A $40 2005 Bordeaux vs. a $40 2005 Burgundy

[JimHow]

Having a small gathering here, have uncorked the 2005 Cantemerle, which I have not yet had, and the 2005 J.M. Boillot Volnay, which I have had several times and enjoyed. Each of these wines was in the upper thirty dollar range in NH last year, I believe, maybe the Cantemerle was a few bucks more.

The 2005 Cantemerle at first blush is very impressive with a powerful cedary nose.

[Comte Flaneur]

My money is on the burgundy...Bordeaux often appears clumsy next to burgundy...I will never forget with Chris CS how a DRC G-E '82 made a Figeac '82 appear wooden

[Blanquito]

Bordeaux often appears clumsy next to burgundy...

Now those are fighting words! I guess I need to drink more Burgundy.

I enjoyed the Cantemerle when I tried it. Good value. But in all fairness to the Cantemerle, it's way too young and cost $27 as futures.

[JimHow]

After a first taste of each wine, my initial impressions are like the Democratic primary between Hillary and Obama: I like 'em both!

[JimHow]

Two tasty wines that represented their respective regions very well. Bravo!

The thing I liked about the '05 Cantemerle was that I would characterize it as traditional rather than modern. It was a gritty Haut Medoc but with no rough edges. I was reading some notes on this wine on cellartracker and several people commented that it was closed up, but I didn't think so at all. The beautiful unmistakeable Bordeaux nose was open right from the start, and it was solid black fruit on the palate.

As for the 2005 J.M. Boillot Volnay, this wine is simply excellent. It is smooth and lush and balanced, with the ripeness that pervades throughout all of these village Burgundies I've been drinking lately. The deep purple color is similar to that of the Cantemerle. I know there is some other Boillot relative or two, but this particular brother did well with his plot of land in '05.

My ratings:

2005 Cantemerle: 90 points
2005 J.M. Boillot Volnay: 90 points

[dstgolf]

I have to agree with Blanquito. The Boillot Burg is drinking much better than the Cantemerle. Certainly the latter I tried six months ago I didn't enjoy but the Boillot was drinking very well. I'd think this should be a hands down win for the dark side. Not saying that I haven't also been turned in 05!

Danny

[JimHow]

I don't know why everyone, both here and on cellartracker, is being so tough on the Cantemerle. I thought it was delicious tonight, again, most importantly, it tasted like "Bordeaux".

[stefan]

I find it very hard to drink young Bordeaux. Young Burgundy, on the other hand, can be very attractive. Every '05 Bdx I have tried forces me to clean my tongue between swallows, but the few '05 Burgs I've drunk have been delightful.

stefan

[Roberto]

The paradox of great red Burgundy is that it does continue to age on balance. It sounds to me like the Boillot won!

Roberto

[JimHow]

Ok, Bob, I'll amend my score to:
Boillot: 90+
Cantemerle: 90
Ah, French wine....
One of the things that makes life worth living.
I do indeed intend to dive hard into Harry's Chateauneuf du Papes, though, he is certainly not the only one (think Robert Parker) out there who obsesses over these wines.
Indeed, I recall sitting next to you, Bob, at Chicago '01, after the '89 Beaucastel had opened up, and you made the comment (paraphrasing): "Now this is my kind of wine!"

[Roberto]

Jim, you have a memory like an elephant!

I think your ammended score accurately reflects the meaning of your notes. I sensed that extra (+) in the Boillot note! Not that the Cantemerle was not equally good.

Yes, French wine is one of life's true pleasures. It is a lifetime passtime. I can't imagine not having the cellar to pull bottles from.

Yes, Jim, I did flip for the '89 Beaucastel. Ben Ferdinand, formerly of the Chicago Wine Company and now a co-worker of Whuzzup____ brought that bottle to BWE1. I remeber when Setab passed me a glass. He had already smelled it and said "this does not smell like Bordeaux". He was right. It had a nutty, earthy quality. It was my wine of the night for BWE1. That bottle was incredible. The irony was that I bought multiple bottles and Mags of that wine and could not reproduce that experience. Was it the magic of the night? An illusion fueled by the formative energy of BWE (you have to admit that night was quite a rush)? I will never know. I gave up on CDP long ago. I just don't get them. Harry, I'm sorry, but I had my night with the CDP and have not been able to find that magic again.

Jim, you brought back a nice memory!

Viva BWE.

Roberto

[Roberto]

Jim, when I reflect on the "Energy" of BWE I can not help but ackowledge what an important force it has been for me. This site is about more than wine - it is about friends. Almost 10 years on I suspect that we will be doing this until our last sip. That is something to celebrate on a Thursday night!

I am bummed that it appears I won't be able to make the '09 convention. I am still trying but it does not look good.

Roberto

[JimHow]

Oh I understand, Bob, it's difficult to get away, although of course we'd love to have you there. Nicolas Maltais himself will be in the building, itself worth the price of admission!
One of my goals for 2009, though, is to drink some good Burgurdy and/or Bordeaux with you in 2009, I may be mistaken, but I think the last time I saw you was when we had that Sunday morning brunch with Dave Beckwith over on the upper East Side. That was a few years ago now.

[Roberto]

Jim, you are correct. I would agree with you that this will be a goal for '09. It would be my pleaure, acutally. Family demands have taken up so much of my time but then again I would really have it no other way. We have to set a date soon.

Roberto

[rjsussex]

Agree with Jim absolutely about the 05 Cantemerle. Posted a note on the board before it moved here, comparing it with the 06. I said something about both wines being traditional to the point of making me feel nostalgic!

Richard

[JimHow]

Richard, I see the 2006 Cantemerle is going for $25 on futures at Zachy's in NYC, which sounds like a reasonable price. Sounds like this gets two thumbs up from you as a case purchase?

[rjsussex]

Go for it, Jim! Side by side, blind, I got the 05 and 06 the wrong way round - not sure if I've ever come across 2 vintages of the same wine tasting (and looking - identical colour) so similar - though as the evening wore on the 05's extra puissance pulled it ahead - but the 06 is that good! (I think RP marked it higher than the 05).

R

[JimHow]

Thank you for the enablement, Richard, I'm going to go for it.