TN: Two from Marc Ollivier

[chris kissack]

Marc Ollivier is one of the Loire's greatest winemakers that I have never met, despite walking past his stand several times at the Salon in Angers earlier this year, and repeatedly catching sight of him pouring his wines for numerous happy tasters. Perhaps those people were just in possession of better time-management skills, for although I made a mental note to visit his stand and taste, in the end I just ran out of time.

So this year I have been making up for this shortfall by drinking some of his wines at home, such as the 2005 Granite de Clisson and 1992 Clos des Briords. Here are two more, both from the 2007 vintage:

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur lie 2007: A synthetic closure here. A pale hue, but a bright and aromatic nose, with nuances of lemon and salt-rubbed thyme. Fresh and a little minerally I think. Well defined on entry, crisp, lean but fleshing out very nicely in the palate, brisk and bright, but also flavoursome and textured. Notes of greengage and yellow plum over the delicious acidity. Good clean, sappy and juicy finish. This is an appealing wine. 16/20

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur lie Clos des Briords 2007: A lovely nose, creamed thyme, liquid rocks, soapstone and pumice, topped off with notes of yellow pepper and yellow plum skin. Remarkable minerality! Fleshy but sappy, well defined, full of very tangible substance, broad and very mouth-filling, with all that yellow fruit coming through onto the palate too. Great style, purity and rich, fresh depth. Very fine indeed, delicious now, but a wine that will also repay keeping. 18+/20