and rankings, Ian. Probably splitting hairs given how outstanding these all were. I’m interested in your thought process. I noticed that you scored the ‘98 Haut Brion and ‘96 La Miss 97 points and ranked them 5th and 6th. You ranked the ‘99 Palmer and Margaux higher, at 3rd and 4th, but gave them lower scores, 95 and 96. I thought maybe the scores are for how they’re drinking now, and rankings are for potential? That would fit with your “97 now, higher later” comment for the Haut Brion.

[Comte Flaneur]

Wow, what an outstanding lineup and wonderfully descriptive notes. Thank you for sharing.

I have a question about the relationship between your scores and rankings, Ian. Probably splitting hairs given how outstanding these all were. I’m interested in your thought process. I noticed that you scored the ‘98 Haut Brion and ‘96 La Miss 97 points and ranked them 5th and 6th. You ranked the ‘99 Palmer and Margaux higher, at 3rd and 4th, but gave them lower scores, 95 and 96. I thought maybe the scores are for how they’re drinking now, and rankings are for potential? That would fit with your “97 now, higher later” comment for the Haut Brion.

Well spotted eagle-eyed Dr Glasser, there was a typo in the original table - this is how it should be:

[AKR]

How do people obtain Ygrec? Is it for chateau visitors, or some other process (reward for distributors etc.)?

I remember a lifetime ago that Mike Jessen - president of Zachys auctions - told me he only tripped over it when inspecting collections.

And of course, very thoughtful comments on the wines.

[jckba]

How do people obtain Ygrec? Is it for chateau visitors, or some other process (reward for distributors etc.)?

I remember a lifetime ago that Mike Jessen - president of Zachys auctions - told me he only tripped over it when inspecting collections.

And of course, very thoughtful comments on the wines.

I own several bottles of the 2015 Ygrec and bought those at retail and at a significant discount. When checking the NJ wholesale channels, I see 4 distributors as currently having stock of varying vintages 2016-2020 so as far as I can tell despite an annual production of 10,000 btls, there is no special process.

[stefan]

Ian, I think you have more "dinners of a lifetime" in a month than I have had in my life. 1996 Ducru coming in last among three 96s says a lot.

Thanks for the (usual) great write-up.

[DavidG]

Thanks Ian, don’t want to see my beloved Haut Brion demoted LOL.

I’ll second stefan’s comment: a month of Comte Flaneur dinners is beyond my wildest dreams.

[AKR]

How do people obtain Ygrec? Is it for chateau visitors, or some other process (reward for distributors etc.)?

I remember a lifetime ago that Mike Jessen - president of Zachys auctions - told me he only tripped over it when inspecting collections.

And of course, very thoughtful comments on the wines.

I own several bottles of the 2015 Ygrec and bought those at retail and at a significant discount. When checking the NJ wholesale channels, I see 4 distributors as currently having stock of varying vintages 2016-2020 so as far as I can tell despite an annual production of 10,000 btls, there is no special process.

Interesting maybe my information is very stale

[Antoine]

Some superb wines Ian! And superb writing! Much beyond my abilities but I really relate to your feedback.
Really very grateful as I never got such an opportunity to compare Bordeaux at the highest level (except samples at en primeur...)
Not willing to compare apples and pears, I chose 1 wine per flight as my preferred one and then tried to rank them. I confess I was a pleasantly surprised with the typicity per appellation.
While wines like Issan and Gruaud were left a bit behind in this type of tasting, it appears to me that this tasting also proved the law of diminishing return with regard to pleasure to price relationship.
All the wines would be a pleasure to drink any day.
Ref Noize, I am less enthusiastic than others about the food but the team are very nice people and the sommelier knows his trade (also agree wines temperatures were not ideal)