TN:Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tasting 1924-1969 in Germany
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:01 pm
This weekend, I attended an Old-Châteauneuf-du-Pape tasting in Bochum in Germany, together with 10 more Châteauneuf-du-Pape freaks (Michel Blanc, Jean-Marc Diffonty and Mark Fincham from Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Uwe Bende professionally organized the tasting, dinners and lunch in a very relaxed setting. Amazing how good most of the wines showed and many bottles with just below neck fill levels and just a few slightly cored bottles. Very interesting tasting.
Especially 1949 and 1967 vintages showed very well – followed by 1955. Cuvee du Vatican was the most consistent in high quality. Clos des Papes’s best vintage for me was the 1969. Several bottling from négociants showed very good.
***1947 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc, Cave du Val Clos "La Belle du Roy"
Big surprise as this wine was still very much alive – expressive nose and strongly flavored palate – a darned good (tannic) structure (a sign that some red grapes must haven been added) – subtle fresh layered.
****1924 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Albert Bichot "Cuvee de Moines"
Amazingly fresh red color - soft and silky on the palate with some truffle – well balanced and taste still young and vital
1926 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Grandes Serres, Henri Geniest
Very dark brownish color - prune and some tar - oxidative
1926 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Salavert Freres, Tete de Cuvee
More oxidative with a high acidity – not very pleasant
**1928 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, A. Masson Dubois
Good color – meaty nose – after 10 minutes opened – good complexity
1929 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Auguste Bessac
Light brownish color – pretty much dead – later nice nose with nuts and caramel
**1930 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Caves des Apotres
Sweet layered – spicy – slightly corked otherwise good
1933 Chateauneuf-du-Pape
deppd red color – simple wine lacking expression and flavors
1933 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Auguste Bessac, Monopole Bessac
Uninpressive with secondary flavors
***1937 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Salavert Freres, Tete de Cuvee
Strong expressive nose – elegant Pinot palate – good freshness and spicy finish
**1937 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Fortia
Medium light color – attacking nose – good concentration – short finish
1942 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, (Importation 1946)
Dark chocolate and prune – mahonie and tar – oxidative port like thick
1943 Chateauneuf-du-Pape – no name
light and claoudy colore – cognac – exotic fruit – atypical wine
**1945 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, A. Verda, Orange
Good freshness and spicy palate, missing some concentration
***1947 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vieux Telegraphe, Cuvee Special
Well balanced with subtle flavors and long finish – interesting wine
****1947 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Lucien Brunel (Les Cailloux)
More depth and good concentration – expressive and very tasty
***1949 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chanut Freres
A bit flat nose – long sweet sexy finish
***1949 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clos des Papes
Lacking some complexity, good concentration and nice sweet finish
****1949 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes
Impressive red color – tobacco, garriue and spices – well concentrated – very good
***1950 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Mommesin
Deep red color - dark tones, powerful, nuts and mocha – nice wine
1952 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vignoble de Boilauzun
Oxidative nose – dried fruit and dry finish – no freshness
****1952 Chateauneuf-du-Pape la Gardine (magnum)
Complex and concentrated palate – long finish with figs and tobacco – very good
**1953 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Barriere Freres, Selection
well balanced with a fresh finish – Burgundy style
****1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee du Vatican
Deep red color – expressive and rich palate – very vital, lush and hedonistic
***1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de la Gardine
Light color sweet and lush – spicy fruit tones – long finish
1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Cru de Garrigue
Oxidative nose but nice palate fading very fast
**1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Vieux Moulin, Henri Jourdan, Caves Reflets
A bit medicinal nose – truffle and tobacco – well structured and fresh finish - good
**1955 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Feyten Cuvee Reserve
Coffee and mocha – good complexity and finish – nice
1957 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Henri Jourdan, Caves Reflets
Oxidative with dried fruit - unimpressive
1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Hugues vins la Valette
Rich palate and subtle flavors – not complex but well drinkable
***1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Lapalus
Dark nose with chocolate and truffle – walnut and caramel – long finish –very nice
**1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Mont-Redon
Spicy and good (tannin) structure – fresh nice finish
**1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vermorel
Good intensity – flat mid palate but sexy and rather long finish
1961 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Cabrieres
High acidity and sharp tones – lacking expression – thin finish
***1961 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau des Fines Roches
Complex flavors palette – sweet onset – long complex finish
1961 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de Maucoil
Very deep brown dark colored - chocolate and tobacco - oxidative
**1964 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau la Nerte Grand Cru
Lush sweet onset – not complex but enjoyable spicy finish
***1964 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Jean Deydier "Les Clefs d'Or"
Well structured – more traditional, spicy and tannic with good freshness
***1965 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Clos des Papes
Expressive but not very complex, nice spicy flavors and rather high acidity
***1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Jean Pierre Brotte
Sweet nose, very spicy well balanced – not complex but very nice
1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Le Pere Caboche" Theophile Boisson
High acidity, lacking flavors, sharp and spicy finish
1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve du Vatican
Very deep brown reddish – petrol, tar and walnut - oxidative
**1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Mont Redon
Good structure with dark dried fruit – richly flavored palate a but dry finish
****1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieux Telegraphe
Very sweet onset – sexy palate very good concentration and long spicy finish
1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de Nalys
Slightly corked although still drinkable with a nice spiciness and licorice.
***1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cellier de Princes
Truffle nose – garrigue and nutty multiple layered, fresh and good concentration
1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Speciale Edouard Darmion, Paul Jean
Oxidative nose – chocolate, tar and mocha – atypical wine
****1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de Vatican
Very rich palate with creamy licorice – long finish – darned good wine
***1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de Fines Roches
Garigue nose, good concentration but dominating herbal – nice finish
1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chante le Vent, Marc Reynaud
Tannic and dry – spicy palate with truffle and cinnamon – dry finish
1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Cabanne" Armand Ferulla
Very sharp attacking – unimpressive
1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cellier des Princes
Thin and high acidity – lacking flavors and intensity
****1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Clos des Papes
Light color – very rich and expressive palate – complex and long finish - superb
Especially 1949 and 1967 vintages showed very well – followed by 1955. Cuvee du Vatican was the most consistent in high quality. Clos des Papes’s best vintage for me was the 1969. Several bottling from négociants showed very good.
***1947 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc, Cave du Val Clos "La Belle du Roy"
Big surprise as this wine was still very much alive – expressive nose and strongly flavored palate – a darned good (tannic) structure (a sign that some red grapes must haven been added) – subtle fresh layered.
****1924 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Albert Bichot "Cuvee de Moines"
Amazingly fresh red color - soft and silky on the palate with some truffle – well balanced and taste still young and vital
1926 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Grandes Serres, Henri Geniest
Very dark brownish color - prune and some tar - oxidative
1926 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Salavert Freres, Tete de Cuvee
More oxidative with a high acidity – not very pleasant
**1928 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, A. Masson Dubois
Good color – meaty nose – after 10 minutes opened – good complexity
1929 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Auguste Bessac
Light brownish color – pretty much dead – later nice nose with nuts and caramel
**1930 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Caves des Apotres
Sweet layered – spicy – slightly corked otherwise good
1933 Chateauneuf-du-Pape
deppd red color – simple wine lacking expression and flavors
1933 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Auguste Bessac, Monopole Bessac
Uninpressive with secondary flavors
***1937 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Salavert Freres, Tete de Cuvee
Strong expressive nose – elegant Pinot palate – good freshness and spicy finish
**1937 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Fortia
Medium light color – attacking nose – good concentration – short finish
1942 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, (Importation 1946)
Dark chocolate and prune – mahonie and tar – oxidative port like thick
1943 Chateauneuf-du-Pape – no name
light and claoudy colore – cognac – exotic fruit – atypical wine
**1945 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, A. Verda, Orange
Good freshness and spicy palate, missing some concentration
***1947 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vieux Telegraphe, Cuvee Special
Well balanced with subtle flavors and long finish – interesting wine
****1947 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Lucien Brunel (Les Cailloux)
More depth and good concentration – expressive and very tasty
***1949 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chanut Freres
A bit flat nose – long sweet sexy finish
***1949 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clos des Papes
Lacking some complexity, good concentration and nice sweet finish
****1949 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes
Impressive red color – tobacco, garriue and spices – well concentrated – very good
***1950 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Mommesin
Deep red color - dark tones, powerful, nuts and mocha – nice wine
1952 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vignoble de Boilauzun
Oxidative nose – dried fruit and dry finish – no freshness
****1952 Chateauneuf-du-Pape la Gardine (magnum)
Complex and concentrated palate – long finish with figs and tobacco – very good
**1953 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Barriere Freres, Selection
well balanced with a fresh finish – Burgundy style
****1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee du Vatican
Deep red color – expressive and rich palate – very vital, lush and hedonistic
***1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de la Gardine
Light color sweet and lush – spicy fruit tones – long finish
1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Cru de Garrigue
Oxidative nose but nice palate fading very fast
**1955 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Vieux Moulin, Henri Jourdan, Caves Reflets
A bit medicinal nose – truffle and tobacco – well structured and fresh finish - good
**1955 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Feyten Cuvee Reserve
Coffee and mocha – good complexity and finish – nice
1957 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Henri Jourdan, Caves Reflets
Oxidative with dried fruit - unimpressive
1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Hugues vins la Valette
Rich palate and subtle flavors – not complex but well drinkable
***1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Lapalus
Dark nose with chocolate and truffle – walnut and caramel – long finish –very nice
**1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Mont-Redon
Spicy and good (tannin) structure – fresh nice finish
**1959 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vermorel
Good intensity – flat mid palate but sexy and rather long finish
1961 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Cabrieres
High acidity and sharp tones – lacking expression – thin finish
***1961 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau des Fines Roches
Complex flavors palette – sweet onset – long complex finish
1961 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de Maucoil
Very deep brown dark colored - chocolate and tobacco - oxidative
**1964 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau la Nerte Grand Cru
Lush sweet onset – not complex but enjoyable spicy finish
***1964 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Jean Deydier "Les Clefs d'Or"
Well structured – more traditional, spicy and tannic with good freshness
***1965 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Clos des Papes
Expressive but not very complex, nice spicy flavors and rather high acidity
***1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Jean Pierre Brotte
Sweet nose, very spicy well balanced – not complex but very nice
1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Le Pere Caboche" Theophile Boisson
High acidity, lacking flavors, sharp and spicy finish
1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve du Vatican
Very deep brown reddish – petrol, tar and walnut - oxidative
**1966 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Mont Redon
Good structure with dark dried fruit – richly flavored palate a but dry finish
****1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieux Telegraphe
Very sweet onset – sexy palate very good concentration and long spicy finish
1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de Nalys
Slightly corked although still drinkable with a nice spiciness and licorice.
***1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cellier de Princes
Truffle nose – garrigue and nutty multiple layered, fresh and good concentration
1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Speciale Edouard Darmion, Paul Jean
Oxidative nose – chocolate, tar and mocha – atypical wine
****1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de Vatican
Very rich palate with creamy licorice – long finish – darned good wine
***1967 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de Fines Roches
Garigue nose, good concentration but dominating herbal – nice finish
1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chante le Vent, Marc Reynaud
Tannic and dry – spicy palate with truffle and cinnamon – dry finish
1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Cabanne" Armand Ferulla
Very sharp attacking – unimpressive
1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cellier des Princes
Thin and high acidity – lacking flavors and intensity
****1969 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Clos des Papes
Light color – very rich and expressive palate – complex and long finish - superb