Champagne best critic

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Nicklasss
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Champagne best critic

Post by Nicklasss »

One thing I learned with people of BWE, at the different conventions, is to like Champagne, and discover how great and complex can be these sparkling wines. Having a sip at a Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill, Dom Pérignon, Krug and Cristal from Roderer, that BWEers brought to conventions, open me eyes on a wine I've never considered seriously before. Now, I like it more and more, don't drink it often, but appreciate it way more than before.

Considering that, I need to ask to our BWEers Champagne specialist, who they would consider as the most serious/strict/fair Champagne critic? Any recommendation of book also, that would cover that AOC seriously and completely?

Thanks.

Nic
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JimHow
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Re: Champagne best critic

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sdr
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DavidG
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by DavidG »

Agree on SDR, but I don't think he's published a book...

There are two Champagne books that I think are far and away the best out there:

Richard Juhlin's 4000 Champagnes (or 5000 Champagnes or whatever the latest edition is up to now
Tom Stevenson's World Encyclopedia of Champagne and Sparkling Wine

Most people like Juhlin's book the best, I lean a bit towards Stevenson's. Juhlin has more up to date tasting notes (though perhaps if Stevenson has published a new edition he may have caught up), but I have a preference for Stevenson's writing style.
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JonoB
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JonoB »

Anything by Tom Stevenson, or random comments by Raymond Tilney on the wine-pages forum...

Galloni has a palate but tends to go for names.

Jancis Robinson likes her Champers, as does Neal Martin.

As do I,

Vilmart, Jacquesson, Philliponat, Selosse being particulat favorites.
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Winona Chief
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by Winona Chief »

I'm a Champagne lover and I can say Champagne is something that takes a lot of time and effort (plus a bit of money). I pay attention to Brad Baker, Neal Martin, Antonio Galloni, Cellartracker notes, Terry Theise (ITB), Dan Kavitz (ITB), Randy McFarlane (local DC Champagne lover) and a host of others including my favorite wine consultants in local DC shops. Like any other wine: listen, taste, think and repeat.

I haven't read any books on Champagne so I can't help you there.

Besides the big names, I like Vilmart, Cedric Bouchard, Bertrand Delespierre, Jean Laurent and Egly-Ouriet.

Chris Bublitz
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Roger Pouillon makes some really superb bubbles at good prices. I'm a champagne nut as well, and regularly go to verticals and OLs where champagne is the main thing.

Russell Faulkner and Mark Palmer also know their champagnes at wine-pages forum. Forgot about the Champagne Warrior (also turns up on wine-pages occasionally, especially when the topic is Champagne).
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Nicklasss
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by Nicklasss »

Thanks gentlemen for all the nice information.

As I consider it an expensive, i need to choose my Champagne even more carefully than other wines.

Nic
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sdr
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by sdr »

Well it's true I am a passionate bubblehead, but far from an expert.
It took me a long time to realize many of them age in very interesting ways. And they don't oxidize!

All good recommendations above, but my favorite champagne critic is Brad Baker, who is to his credit rapidly becoming the Burghound of champagne. No book yet, buy the Internet subscription content is outstanding, very informative and lively.

Stuart
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by sdr »

Now that I know Nicklass is interested, I need to post some of my champagne TNs.

Stuart
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JimHow »

I'm going to ask a real naive champagne question, so don't laugh.

I'm assuming that the Andy Warhol label Dom Perignon is the same wine as the regular label?
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JonoB »

Jim, identical wine.

Judy a way for LVMH to get a few extra bucks per bottle on some of the stock.
The cheapest in the world for it is Heathrow Terminal 5 Duty Free. Selling for about normal bottle pre-release. Of course you can't buy too much. Interestingly there are only three collies globally, but 6 in Japan (I guess it is more of a think to go for a gimmick in Tokyo).
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JimHow
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JimHow »

Thanks for the confirmation, Jono.
The New Hampshire store has hundreds of bottles for $109.
I'm going to buy some and try one on New Year's Eve but in considering it a "must have" wine, how do you address Mr. Vino's concerns about the enormous production of this wine?
I mean, how good can it be if they produce millions of bottles?
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JonoB »

I think that is the beauty of DP... The quality is high and it is very age worthy. The 85 is still a baby.
In many ways, the high production means that you can regularly find bottles with some age.

I think the marketing doesn't help with the image of quality but I don't think it is a huge issue. They've had a high production for a very long time. The other issue is three-fold.

1) it is a very delicate Champagne, unlike Moet... Probably the only house where this is the case so it makes it difficult to look beyond the sulphur and acid in youth, especially when sat next to the more obviously profound Champagnes like Krug, Clos de Goisses, Salon, etc etc.

2) in the past, they have taken forever to age due to the high acids and sulphur in the wines, making them very hard to assess for anything other tha structure when first released.

3) since the 2000 vintage, they have to some extent bowed to pressure to make the wine more approachable when young. This for 2000, which isn't a great vintage is a problem as it lacks the acid and sulphur to really progress. But for a high acid vintage like 2002 is fine, hence the more obvious praise, but has made some shy away from it, in the same way that Krug has been perceived to have got less bready (not true, turnover is higher under LVMH) so you need to age your NV by yourself in bottle at home.

This all adds up to find it hard to enjoy DP now for some who used to... But the quality is there and has been for a long time. Although, of the young vintages my favorite is currently 99 of those drinkable. 2002 seems like a hypothetical blend of the rich open 83 and the rasping long lived youthful 85.
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by Blanquito »

How's the 1988 Pol Roger Winston Churchill drinking?

I have a lone bottle. Was thinking if popping it for my upcoming 40th Bday.
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JonoB
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JonoB »

I had that from Magnum in November 2008... Drinking beautifully then, if not very youthful still.
It will a real treat and one of the best Winston's made in recent history for me. Also a brilliant Champagne vintage... To the point where even the little people have made some brilliant wines as well.
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by stefan »

Patrick, the 1988 Pol Roger Winston Churchill is outstanding. For my taste, it is at its peak.
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by JEP_62 »

I had the 1988 Pol Roger Winston Churchill in April 2008 from magnum and it was drinking great. Just an incredible bottle of wine.

Andy
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Blanquito
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by Blanquito »

The 1992 DP was always excellent, but I tasted it all by 2000.
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Re: Champagne best critic

Post by DavidG »

+4 on '88 PR Sir Winston. Been drinking beautifully for a few years and should continue to do so for many more.
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