TN: Margaux Twosome

[chris kissack]

Another two wines, this time a Margaux twosome, that came my way over dinner when in Bordeaux recently. Both showed better than expected. In the case of Lascombes, I have had a couple of experiences where young wines from the Capital Colony/Alain Reynaud era (2001 onwards) just seem overladen with oak and have a really soft, loose-knit, unintegrated texture, so it was a pleasure to find this 2006 - although rich in oak-related characteristics - holding it all in rather well. As for Boyd-Cantenac, I think this is only the second vintage from this estate I have ever tasted. It was a decent effort, attractively mature, nothing profound, but with low expectations what I found was certainly quite drinkable.

Chateau Lascombes (Margaux) 2006: This shows very much as you would expect from the modern Lascombes, with a nose dominated by honeyed, spicy oak, but also elements of liquorice and a touch of iron. Big substance on the palate. Attractive fruit although the palate is still very much under the influence of the tannins. Lots of oak here still. A dry structure, very grippy tannins with nice acidity. A firm and upright finish. Showing rather well, and certainly holding together very nicely. I look forward to tasting this again in the context of the vintage at the IMW tasting later this year. 17+/20

Chateau Boyd-Cantenac (Margaux) 1999: Boyd-Cantenac is not a property I am at all familiar with. This maturing example has a good character on the nose refelcting the wine's ten years, with notes of dark but rusty fruit, sprinkled with the aromas of brown tea leaves. It certainly shows signs of maturity. On the palate it is supple, with gently plump fruit. Good substance though, quite full and spicy-peppery, with soft acids but a nice tannic backbone. Lacks some definition but certainly gives some pleasure. Good, and ready now. 15/20

[JimHow]

I had a 2004 Lascombes once in NYC with the Brothers Blanquito and a six-foot model from Seattle, and I think I am still spitting out the splinters. The 2005, on the other hand, was a spectacular wine. 1999 seems to be a strong vintage in Margaux, the Palmer was tremendous that year.

[Houndsong]

The 83 Boyd was really nice a couple of years ago.

[JimHow]

Strong vintages for the Margaux appellation when it seemed to perform better than the rest of the Medoc: 1983 and 1999.

1979 as well?

[Comte Flaneur]

Yes - Margaux and Graves were the strongest appellations in that year imho

I just cleaned Franks out of their remaining 79 Palmer and LTHBs

[JimHow]

Comte, I'm planning a trip to Frank's next week, did you notice whether they still have the 2001 and 2003 Lafaurie Peyraguey in stock as indicated on their website?

[Comte Flaneur]

Well I am going there tomorrow Jim to collect the goods - so I will enquire on your behalf

This is what I snagged

3 x LTHB 79, 1 x Leo Barton 75, 3 x Palmer 79, 2 x Pichon Lalande 75, 3 x P-L 78, 1 x Trot 79
2 x Roumier Chambolle Musigny 04, 3 x Jadot Chambolle Musigny 99, 3 x Jadot Pommard 99 and 4 X Jadot Pommard Epenots 99

The Jadots are great value for money...the two villages are vgi and the Epenots serious stuff fyi