1995 Haut Brion and 1995 La Mission

[AlexR]

I was invited out to dinner last night and really spoiled, being able to enjoy and compare side-by-side 1995 Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion at my leisure.

The wines were decanted about an hour and a half before the meal.

How amazing that estates across the road from one another can be so different!

There were 6 of us at table and opinions were evenly devided as to which wine was "better".

What struck me was how ready the wines were to drink. I'm not saying that they were at their absolute peak, but they were clearly well on their way there.

La Mission had deep, earthy, truffle aromas and a textured, almost granular aftertaste. It was very rich and satisfying, with typical Graves aromas/flavors of musk, tobacco, and leather, as well as a mineral quality.

Haut Brion, meanwhile, had more of a cep mushroom nose and a smoother, more seamless taste. It was very sleek and polished, but without quite the vinosity and substance of La Mission. I nevertheless preferred it because of its sheer class.

Seeing as we were still thirsty, a bottle of 1994 Haut Brion was also served afterward. I'd like to say that the prejudice against the vintage was unjustified, but this was not the case. The 94 was more angular, light, fluid, and less deep than the 95, as well as much further along in its development. No point to age any further.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[JonoB]

Interesting re the 94... Yes more angular, but at other estates, I have found 94 to be more akin to 95! Having said that, I have tried the HB from 94 but not 95.

[JimHow]

Alex, do you think the readiness of those wines is a product of the vintage or a product of the winemaking?
I drank my bottles of '95 LMHB about six or seven years ago, I found it a thrilling wine even back then.

[AlexR]

Jim,

I have had the good fortune to go to Lafite twice in the past two weeks (and Latour as well - jeez, I wish I were more disciplined to write up the notes...).

Anyway, we had 95 Lafite at the château and it was close to its plateau as well.

Therefore, I am tempted to think it is a function of the vintage, but my experience would need to be much broader to say that with any certainty.

I have had 25 year-old Bordeaux as tight as a drum (I'm thinking here of 2003 Ch. Margaux), but why *shouldn't* even a first growth be ready to drink after 16 years?
That's an awfully long time for mere mortals....

All the best,
Alex R.

[stefan]

It is surprising to me that these '95 firsts have already hit maturity.

[JonoB]

A horizontal of 95s in London a little while ago, threw up lots of wines that were utterly backward and verging on closed from all banks... Perhaps they have just very recently come out of their shells?

With regards style of LMHB and HB, I felt the same thing with the 2010s this morning... HB more polished and the LMHB more rustique but hard to say that either was better or worse. More a function of preference.

[DavidG]

I have had 25 year-old Bordeaux as tight as a drum (I'm thinking here of 2003 Ch. Margaux)

Umm, typo? 2003 Margaux wont be 25 years old for another 17 years! You are really be living life in the fast lane, Alex! Must be all those visits to the first growths...

[Comte Flaneur]

I remember back more than ten years ago that Jancis R hosted a Haut Brion vertical in London and the wines were served in pairs. The 89 and 90 were served as a pair as were the 95 and 96. I remember being ever so impressed by the latter two...and I thought they ran the former two close. I regret not owning any 95 or 96 HB...but unlike many left banks I don't think either really closed down.

It is interesting how different the HB and the LMHB are, an interesting contrast...not just in 1989 did these excel but in 1985 and 1990 too.

[AlexR]

David,

Yes indeed, I meant to write 1983...

Alex

[DavidG]

Hmm - we had an '83 Margaux at a NYC BWE event organized by Arv, probably 5-10 years ago, and it was drinking pretty well. Not fully mature with all the beautiful complexity one expects to develop, but not tannic and closed.

[sdr]

Hmm - we had an '83 Margaux at a NYC BWE event organized by Arv, probably 5-10 years ago, and it was drinking pretty well. Not fully mature with all the beautiful complexity one expects to develop, but not tannic and closed.

Agree that the '83 Margaux is now fully mature:

March 25, 2011 - It's very good, but still a disappointment compared to the best bottles of '83 Margaux. Color a little advanced with considerable orange at the rim and medium ruby at the center. Pleasant Margaux-typical aroma of violet and blueberry. Medium weight, nice finish. But overwhelmed by the '83 Palmer we had next to it.
90 Points

October 16, 2010 - The star of the vertical lineup of Chateau Margaux, 1990 back to 1961, with all the great vintages on display. This is the best example of the '83 Margaux I have ever had since it's release. Stunning fragrance of violets. Very sweet, pure, elegant, lingering. Indubitably at peak now.
97 Points

Stuart