01 Charvin, 85 La Mission, 77 Taylor's

[AlexR]

Hi,

Six friends came over to dinner last night, so I was not at my leisure to take any detailed notes…

For the aperitif, we had:
- Lustau Almacenista Oloroso (Angel Zamorano): dark, nutty, fresh, aromatic and seemed mostly dry to me. The French generally do not like Sherry, but my guests enthused about this, also considering it terribly exotic…
- 2001 Domaine de Carbonnieu, Sauternes: this is a sleeper, a little-known wine from the wrong side of the tracks that is tremendous value for money. This was my last of six bottles. It was showing signs of premature maturity, especially in terms of appearance, but was still complex and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste displaying that touch of bitterness that I always like to counterbalance the sweetness.

With fish soup we had:
2007 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay (South Africa). This didn't make much of an impression other than the attractive packaging! The tropical fruit aspects were very much under control and the wine was neither overoaked nor too alcoholic. However, it lacked personality and showed a harsh acidity. That having been said, I retasted the wine the next morning and came away with a better impression, and found it to be much changed and more "Burgundian" in character.

With roast beef:
2001 Domaine Charvin, Châteauneuf du Pape. Alain Bringolf in Switzerland called up in the afternoon and mentioned that he had had this same wine not long ago, and found it closed-in and not very forthcoming. I had tried it a year and half ago with Harry Karis and found it very elegant and smooth, which is why I wanted to serve it blind. In light of my friend's comment, I decanted the wine 6 hours before serving it, which seemed to help. While it's true that the nose was not overly expressive, the wine was as I remembered it on the palate. Not any brooding monster this CdP, which could nevertheless used a few more years in bottle to show its best. As for the guessing game, my guests only suggested the Rhône Valley after several tries. This confirms my impression that Charvin is not necessarily typical of its appellation (not that this should be interpreted as a criticism!).

With cheese:
2005 La Mission Haut Brion: I was fortunate to have half a case of this and have followed it through the years. Some of the bottles had a bretty nose, but not this one. The color was just about as it should be and the bouquet was wonderful: tobacco leaves, earth, pencil shavings… Very fine indeed. Also classic and well-balanced on the palate with a long aftertaste that is just starting to dry out. At this stage the wine is, in my opinion, slightly past its best, although it will go on for years.

With dessert (baked stuffed apples)!
1977 Taylor's: God, these wines must be built for eternity! At the age of 33, this it was still vigorous and even still had a spirity side to it. Ripe, satisfying, and a very nice way to end the meal although I'm left wondering it such wines represent good value for money (compared to other Ports, that is).

Best regards,
Alex R.

[JEP_62]

Hi Alex,

I had the Hamilton Russell a couple of months ago. I think I liked it a little more than you, but then again, I'm not a huge fan of Chardonnay, especially ones tha show their oak and butter so sytlistically this hit my sweet spot.

Is the vintage right on your La Mish note?

Andy

[AlexR]

Sorry, typo in the body of the text. It was indeed a 1985 La Mission.

Alex