Five Bordeaux wines for dnner

[AlexR]

Yesterday was my birthday:

2005 L'Esquisse de Château Nairac: the sort of Sauternes that is much loved in France. Not heavy, but fruit forward, primary and pure. Like more traditional Sauternes it will age well, but it is perhaps best at this stage IMHO. People offended at the thought of having Sauternes (OK, a Barsac…) as an aperitif should give this a whirl.

2005 Ch. Fieuzal blanc: While not a cru classé like the red wine, this is frequently considered one of the top ten dry white wines of Bordeaux. However, it was very disappointing last night. Professionals are beginning to see that there is a premox problem in Bordeaux too. I think that is what hit here (I recently translated a research paper on the subject. I also learned, by the way, that premox affects red wines as well. They have now discovered the molecule that causes it and have recommended preventive measures).

2005 Ch. Siaurac, Lalande de Pomerol: This was gorgeous 3 years after the vintage, but has gone into an awkward stage, with the plush roundness gone into hiding. I have several other bottles and hope it will come out of its chrysalis.

2005 Ch. Montrose: The last bottle I had of this was clearly tired, but this one was all there, with a delicacy that was more reminiscent of Margaux than St. Estèphe on the palate. Lovely subtle bouquet with graphite overtones showing its more northerly origin. Great purity, lovely resolved tannins, and plenty of class. I think this wine is on the downward slope, but a delight for anyone who loves Médoc.

2007 Ch. de Fargues: A very different animal from the Esquisse. A traditional, more weighty wine that still needs years to show its best. Fargues deserves the increased attention it has been receiving. There was what I can only describe as a tannic quality on the finish that gives this a highly unusual flavor profile.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[Houndsong]

Not 2005, or not Montrose?

[JimHow]

I had the same question. 2005 Montrose tired?

[AlexR]

Sorry, there's a TYPO in there. I meant to write: 1985 Montrose.

Alex

[stefan]

Happy birthday, Alex.

Barsac as an aperitif is great IMO, but, unfortunately, Lucie does not agree.

Is the research paper you translated available to the public?

[AlexR]

Stefan,

In a nutshell, the main culprit in premoxed wines is soloton
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sotolon

Glutathione (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glutathione) provides a natural defence mechanism against the premature ageing of white wines.

Eight measures have proved useful in fighting premox

1- Ensuring that vines are sufficiently vigorous thanks to a nitrogen intake in keeping with their needs – Grapes with plenty of available nitrogen (> 200mg/L) always have a higher concentration of aroma precursors and glutathione, and a lower concentration of phenolic compounds. Excessive yields, drought conditions, competition from grass left to grow between the vine rows and superficial rooting are all factors in weakening vine growth and therefore in promoting premox in white wines.

2- Limiting the extraction of phenolic compounds during pressing to preserve glutathione – The number of times the cake is crumbled must be limited and the selection of juice at the end of pressing very strict.

3- Protecting must and wines efficiently by using inert gas and sulphur dioxide

4- Making sure that alcoholic fermentation takes place relatively quickly and is completely finished – This implies a level of must clarification adapted to the grape variety, a sufficient level of available nitrogen and just the right amount of oxygen during the phase when the yeast multiply.

5- Reducing the time lag before malolactic fermentation – At this stage of winemaking, the wine is no yet protected from oxidation by sulphur dioxide. Stirring lees or inoculating with malolactic bacteria can prove to be effective.

6- Ageing wines in as reductive an environment as possible by maintaining an efficient dose of free SO2, stirring the lees and the moderate use of new oak.

7- Limiting the dissolution of oxygen when preparing the wine for bottling After racking, fining and filtration, the wine is in a fragile state and must be transferred in an inert gas environment.

8- Choosing a closure that is suited to the wine.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[stefan]

Maybe, Alex, but that does not answer the question: why essentially no premox in white Burgs before 1995, and since then the problem is serious and not solved? Soloton is not a new chemical.

I am glad that researchers (who I hope are serious ones) are looking into the premox problem.

[jal]

Allen Meadows, in the last issue of the Burghound, writes a long update on premature oxidation. Apart from blasting everyone in the wine world for not doing enough to protect the consumers, he touches on potential reasons for the phenomenon, including the fact that different bottles from the same case may show different levels of maturity/oxidation, the "no oxidation" prior to 1995, why some but not all producers have been affected, and more. It is definitely worth reading.

[Daytonnc]

Happy Birthday Alex!!!!!!!

[jal]

Silly me, worrying about pre-mox papers when more important things are the issue. Thanks Rob.

Happy Birthday Alex!!!

[DavidG]

Nice celebration - happy birthday!

[Blanquito]

Happy Birthday, Alex. Sounds like a nice set of wines. Was that a Freudian slip on the vintage of Montrose? Modern wines falling apart well before their time? Let's hope not. It's all global warming anyway or maybe owners planting grenache in secret to keep the Parker palate happy.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Alex,
Happy birthday! And great notes, too. BTW, I had the '85 Montrose a few years ago, and it was definitely on the downward slope as you describe. Perhaps not a great year for them.
-Chris

[Nicklasss]

Bon anniversaire Alex. Mes meilleurs voeux pour vous.

Bon compte-rendu.

Nic