Checking in on the 2000 Grand Corbin Despagne

[Houndsong]

The whole drinking window thing had me thinking I should check in on a couple of 2000s I've not had since release. In case they've gone over the hill already. This wine is more open than I recall very hazily, but it still has near primary flavors, big structure, and a lot of spicy tannin in the finish. A lot of flavor, and medium to full body but no heavyness. I have a glass standing and breathing in the cellar and let's see how it develops. I will now check CT to see if there are any "drink up" or "over the hill" notes. In this case I doubt it. My initial guess is this should turn out well in the next decade of evolution.

[Houndsong]

Right. Virtually every note from the last few years indicates that the wine will benefit from "a couple of more years." I must admit, Parker's note on the 2005 ridiculously stated it smelled or tasted like roast beef drenched in cherries and now I can't get this out of my mind. Maybe this is peculiar to this property.

[Houndsong]

Drank up the bottom half of the bottle (top half is in the freezer) with grilled lamb ribs, grilled onion, and corn on the cob. This wine has got me flummoxed. On the first pour it seemed rather dark and brawny (although not sweet). It opened and softened quite a bit, and for a very broad wine that really reaches throughout the mouth it is very lithe, has plus acidity, and is really, really dry. The bouquet is mild, with some cherrries, some band-aid/Lysol, and some locust flower. The slightly glycerous mouthfeel would suggest more sweetness but this is quite dry. So for all of the youthful characteristics, I wonder what will become of this. After tomorrow night, I'll try another in late 2011.

[Blanquito]

Interesting note, Hound. I think many 2000s are in a weird place right now-- not closed or hard, yet not giving up much.

I had the 2005 of the GCD not long ago, and it was good and young, but it was very already drinkable.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Great note, Hound. What is the general expectancy, history of this estate? Maybe that would suggest something about it's drinking window. I've never really heard of it except from you Colorado guys ;0) and on BWE. Not every wine necessarily improves with long aging. Where do you think it should be at this point?

[Houndsong]

Finished the second half Saturday, Chris. A repeat of Friday, although it stayed in the dark/brawny side through dinner. I would not agree this is a modern-styled wine but it may be that the vintage characteristics account for the aggressive tannin and a seeming alcoholic warmth. It is not overly concentrated and it is not sweet at all. I'll wait a little longer than previously indicated to open another. Hugh Johnson called it "dark, well-made, manly wine." Parker says "muscular, powerful wines that require cellaring."

[Chasse-Spleen]

Sounds good, Hound. I will have to look out for this wine. I really like that style. Looks like the vines there are all 40+ years of age.

[Ramon_NYC]

Thanks for the follow-up on the notes. I actually have a case of this in my offsite storage and I was interested in the "when should I open my bottles" portion.
I actually went through about 3 bottles of these about 2-3 years ago and just couldn't find time to dig out my TNs. But just like you wrote, I do recall the wine not being modern-style and that I remember liking the structure, and being impressed with it as a good quality wine especially for the $12-13 per bottle that I got it for ... imho, another good representative of a very good vintage.

[Blanquito]

Chasse, you like a manly style of wine, do you?

[AKR]

We had a half bottle of the 1998 G-C-D tonite. It's drinking ok, but I wouldn't wait further. Fully mature, lots of interest, but the fruit has receded. Still, very poised and balanced. Good aromatics. A wine for those looking for a well made, but traditional, and less forward St Emilion. The tannins have finally resolved themselves.

[AKR]

In almost a replay of last years note, we had another bottle of the 1998 G-C-D this afternoon. It's a stalwart, still going strong, but all things considered was likely better in that narrow window at age 7ish when her tannin sort of melted and it retained some fruit.

Still, a hold out in a world where so many right bank wines are made to a current recipe card. These folks don't give an inch. It's St Em like from the 80s. Some of you might consider checking them out, if you crave that.

[Blanquito]

In almost a replay of last years note, we had another bottle of the 1998 G-C-D this afternoon. It's a stalwart, still going strong, but all things considered was likely better in that narrow window at age 7ish when her tannin sort of melted and it retained some fruit.

Still, a hold out in a world where so many right bank wines are made to a current recipe card. These folks don't give an inch. It's St Em like from the 80s. Some of you might consider checking them out, if you crave that.

Nice, Arv. And I do crave that!

I need to check, but I think I have some 2005 GCD, but I haven’t tried one. Sounds like now would be a good time.

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

Been a while since I had either the 2000 or the 2005 but say around the 2012 time frame the 05 was way more readier (or let's say approachable) than the 00. (I also liked the 98 but that's all gone--I liked each of these wines and I wonder what more recent good vintages are like.)

[AKR]

I opened a 2000 G-C-D to go with pot roast tonight, and it was lovely. Much more fruity than the last couple of 1998s. Very well balanced. It has really improved with age, as the estate tends to be too firm in its youth, but its drinking great today.

For those with the cellar space and patience, an estate to consider.

[AKR]

I am blown away by how classical the 2000 is today. It's showing a fine violet bouquet with a smooth, balanced texture. This estate has been in the same hands for a couple of centuries, run by the same family for 7 generations, and Francois Despagne makes the wine today. It's a wine for traditionalists, and across the street from BWE favorite Corbin. Stern on release, it develops magnificently with time, but has not yet been graced with traveling consultant stardust. If you like a slug of cab franc - 2000 is about a quarter in the cepage.

For all the haters vexed at corporate ownership, luxury brand positioning, glossy wines and labels, traveling consultants, and internationally styled wines etc. -- set aside $20 + 20 years (correction, set aside $40) and you'll be happily surprised.

The corks are long and the labels endure here, just as the juice inside does. It remains one of the few estates that I am as fond of today as I was upon being introduced to them decades ago. Two of the NYC cadre - DaleW & RamonNYC - were also enthusiasts.

[Blanquito]

Sounds great, Arv. Don’t think I’ve ever tried one. How’s the 05?

[Nicklasss]

Last time i had the 2005, probably in the last 2 years, i thought it was very traditionnal, excellent, and needed 3-5 more years.

Nic

[Blanquito]

Some 05 of the Grand Corbin Despagne for sale:
https://m.klwines.com/Auction/BidDetail/1492258

[AKR]

Some 05 of the Grand Corbin Despagne for sale:
https://m.klwines.com/Auction/BidDetail/1492258

Thanks for pointing out. I think I have a few but not sure. But as one can see, not too many bones for this one at least if these things go for reserve plus something.

[Blanquito]

Yeah, that’s a tempting starting price. That’s less than I paid on release for this wine I think.

[AKR]

Patience can pay off

Reiterating my note from last summer, another bottle of the 2000 Grand Corbin Despagne [St Emilion] the last couple of nights has been terrific! Purchased EP from (now gone) Rochambeu, long natural cork 13% abv, full bodied, 3/4 merlot + 1/4 cab franc, a nose of pipe smoke/tobacco and a palate of currant fruit has emerged with time. I get a twinge of citrus here too. We once had a panel of 98's (I think it was age ten or so?) and a 98 G-C-D was inserted (not by me) in the blind tasting (mostly against much grander wines) and it was voted Most Tannic, a double edged prize. The owners have a history of making wines that can run the distance, and this another great example. These are amazing all things considered, and well worth cellar slots, if one's life situation lets them ignore bottles for a decade or more. Few concessions are made to modern fashions/oenologues here. The garnet color, and rich hue of the rims suggest (to me) that there is another decade of life. In my ledger, an A- now.

US availability is thin today (it seems like distribution has been lost?) and prices (doubled over the decades) are not as favorable as they were a generation ago. K&L Auctions has no results of anything post 2006, suggesting it had a time out in the US market for a while. I have nothing post 2005 and am trying to figure out how to remedy that! Still in a world where "CPI-Lynch Bages" as suggested by the Dept of JimHow Bordeaux Statistics is 8.8% CAGR (1999-2021, using $75 and $481 as starting/ending points) the GCD seems to be an adequate substitute for some BWE consumption baskets!

[Nicklasss]

Nice note Arv,and 20 years seems a good spot in time for that wine.

Last time i had one was the 2005 in 2017, and while quite good, it needed some more years to integrate and show more. I would agree with you on the traditionnal style, as the perception of fruit is not the main aromas/flavor, but complexely integrated in great terroir/ complex oak tones.