Five Bordeaux wines for dnner
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:35 pm
Yesterday was my birthday:
2005 L'Esquisse de Château Nairac: the sort of Sauternes that is much loved in France. Not heavy, but fruit forward, primary and pure. Like more traditional Sauternes it will age well, but it is perhaps best at this stage IMHO. People offended at the thought of having Sauternes (OK, a Barsac…) as an aperitif should give this a whirl.
2005 Ch. Fieuzal blanc: While not a cru classé like the red wine, this is frequently considered one of the top ten dry white wines of Bordeaux. However, it was very disappointing last night. Professionals are beginning to see that there is a premox problem in Bordeaux too. I think that is what hit here (I recently translated a research paper on the subject. I also learned, by the way, that premox affects red wines as well. They have now discovered the molecule that causes it and have recommended preventive measures).
2005 Ch. Siaurac, Lalande de Pomerol: This was gorgeous 3 years after the vintage, but has gone into an awkward stage, with the plush roundness gone into hiding. I have several other bottles and hope it will come out of its chrysalis.
2005 Ch. Montrose: The last bottle I had of this was clearly tired, but this one was all there, with a delicacy that was more reminiscent of Margaux than St. Estèphe on the palate. Lovely subtle bouquet with graphite overtones showing its more northerly origin. Great purity, lovely resolved tannins, and plenty of class. I think this wine is on the downward slope, but a delight for anyone who loves Médoc.
2007 Ch. de Fargues: A very different animal from the Esquisse. A traditional, more weighty wine that still needs years to show its best. Fargues deserves the increased attention it has been receiving. There was what I can only describe as a tannic quality on the finish that gives this a highly unusual flavor profile.
Best regards,
Alex R.
2005 L'Esquisse de Château Nairac: the sort of Sauternes that is much loved in France. Not heavy, but fruit forward, primary and pure. Like more traditional Sauternes it will age well, but it is perhaps best at this stage IMHO. People offended at the thought of having Sauternes (OK, a Barsac…) as an aperitif should give this a whirl.
2005 Ch. Fieuzal blanc: While not a cru classé like the red wine, this is frequently considered one of the top ten dry white wines of Bordeaux. However, it was very disappointing last night. Professionals are beginning to see that there is a premox problem in Bordeaux too. I think that is what hit here (I recently translated a research paper on the subject. I also learned, by the way, that premox affects red wines as well. They have now discovered the molecule that causes it and have recommended preventive measures).
2005 Ch. Siaurac, Lalande de Pomerol: This was gorgeous 3 years after the vintage, but has gone into an awkward stage, with the plush roundness gone into hiding. I have several other bottles and hope it will come out of its chrysalis.
2005 Ch. Montrose: The last bottle I had of this was clearly tired, but this one was all there, with a delicacy that was more reminiscent of Margaux than St. Estèphe on the palate. Lovely subtle bouquet with graphite overtones showing its more northerly origin. Great purity, lovely resolved tannins, and plenty of class. I think this wine is on the downward slope, but a delight for anyone who loves Médoc.
2007 Ch. de Fargues: A very different animal from the Esquisse. A traditional, more weighty wine that still needs years to show its best. Fargues deserves the increased attention it has been receiving. There was what I can only describe as a tannic quality on the finish that gives this a highly unusual flavor profile.
Best regards,
Alex R.