TN: A Saumon Trio

[chris kissack]

Amongst my favourite personal 'discoveries' this year are the wines of Franz Saumon; a favourite because, along with the likes of François Chidaine and Jacky Blot, Franz is another brick in the wall of Montlouis, a wall on which are clearly written the words "I am no longer Vouvray's poor relation". Ignore Montlouis at your peril - there are some really exciting wines coming out of this appellation.

I was to meet Franz at his domaine during the summer but following a storm which damaged some of his vines he was tied up in the vineyard and I couldn't firm up a time and date simply as I couldn't get hold of him. He remains on my 'hit-list' for my next visit to the Loire. In the meantime here are some notes on wines which display his pure and vibrant style; they were tasted in February, hence the reference to bottling in March.

Franz Saumon Montlouis Le Clos du Chêne 2008: A sec style, due to be bottled in March 2010. A fresh and floral nose, clean and delicate and certainly elegant, with nuances of fresh pear fruit and a little creamy edge. The palate is quite fresh, stylish, dry but with good flesh, quite linear, balanced with some vigour. Overall nicely balanced, with lovely style. 16.5+/20

Franz Saumon Montlouis Minérale 2009: This is a demi-sec, rich in aromatic fruit, heady with scents of pear, stylish, youthful with lots of potential. The palate shows some vibrant acidity cutting through a gentle substance, with quite a dry feel despite that demi-sec status. Great flesh, rolling into some beautiful pear fruit in the finish. This lingers very nicely in the end and I think it has really fine potential. 17-18+/20

Franz Saumon Montlouis Minérale 2008: Fresh, restrained, stylish, with delightful floral pear fruit. The palate has a fine structure, a beautifully balanced through the middle, where there is creamy pear, with a fine acidic grip to it too. A wonderful substance, very harmonious but also full and vigorous . Good minerality as well; overall a delicious wine. 17.5+/20

[AlexR]

Chris,

Thanks for the notes.

My (dated) experience with the US market is that Vouvray was easy to find, but Montlouis was very rare, and had little image one way or the other.

I rarely see it in this part of the France either.

So, thanks for telling me about a good producer.

All the best,
Alex

[chris kissack]

I think that is how Montlouis has been seen for many years Alex. But the appellation is slowly being dragged from the mire by a bunch of dedicated producers.