38 Sauternes

[AlexR]

I was invited to a Sauternes tasting on Friday night at Millésima, one of the largest purchasers of great growths in Bordeaux: http://www.millesima.fr/

Most of the first growths were there, represented by their owners or managers, and it was a very fine tasting indeed, conducted professionally for a clientele of serious wine buyers and members of the wine trade. Millésima usually sell only by the case (other than in their boutiques in Bordeaux, New York, and the Côte d'Azur), however, they made an exception this evening.

I know what some of you are thinking: you could never, ever, in a million years taste 38 Sauternes. And yet… Having done it, I enjoyed it immensely and don't think my palate fatigue was any worse at then end than it would have been for 38 red wines at the en primeur tastings!

Sauternes (by which I mean both Sauternes and Barsac) has to be one of the most misunderstood wines of France. The French tend to drink it younger than les Anglo-Saxons, and as an aperitif or with food such as foie gras, sweetbreads, fish in a sauce, etc. English speakers tend to enjoy it with dessert, a sure sign of their irremediable barbarity as seen from Gaul…

The Millésima cellars are vast, and each château had a long table with plenty of space.

Here are thumbnail, subjective appreciations of the wines I tasted:

Ch. la Tour Blanche:
I tasted the 03 and 06. Their price is neck and neck, but I preferred the 2003, and not, I don't think, just because it was that little bit older. La Tour Blanche has gone from strength to strength in recent vintages, and well and truly deserves its classification. Madame Corinne Reulet, principal of the lycée viticole and director of the wine estate, does good work. She said that the 2009 crop has been absolutely fantastic, both in terms of quality and quantity, with the highest yields the château had ever known: 22 hl/ha (legal limit is 25). This helps make up for the 2008 vintage when, due to hail, they had… 15% of a normal crop.

Ch. Rayne Vigneau
I tasted the 05, 03 and 96 vintages.
The 05 was not showing particularly well at this time, with a whiff of something chemical on the nose. It was big, but disjointed on the palate. The 03 was better but, as rich, sweet, and fruity as it was, the wine did not have the hallmarks I look for in a Sauternes. The 96 was also well-made and fruity, but did not have the depth and, once again, they typicity I had hoped to find. Rayne Vigneau has a fantastic terroir. I keep hoping they'll reach the heights one day…

Ch. Suduirat
Two wines on show here. Both were served from decanters.
The 06 was one of the best I tasted all evening. The bouquet was closed-in, but subtle and very promising. Heavy mouth feel on the palate. Plenty of power, concentration and fruit. Glorious wine.
The 88 was, to my mind, more of a novelty than anything else. It looked younger than its 21 years and had a nose of lemon, wax, and furniture varnish along with something old and indeterminate. Much of the sugar had been "absorbed" by this time, making the wine seem more off-dry than sweet.
I learned that Suduiraut now make a dry white wine called, unsurprisingly, le "S" de Suduiraut.

Ch. Guiraud.
This was one of the two big disappointments of the evening for me. I've enjoyed many a good bottle of Guiraud in the past, and certainly considered it as one of the benchmarks for the appellation. However, the 06, 02, and 96 vintages I tasted unfortunately failed to live up to my expectations. The 06 was certainly "ok" but lacked focus and personality. The 02 was the best of the lot, but was lacking aromatics (could it have been served too cold?). The 96 looked youthful but had a worrying nose of saccharine and made me wonder if there weren't some volatile acidity there.
The Peugeot, von Neipperg and Bernard families will surely set Guiraud on the right path in short order.

Ch. de Fargues
This was the 38th wine tasted and I know the estate well, so I didn't taste all 3 vintages on offer, just the 96. This confirmed that Fargues is of first growth standing, even if it isn't classified at all!

Ch. Liot
This Barsac was the estate I tasted. They were showing two great vintages, 03 and 01. I consider this the fresh, fruit-forward kind of Sauternes that is ideal as an aperitif. We are far from the thick, powerful, luscious kind of Sauternes, but that is just as well! Vive la diversité !
The 2003 was a more "serious" wine even so, with better length and a fine vanilla/almond flavor.

Lafaurie-Peyraguey
I sampled the 05, 02, and 03 vintages and came away with the impression that this is surely one of the best wines in Sauternes. The 02 was particularly good, and I'm always delighted when wines are this successful in vintages that don't have great press. The 05 was really, really sweet, making you think of the word "sticky". Heavy and "spherical" on the palate, seems almost too big at present. It will be very interesting to taste it with bottle age. The 2003 is also thickish and serious, but seemed better-balanced this evening.
This is a great estate for people who like rich, aromatic Sauternes with a silky texture and a long aftertaste.

Clos Haut Peyraguey
This wine, like let's say like Léoville Barton and (now) Gazin, is one that the Bordelais think is excellent and undervalued. I tasted it immediately after its neighbor, Lafaurie Peyraguey, and both the 06 and 05 vintages came off as being less rich, but more tight and arguably more powerful than LF. I preferred the 05, which does that lovely double-take Sauternes is so good at: sweetness going into long mineral bitterness on the finish to create a fascinating harmony.
CHP costs 20% less that LF, and is a very different style (in a word, more acidity) and is an interesting wine to get to know.

Doisy Védrines
I tasted the 03, 02, 98 and 90 vintages of this 2nd growth Barsac. I won't reproduce all my notes except to say that this wine consistently showed well (including the 2002) and had the typical Barsac acidity and purity. Very dependable if unexciting. The 90 was past its best, in my opinion, with a bouquet like a Tokay and a long, drying-out aftertaste – the sort of wine you might want to sip after a meal.

Myrat
Along with Guiraud, this was the other disappointment of the evening, I'm sad to say. I approve entirely of the de Pontac family's (yes, those de Pontacs) efforts to resuscitate this second growth that had ceased to exist. But the 02, 01, and 96 vintages I tasted all had something off in the bouquet. Fortunately, the 02 and especially the 01 retrieved themselves somewhat on the palate. This estate strikes me as more the equivalent of a cru bourgeois than a great growth.

Coutet
They were showing the 06, 04 , and 989 vintages. I was enthusiastic about the 04, a vintage practically no one else was pouring that evening, and think this is good value for money. The bouquet was delicate with hints of resin and the wine was very mouth-filling and long on the palate. I was only slightly less enthusiastic about the 2006. The 1998 was not quite in the same league.

Rabaud Promis
I far preferred the 03 to the 01 and 97 on show. The latter two struck me as a decent enough wines, but not among the best of the first growths. The 97 had rather too much acidity.

Rieussec
I was relieved that this wine lived up to its reputation. I very much enjoyed the 04 (the bouquet was not together yet, but the wine is tremendously well-focused with good weight, fruit, and a mineral aftertaste on the palate). The 1997 was one of the best wines tasted all evening. Tremendous balance and luscious flavour. A winner!

Climens
Climens enjoys a special status, kind of like Léoville Las Cases, and I was anxious to try their 2000. This still had greenish tinges and an attractive, but somewhat elusive bouquet (needs time!). Interesting balance on the palate: both soft and enveloping, and showing fresh acidity. Good length. A class act. The 1998 was not in the same league, however.

Yquem
Pierre Lurton and Sandrine Garbay were pouring. The 05 Yquem was the top wine of the evening for me, reminding me of the 1975's "iron fist in a velvet glove" style. Superb botrytized fruit, loads of power, and a beautiful, well-controlled oak influence. A superb wine to bequeath to your grandchildren! The 2002 (less than a third the price), tasted just after, was – in the context! – disappointing. However, the 1998 was a wonderful surprise and very fine indeed.

That's all folks!
We went out afterward and had a mammoth rib of beef with a mountain of French fries accompanied by… a Chilean cabernet from Montes!

Best regards,
Alex R.

[stefan]

Great report, Alex.

I am surprised that the 2000 Climens was better than the 1998.

I agree that de Fargues merits first growth status.

stefan

[Blanquito]

Thanks for the notes. Great stuff, and I can imagine nurses stations mixed in where insulin injections are administered to revive those with a surfeit of blood sugar.

I'm glad to hear about the Suduiraut 2006. I love that estate's style and I just bought some 2006 without tasting.

Cheers, Alex!

[Nicklasss]

Thanks for reporting Alex. Instructuve as always.

I have some 03 tour Blanche so from your comemnts, I'M happy. Unfortunately, I open rarely Sauternes. It is MC's favorite wines but we finished our dinner too late (everybody too tired for more wine) or after eating a big dinner, nobody want more...

The thing is that we should buy more Sauternes, especially me as I just have to plan to drink them with Simone in 20 years.

I agree with you that Fargues is great. i have some 1997 rieussec too. But maybe I should buy more. Still available here, at a not so great price.


And last question : how did you feel after tasted 38 Sauternes? Seem to me weird.
Nic

[AlexR]

Nic,

>>> how did you feel after tasted 38 Sauternes? Seem to me weird.

It's true that tasting that many wines requires a lot of concentration, tires you out a bit, and also makes you damned hungry!

However I (mostly) spat. Strange to say, the sugar did not realy saturate the palate that much.
In fact, it would have been harder to taste as many young red wines IMHO.

All the best,
Alex

[Rick]

Alex - very nice notes....that I can use when i need to decide which sauternes to pull out

Decanting Sauterenes - tell me more..........I have never done that ...should I and when do you decant a sauternes and for how long.........I like sauternes cold so it seem as if that would be a consideration


Nic - I have the solution for your it is late and you do not want to open a sauternes.....well actually I have two ideas
1> start earlier :)
2> I have been know to open a sauternes first especially a very good one because it is so wonderful and special. Have a glass with an initial course hot lobster/crab with warm butter or of course Foie Gras
Then you can come back to the sauterenes for dessert

Rick

[Jay Winton]

Liot is my favorite QPR sauternes. The 01 and 05 are both quite good, IMO. I love Sauternes. I recently had the 05 Guiraud which was so young is was almost hard to judge but its performance on the 3rd day showed its promise which will require serious patience to be fulfilled. I can still taste the 95 Yquem our BD opened the first night of our Maine adventure; somehow the bottle ended up in front of me.

[DavidG]

Great report, Alex, I am jealous! When I first opened this thread, I thought you were going to tell us about a 1938 Sauternes that you drank, but I was even more excited to see this much more comprehensive report.

BTW, I think the French have it right that Sauternes is best enjoyed early in a meal. Or perhaps as dessert, but not with dessert.

My personal ranking of Sauternes/Barsac, if I may be so presumptuous:

First
Yquem

Second
Cllimens
de Fargues

Third
Rieussec
Coutet
Lafaurie-Peyrauguey

Fourth
Lots in this category

[sdr]

Outstanding and interesting notes, Alex.

I, like Nic, have difficulty finding the right occasion to open Sauternes/Barsac. When going out for dinner with four people, especially if one or more are light drinkers, I find four bottles of table wine all we can handle (especially the next morning). I must find a way to incorporate it earlier in the meal as you suggest.

David's hierarchy is interesting. I agree that Climens and de Fargues deserve a rank just below Yquem. I imagine many people would also add Rieussec as a second growth as well.

~stuart

[RDD]

Alex:
Are there any common denominators among producers?
Or is each house doing their own thing?

[AlexR]

Common denominator?
Sure! There's a type of botrytized Sémillon grape flavor that only comes from that terroir.

A few - very few - of the wines seemed to have an international style, or resemble anything other than Sauternes.

Stuart,

I hear you. The Sauternes producers have a hard time explaining when and how to enjoy their wines, even among fans!
I can understand because I'm a little that way with Alsace wines. I like them, have them in my cellar, but for some reason rarely go down and grab a bottle.

But, to answer your question, Sauternes is honestly a lot more versatile than many people think.
AND it keeps VERY well.
So if you open a bottle and have only half it, it should be fine condition over the next several days, or even more!

When I have leftover Sauternes, it usually doesn't hang around too long!

All the best,
Alex

[RDD]

Common denominator?
Sure! There's a type of botrytized Sémillon grape flavor that only comes from that terroir.

A few - very few - of the wines seemed to have an international style, or resemble anything other than Sauternes.

I see.
Like all German TBA's use Reisling..............

[stefan]

Well, actually there are German TBAs made from the Sylvaner grape.

stefan

[Comte Flaneur]

Mouthwatering stuff Alex...must seek out some 03 La Tour Blanche (possibly my favourite estate after you know what)...even though I can count the number of times I drink sauternes in a year on the fingers of one hand...wonder why people like us (on the board - I am sure you drink more of it Alex) drink so little Sauternes/Barsac...it is so good and comparatively cheap?

[DavidG]

Stuart, you wouldn't have to twist my arm too hard to get me to move Rieussec into the group with Climens and de Fargues.

[RDD]

Well, actually there are German TBAs made from the Sylvaner grape.

stefan

Or Rieslaner or Scheurebe.

My question wasn't phrased very well as the coffee hadn't kicked in.
But I think the answer is there are as many different styled Sauternes as producers.

I'm like others. I like it but wish I knew more ways to enjoy it.
I've heard to have it with foie gras. Or with a blue cheese.
Would like to know other ways to serve.

As a solitary desert wine I would much rather have a German BA/TBA etc.

[AlexR]

RDD,

Simply as an aperitif, Sauternes is great.
I know, I know, we've been told that something really dry like brut Champagne or fino Sherry is best.
Still, please give Sauternes a test drive some time!
For a fancy meal, you can serve this before-dinner drink with small toasts or canapés with crab, tapenade, pâté, etc. on them.

At table, Sauternes does very well with vol au vent, veal sweetbreads, shellfish (espeically lobster), any white fish in a sauce, white meats...

Furthermore, the transition from Sauternes to any other wine is hardly a big drama. A sip or two of water and rinsing your glass or changing glasses is all it takes.

I'll admit: it is pretty rare for me to have Sauternes with a main course, and I *have* served it with dessert. As for the latter
a) this is always light and not too sweeet
b) this is usually to finish the bottle opened for the aperitif

All the best,
Alex

[JimHow]

One of my best experiences with Sauternes was later in the evening during the recent BWE gathering at Boothbay Harbor, Maine. We quickly drank up half bottles of '03 Lafaurie Peyraguey, '99 Rieussec, and '05 d'Arche.

I know you oppose vintage generalizations, Alex, but what are considered to be the better years for Sauternes in the past decade?

[RDD]

Thanks Alex.
You helped.

[AlainB.]

Great report, Alex!

I can testify on a few wines.. 2002 and 2005 Lafaurie-Peyraguey. I had the opportunity to taste these two earlier this year as I visited the estate.

Clos Haut Peyraguey is one of my favourites growths. And it's so obviously undervalued!

Suduiraut is running on all cylinders since 2001..

Sorry that Guiraud and Climens didn't show that well

[Rick]

Alex or anyone
any words of wisdom on decanting sauternes?


Try suaternes with crab or lobster(dipped in warm butter) at beginning of meal as a starter.........it will get you off to a great evening

Rick

[JimHow]

It went very well with lobster rolls in Maine.

[Rick]

Jim

you and i might just drink good sauterne with anything...especially by itself


I sure wish you had me buy 12 or the 95 Yquem instead of 6 ...think I have only 2 left

[JimHow]

Yeah, that's the last time in our lives we'll see d'Yquem at that price, Rick. I have one 750 left of the 1995, two half bottles of the 2002, and one half bottle each of the 1997 and 1995.

[Tom In DC]

Sauternes and lobster is a decadent treat indeed. My introduction to d'Yquem was with just that match...addiction ensued.

[Rick]

Tom I am sure it did

Jim
for me I have .......not nearly enough Y Quem
3 375s of 1990
1 750 of 2001
2 or 3 750s 0f 1995

When the markey crashed hard w/in the the next yr we will be able to buy some Y Quem at good prices

Chris Loxton tonight told me it just was not fair to drink his Late Harvest Viognine (sp?) with the 95 Y quem

while it the Y Quem was in a class by itself his dessert wine did it self nicely that evening


rick

[AlexR]

RDD,

Could you please tell me your first name so I don't address you by your initials?

Rick,

Personally, I don't think I'd ever decant a Sauternes, but the old Suduiraut I tasted probably benefited from it.
Although I rarely drink Sauternes that old, I'm nevertheless tempted to try it the next time.
I know that some producers in Burgundy decant their white wines... Do any of you?

Jim,

This has been a golden age for Sauternes (no pun intended).
Everyone marvels at the 1988/89/90 trilogy. I asked one of the château owners on Thursday which he thought was best and he replied 1989.
Then you get years like 1997 and 2007 that were pretty dicey for red wines, but make really good white wines (both sweet and dry).
2001 and 2003 were both great years. The latter is top-heavy and exotic in many instances, but can be utterly delicious too.
2002 is a *much* better year than some claim. I've had many positive experiences here. If you found a name wine from that vintage at an attractive price, I'd go for it!
2005 and 2009 are both vintages that are as good in Sauternes as they are in the red wine regions IMHO.

Best regards,
Alex

[stefan]

I agree, Alex, (except about '05 & '09, with which I have no experience). Some very good Sauternes was also produced in 1996, and the early drinking 1998s were mostly good. 1999 is another year I like, although I bought selectively.

Jim & Rick, I am also in need of an Yquem sugar daddy as I have only one 1995, two 1998, and 4 half bottles of 1999.

stefan

[RDD]

RDD,

Could you please tell me your first name so I don't address you by your initials?


Best regards,
Alex

Rob, Alex.
We've broken bread a few times...........

[AlexR]

Thanks Rob. Now that I know you're Rob, of course I know who you are!

Alex

[Rick]

stefan

between up we hardly have enough for a party.....a Y"quem mama is called for

[sdr]

Do I see a consensus building for a Sauternes tasting at BWE Chicago 2010?

~Stuart

[Rick]

stuart - that would be a first for me........will give many of the ladies something to get into I suspect

I am game to plan with you on my home turf

rick

[AKR]

Mouthwatering stuff Alex...must seek out some 03 La Tour Blanche (possibly my favourite estate after you know what)...even though I can count the number of times I drink sauternes in a year on the fingers of one hand...wonder why people like us (on the board - I am sure you drink more of it Alex) drink so little Sauternes/Barsac...it is so good and comparatively cheap?

We had a couple glasses of the 03 La Tour Blanche last night, probably a shade too warm. It's a very good LTB but in a different style than other years. Thick, gooey, and honeyed. I still get the cardamon and sandalwood notes I remember from the last time we had it the fall.

I like opening Sauternes on Fridays when we are not traveling. Generally they will keep well enough in fridge so that we can finish them by Sunday night.

[JimHow]

I like my Sauternes, like my Champagne, as cold as possible.

[Nicklasss]

The 2003 Chateau La Tour Blanche will make an appearance at 2018 BWE convention.

Nic