TN: 1983 Château Gruaud Larose (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien)

[DavidG]

Here's a bottle from another less-than-heralded but very good vintage: 1983. Overshadowed by the stellar '82s except in Margaux, there were a lot of '83s available for some time after release, at prices that seem downright criminal now.

• 1983 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (2/22/2009)
  This bottle spent its first decade in my dad's basement at temps in the 60s before finding its way to my temp controlled cellar. The fill is within 1/2" of the cork, which is wet and soft but comes out intact. The wine has a dark red core, lightening to rim. but with no bricking. Nose is shy at first, with some currant and earth, medium body, and a bit plain on the palate at first. As it warms up a little more fruit comes forward, but it takes a good hour to really start opening up. When it does, the nose starts showing cassis, dark cherries, and a nice complex mix of road tar, smoke, and forest floor. The wine spreads out on the palate, becoming medium to full bodied, with nice fruit and complexity following through from the nose. Balance is excellent, and finish shows persistent cassis and now darker fruits, smoke, road tar and forest floor with a little tannin still present. Still getting better after another hour with some additional sweet complexity starting to show up. Neither the color, nose nor the palate show any signs of the wine tiring out. This is excellent, and should continue to drink well for another 5 years if stored well.

[aimeedogdogdog]

Thanks for the notes, David.

I heard Gruaud Larose is such a wine that it only showed its true self after 20-25 years when in peak. A true marathon runner? Not much experience with this wine when it's mature.

I think I would bring some '83s to DC this year, probably Palmer and Lalande but I have to check the wine locker.

Werner

[stefan]

Gruaud Larose is one of the many very good '83s that we have drunk. Now we are down to only a couple of cases of them. Sigh.

stefan

[DavidG]

Werner, RP says this should be nearing the end of its life. Not sure when he last tasted it, but I don't agree. It should go strong for at least another 5 years, and after that who knows?

Stefan - I wish I still had cases of '83s. That was the first year I actually bought a whole case of something - the '83 Prieure Lichine, which is, appropriately, gone now. It was the first wine I bought with my father, who was also a budding wine enthusiast. I was visiting them in NJ and we took a drive to Scarsdale. He also picked up a case of '83 Gruaud on that trip, which was a bit rich for my blood. He hadn't even cracked the case yet when I inherited them. I've been enjoying them, and the fond memrories, over the past 15 years or so.