Cantemerle v Durfort 04

[rjsussex]

Well, I bang the drum for 04 and for these two properties often enough but this is the first time I've compared them.

The Durfort was more developed than recent bottles, very Margaux flowers and incense; ripe, ready, succulent and long, a rich mouthful of clean fruit with quite a flamboyant swagger to it.

The Cantemerle was a touch deeper in colour, more reserved on the nose, less lead-pencil than a bottle a week or so ago, minerals and peppery Cabernet (very high proportion in the 04 - more than usual according to their website); this is more subtle and linear in its concentration (in a lean style if that makes sense!), less 'up and down' than the Durfort, over the evening I preferred this for its quiet old-style class. It will last better too.

Another good result for both, particularly for the Cantemerle. Quite a serious and even austere 04 here, the Cabernet very clear. The 05 and 06 have more Merlot and more rich concentration but all 3 vintages are a clear success.

And both these classed-growths were about £15.

Richard

[JonoB]

I like both these estates... I also think the 09 Durfort-Vivens will turn into something very very nice in a similar way... I'm always pleased that HWSRN never seems to like it.

Thanks for the notes, I also liked the 04 Cantemerle, but I have a colleague who thinks that 04s are green and the 'early drinking' (which to some extent I agree with) the good ones need time, is a conspiracy so that people will buy 04s that aren't so good. I don't agree, I think there are some superb 04s.

[JimHow]

The 2004 Pontet Canet, which I like, definitely has a green streak in it.

[JonoB]

A green streak, but not green!

[JimHow]

I would agree with that statement Jono.

[alchemeus]

I've had some very good Cantemerle, don't think I've ever had a Dufort.

Cantemerle can be consistently good, rarely great, if ever. And it usually is very affordable.

[Winesense]

HWSRN had some trouble with Mr. G. Lurton. (Gonzage Lurton is the director of Dufort Vivens).There was some disagreement about was good wine is supposed to be.
I think the Dufort is a very honest, straight forward wine, that does not seek to impress.

[JonoB]

So a beautiful expression of terroir? A was very impressed with the 09 Barrel Sample and will look to get a case or two. I think Mr. Lurton was shocked last April when HWSRN actually turned up and asked to taste the wines, because since about 1982 I think he has refused or generally been refused at the Chateau over what good wine should be.

I adhere to being different, and letting the grapes do the talking whatever region the wine is from and whilst great wines are great, I don't always want impressive... They are impressive, but rarely exciting!!