TN: An antidote to depression

[chris kissack]

So Robert Parker's 2009 Bordeaux scores are out. And people have - predictably in some cases - reacted in a variety of different ways. Predictable reaction #1 is "Wow, what amazing scores! What a great vintage - I'm buying!" which is a brave statement to make before you have seen the prices. With that latter point in mind predictable reaction #2 is "Wow, what amazing scores! Prices will rocket - bye-bye, Bordeaux". Every time prices rise, a few more people click into sanity and turn their attention instead to better value regions. But there are always others, more wealthy "collectors" (or, just as likely, trust fund managers) to replace them.

One reaction that I never would have imagined, but which I have seen this year and last, is the "Wow - that means X really nailed the vintage!" where X is the person who posted on the Parker forum (because these people aren't reading anything else) his/her notes but more importantly scores before Parker's were published. They "nailed it" because their scores correlate more closely to Parker's than anyone else's.

This implies that for some people, when they read the opinion of those who have travelled to Bordeaux to taste barrel samples, they aren't looking for independent thought, or original tasting notes, or insight into the vintage; they simply want to know if you get the wines the same way Parker does. So forget diversity of opinion, forget ingenuity of style, forget whether or not you write in serious and academic tones or entertaining comedic, forget trying to enlighten, edify or elucidate. Forget all that, because all they want to know is whether or not you show you possess the universal palate. Basically - can you tell me what Parker's gonna say?

If not, then you got the vintage "wrong". No, it's not that you have different opinions. You are all wrong.

I find that really depressing.

An antidote to depression; maturing Bordeaux away from the hype of 2009 (but tasted in the midst of the primeurs). Two wines from outside the four great Médoc communes, both Haut-Médoc. The first from an over-performing estate in a 'lesser' vintage, the second from a less exalted name but in a great vintage.

Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 1999: Tasted at the domaine over lunch. Good colour, showing some early maturity. The nose is quite supple and composed, showing the scents of iron and maturing fruit, in a very clean and bright style. On the palate, lovely texture, full and fleshy, with gentle tannins still fading and giving a nice supporting layer, and with fresh acidity. Very impressive for the vintage. Very good style. Approachable now but still on the way up for sure. 17+/20

Chateau Belgrave (Haut-Médoc) 2000: Tasted at the Ban du Millésime in Bordeaux. A mature hue, and dark, slightly inky, meaty fruit on the nose. Certainly appealing, with tea leaf aroma. Fresh on the palate, supple fruit, meaty, with some peppery midpalate tannins. Good substance here, and a freshness behind it too. There is still more to come from this wine, although it is approachable now. And it is rather attractive with it. My only issues are that it does seem to lack a good framework in the mouth, seeming rather loose-knit at present. It may come together more with time, but I'm not sure. 16.5+/20

[rjsussex]

Thanks Chris - agree absolutely. Depressing indeed.

(I found Belgrave 2000 very forward and looseknit and drank my cases up some time ago.)

Richard

[JonoB]

Depressing, but Chris your notes are always impressive and a breathe of fresh air; I'm very happy that I have a case of 08 la conseillante after Reading your note on it!

[Houndsong]

Yeah, I think it was Galbraith or somebody in reference to the stock market who said it's less important to know what companies are going to do well than to know what companies the majority of the people think are going to do well. For a twist, I suggest there is a very high correlation between a known reference score of an expert and the score attributed to the same wine by a typical amateur. I think it has something to do with knowing the expert's score in advance of tasting, but it may just be that the expert is "right." I'd be interested to see a controlled experiment and compare the correlation in scores between gorups of amateurs, one being told the reference score in advance, and one not knowing it. I'm always amused when I read a note on cellartracker for instance where the taster with refer to e.g., Sucking's 91 point rating of the wine and say, "I think it's a little high - 90 points."

[stefan]

Nice notes and the Voice of Reason.

[Comte Flaneur]

Yeah agree with all those sentiments - it takes crass to a new level

Cos D'Estournel obviously 'nailed it' in 2009

http://www.farrvintners.com/winelist_ep ... comments=1

Kudos To Neal Martin for showing some independence of mind

[Houndsong]

Don't you think it would be pretty easy for Montrose, Calon, and any number of others also to step up to the 98+ point plateau? There is a lot of terroir available in Bordeaux that will support low yields and late harvests. In fact in drought years some of the land down by the drainages probably would excel. Can they plant Touriga Nacional there or is it prohibited by law? Can the laws be changed?

I say this while sipping (gulping really) a 2004 Faugeres. Very enjoyable. Fairly sweet but good acidity, reasonable oak giving a creamy sensation. Not bad at all. I mean there is a place for this sort of thing.

[JonoB]

Ian,

Tim Atkin wrote a very good report, but he gives Cos 95 whilst saying its not his thing and its not really Bordeaux!
He also says to be careful and that there is a lot of rubbish... his report is free on his website. Not a bad read, and some interesting wines near the top!

I tried the 09 Conseillante again. A bit tougher and harder, more classic but with lovely freshness, not quite as full blown and round; I'm just dreading the prices... and looking forward to the day that my 08 tastes like that 85!!!

I also think that Cissac and Sociando-Mallet might be sleepers although they both seem to need a hell of a long time to come around!!!
Regardless, I think I'll be buying more stuff that is ready to drink this year... life is too depressing when you continuosly drink stuff that is nowhere near ready to drink!