Book Review: Bordeaux (David Peppercorn, 2nd Edition, 1991)

[AKR]

Book Review:
Bordeaux
Written by David Peppercorn
Edited by Julian Jeffs
Maps by John Flower
1991 publication, 722 pgs

This is an older reference book on the history and wines of Bordeaux. The author is English and has been involved in the fine wine trade in a variety of capacities for a long time, and is also married to a prominent auctioneer, Serena Sutcliffe. (She is also a published wine journalist as well, but I don't find her prose to be as captivating.) Despite the age of the book, enthusiasts for the region might consider picking up a copy for the reference shelf since some of the information is unique, and 'non indexed' in Google speak, while paperback copies are cheap.

The Faber wine books from the 90's were a collection sharing a common editor, with regional experts penning each volume. They were well scrubbed, and one rarely sees the glaring errors that seem to plague many modern wine books that feel like they were proofread by those with limited vinous knowledge. The black & white maps and illustrations are scant, but generally well done, often including minor estates that might not get denoted in other Atlas's.

The book has a conventional format for a wine book with the first sections of some 50+ pages covering history, methods and the classification before breaking into regional/appellation chapters, with individual estate discussion.

What is interesting about the estates section is how much discussion there is of commercial aspects, which provides a dimension that more consumer oriented writers usually don't touch upon. For example for many estates there can be coverage of non estate bottling, which was done by some importers for some portion of production, up until the early 1970s. That is a topic that is hard to find any information about, even if it may not be relevant to anyone but collectors of very old bottlings. For a few properties, the author might note that British shippers bottlings might preferred to the chateaux own efforts, given that the importer might simply be more skilled at that as they were doing it frequently rather than just once a year.

There is also plenty of discussion of all the ownership/vineyard machinations over the centuries, which can be tortuous and worthy of a Falcon Crest soap opera series for some properties. Some properties are now defunct, in the decades since this was written, but bottles turn up now and then, and this can be a helpful reference. There doesn't seem to be any discussion of long defunct brands, on a stand alone basis, other than if they were absorbed into an existing estate. For example parts of Ch. Dauzac were called 'Labarde' in prior centuries, so that name has been retained for a 2nd wine, at least as of the books publication. As one pores through this 700+ page tome, there is all kinds of curious details like that buried in most estate descriptions.

Peppercorn has participated in many verticals, which are sometimes lightly included in the notes, but like other authors of his era & style, I don't find the comments helpful. Tasting notes are often in the vein of 'most attractive', 'honorable', 'supple', 'liquorous' and so on. And comments on a Medoc from the 1930s, tasted in the 1950's, and then published in the 1990's are no longer germane in any case, no matter how specific (or vague) the descriptors might have even been.

In the US, we see little of the co-op and generic AOC grade wines, but there is coverage of those, which is somewhat differentiated. Perhaps that makes sense from an English merchant's perspective, who would be shipping those for a short distance, and would have customers who were accustomed to those. When I mentioned that business aspects are discussed, it's of interest on the right bank in particular. For several Libournais, there is commentary on how most of the wine is sold into Belgium, or Switzerland or where ever, with an explanation like the owners daughter might have married into a family of hypermarche. Or how some chateaux do not participate in La Place, the system where high profile properties can distribute their wares globally, quickly and efficiently. This background explains why some wines were difficult to find stateside, or why one could historically only buy them at select direct importers.

Overall, it's a good book, and recommended for those with a historical interest in the regions' wines, but it's slow reading. I started this during the early part of the winter, and would chew through a few pages covering a couple estates, several nights each week...and I just finished a week ago. This 2nd edition is out of print but second hand copies are readily available on eBay or Amazon for less than $10. If one buys references, this is worth the time and money. I’d give this an **A** in my scorecard. A lot of the background information is still relevant and fascinating, and sadly it looks like it was never updated, although there is certainly no shortage of books on this area.

https://www.amazon.com/Bordeaux-Classic ... 8&qid=&sr=
That is NOT an affiliate link. Xposted at WB too.

[Musigny 151]

This was one of my reference books, and I still use it for a historical perspective although it is now thirty years plus old.
His tasting notes are also dated, but they have the virtue of coming from a classical palate.

For more up to date reading and also some brilliant research may I recommend Stephen Brook’s fourth edition of his Bordeaux book. Not only is it one of the best written books on Bordeaux, but it is filled with fascinating insights into the place. There are useful tasting notes, sly humor, and some glorious photographs.

It is huge, heavy and my cat is addicted to pulling at the black ribbon page marker that are sometimes added to large English printed books.

[greatbxfreak]

I have both books. Great reading.

The book I have - Stephen Brook's "Bordeaux - people, power and politics" is a hardback edition published in 2001.

[Musigny 151]

The fourth edition came out in October 2022.

[AKR]

I've got most of the Brook's Bordeaux book's except his 3rd edition (which I read, but had difficulty finding at a fair price stateside). He is indeed a fine writer.

[Musigny 151]

I bought it at the same time as the new Bordeaux Neal Martin book. Definitely not a fan.

[greatbxfreak]

I didn't buy Neal Martin's recent Bordeaux book.

Having purchased Jane Anson's fabulous "Inside Bordeaux" book, which is extremely easy to read and has some beautiful maps, I feel I am fully covered with Bordeaux books.

I wasted my money on buying Burgundy by Jasper Morris, the latest edition, which omits many lesser-known growers and totally omits Beaujolais best growers. Very disappointing book imho.

[AlexR]

Hi,

Peppercorn's book actually dates from 1981, but an updated edition was later published.

It's a good book, with the classic shortcoming of focusing on the great growths.

There are few errors, just one that makes me smile: he refers to Place de la Bourse in Bordeaux as Place Royale - which it hasn't been called since... the French Revolution.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[AKR]

I read the 2nd edition, from 1991.

[tim]

I bought Neal Martin's book, mostly because it is so difficult to find information on older vintages. He does a good job of describing the conditions of various vintages. However I was surprised at how few tasting notes he has for older wines. That would have added additional depth to the work.